Cougar

I suggest you check for an air leak in the exhaust on the bank 2 side.

It sounds like you may have a bad connection to power on the supply line to the flasher line. I assume the sound you are hearing is the flasher unit. Does one side of the blinkers work?

When you checked the fuses in the dash panel, did you check to see if power was getting to them? I assume it is the Warning lights you are referring to that are not working, correct? Fuse 5 in the Main panel supplies power to the Ignition relay. Check for power on the fuse and at the relay. Make sure the relay is working properly.

I think the power to the injectors is provided through the Main Relay, along with other engine circuits. They are all tied to a supply line from the relay. I suggest you look for a bad splice connection, possibly in the harness, for the two injectors having trouble. Also, you are correct in thinking the ECU turning on the injectors by completing the ground connection to them and power is supplied to them whenever the Main Relay is ON.

You're welcome for the help. Let us know what you find out with the test.

Your understanding of the battery indicator light is correct. Current has to pass through it to provide power to the exciter inside the alternator. The battery light should turn ON when the ignition is turned to ON, like the rest of the warning lights do. If that doesn't happen then follow the good advice given by FerGloyale by grounding the B/W wire going to the alternator. If the light still doesn't work then either the light is bad, power from the ignition isn't getting to the light, a blocking diode inside the cluster is bad, or there is a wiring problem on that circuit. The alternator provides a path to ground normally until it generates the field. Then there is a charge on the windings and the current stops flowing to ground and the light goes out, unless there is a problem with the alternator.

The ignition relay ties to connector B93, which is shown in the drawing of the bulkhead wire harness on page 119 (page 1310 of the PDF), in the wiring section of the physical manual. You can find information about the power to the ECU (depending on which model you have, MPFI or SPFI) on pages 22 and 30. Along with the power to the ECU, make sure that the grounds to the ECU are good and making connection to the body and engine. The details for the power supply routing starts on page 14 (Part 5) of the wiring section.

The trouble may be within the alternator. To see if this is the case disable the alternator by removing the small wire connector going to the alternator. Start the engine and see if the trouble has cleared. It id does then the alternator may have some bad diodes inside it and too much ripple voltage is occurring.

I suspect that the problem may be with the ACC contact position of the ignition switch. See if the rear wiper doesn't work while the problem is occurring. If that is bad also check the switch contacts. You may need to replace the switch.

This could be a warning that the battery is failing. I suggest you have it checked and it would also be a good idea to clean the battery connections using the proper cleaning brush. What matters is the battery post contact surfaces, not the outside clamp surfaces. They may not be an issue but by doing that you will know for sure that they are making good connection.

Check for a loose fusible link connection, it is a fairly common issue. They are located in a small plastic box mounted on the coolant reservoir.

If jumping power to the black ignition switch wire doesn't help solve the issue then the next check I would say is the Ignition Relay. It should be located under the dash, upper left side. Try tapping on it with a screw driver handle to see if that will help make contact. If that works, replace the relay. The trouble you described makes it seem like a relay issue. I don't know how you got near a twenty volt reading. If that is really true then you need to replace the alternator immediately.

Thanks for the heads-up on the controller Naru, the turbo model engine does have one. From the details given by the OP it seems there is a bad wire connection somewhere in the power circuit for the pump.

I agree with the previous poster. Make sure power is getting to the ignition while the problem is occurring. If power is okay then I would suspect the igniter.

If you are getting injector codes then a lack of fuel seems pretty logical. You should also check the compression.

There should be 12 volts getting to the pump when the key is first turned on but it only lasts a couple of seconds if the engine isn't running. The relay is the next thing to verify after the fuse. Then the power wire to the pump. The black/yel wire from the relay (after the relay contacts) turns to blk/red on the pump side so the connection may be between between the those two points if the relay is okay.

Whenever you supply power to an open circuit (due to a bad ground or open lamp) you will see full voltage at any point on that circuit if no current is flowing. It is best to test for power with the circuit connected up normally. Otherwise you may get confused about the real problem. From you stated about the problem I have to think the light switch is wired backwards somehow.

The trouble you are having is most likely located in the power distribution/fuse panel under the hood. I think fuse SBF-4 is the fuse that ties power to the ignition switch. Make sure all the fuses in the panel are getting power to them and no fuses are blown. Also make sure the nuts for the main fuse are snug tight.

The lamp is turned on by the ABS circuit making a ground connection to the lamp. See if the light goes out when you disconnect the ABS control module. If it doesn't check the 'CHECK CONNECTOR' for a grounding problem. If the lamp does go out then reconnect the module and disconnect the hydraulic unit and see if that makes go out. Check for voltage on pin 17 (grn/wht wire) going to the ABS control module. If voltage is real low on that lead then isolate that wire from the module and see if the module pin still has low voltage on it. If it does then the module is activating the light somehow. It may, or may not, necessarily mean the module is bad.

Thanks for the feedback. Glad you pinned down the trouble and you're welcome for the help. Rather than just following the wire, you might be able to find the trouble faster after seeing which light doesn't work after you get the good lights connected again. When you pin down the bad light disconnect the light socket and see if the trouble goes away doing that. If it doesn't then check the wiring near that area for a problem.

Ebay is a very good place to find the factory manuals and CD ROM data. Hopefully you haven't damaged the wiring by adding larger fuses. One trick you can use safely to help find the bad spot is to solder the connections of a spare taillight across the connections of a blown fuse and place it in the circuit having the problem. The resistance of the lamp will limit the amount of current available to the short to a safe level while you hunt for the problem. Some of the lights on the circuit may even light up slightly. The leg with the short on it will not be able to light up due to the short circuit. Once the connection to the short is removed the light in fuse panel will dim down and the other remaining lights in the circuit will glow slightly brighter. The light in the fuse panel is in series with the other lights.

Make sure the fuses under the hood and in the dash fuse panels are okay. The main relay and fuel pump relay are under the passenger side kick panel.

You may have an intermittent power connection. I suggest you check the power to the ignition system while the trouble is occurring.

This is a common problem and most of the time the trouble is due to the safety switch contacts being dirty. The type of switch depends on what transmission is used. Since you have a new switch on order that will most likely fix the issue. The starting relay may be in the relay panel next to the dash fuses.

The memory fuse along with the fuse for the dome light are located in the fuse panel under the hood.