Cougar

There is a switch mounted with the lock mechanism that controls the other door locks. The switch activates when the mechanism is moved either with the key or the remote system. It sounds like you may be able to clean the switch contacts and all will be fine. It could also be a broken wire in the door jam tied to that switch but hopefully that is not the case. You will have to get in the door and check things out.

It's pretty simple. I would use the same path that an existing wire harness uses and run along side of it. Hopefully you can find the problem with the original wire and repair it.

You should be able to check the resistance of the wire by putting the meter probes at each end of the wire with the sensor and ECU connections isolated. If you have more than a couple of ohms resistance then there is something wrong with the wire. I would suspect a bad termination first. You could stick a pin into the wire so you can put your probe on it for a connection to check each end of the wire. If there is a wire break and you can't find the problem you can run a new wire and cut each end of the old wire back enough so you can splice the end connections onto the new wire.

The component you show in the left side picture looks to be a diode from what I can tell. I'm not sure what the little box is but it may be the slip amplifier for the AC. It is not the blower motor resistors. The voltages you saw are most likely normal. It sounds like you were measuring the contacts of a switch or relay that closes to a ground connection when the system is on. The voltage will be across the load then when the circuit is functioning. When the control switch is open and the circuit is off, the voltage then appears across the open connection since the resistance is infinite there. Ohm's Law must prevail.

It's a poteniometer, or variable resistor, that changes resistance value with the air pressure it is supposed to monitor.

Yes, the coil is in the relay. A relay is just really a switch that is controlled by applying power to a control coil and it magnetically closes the switch. Usually they are used to turn on circuits that require a fairly high amount of current to power the load. Pretty simple stuff when you see how it works. You stated earlier that when you forced the relay closed that the compressor worked ok and also that it seemed to work with the switch also. This means all is ok with the power supply circuit, but if the compressor is not staying on when it should be then other things could be at fault.

If the relay is not working then you try swapping it with the other relay as was mentioned. If the other relay doesn't help then most likely there is no voltage getting to the relay coil to turn it on and you need to trace that wire down to see what the reason is.

Glad to hear it helped you out. Lots of good help.

The problem would have to be due to the blower motor is drawing too much current. There may be some shorted windings in it. Replacing the motor should fix that. You could have the current checked to verify the problem.

It is good you replaced the bad connector since it was causing problems. That may be why you have been replacing so many alternators. A bad connection there will cause less power to get to the battery for charging. You may also want to check for any voltage drop on the alternator output wire to the positive battery post using a voltmeter. There should be no more than around 0.1 volts (100 millivolts) on the lead. The reason the warning lights come on also when the alternator is having a problem is because they are in the power supply circuit to the exciter in the alternator so they light up when the alternator has a problem.

The reason the warning lights come on also is because they are in the exciter circuit for the alternator. Replacing the alternator, like Tim said, should take care of the problem. You may also want to check for any voltage drop on the alternator output wire to the positive battery post. There should be no more than around 0.1 volts (100 millivolts) on the lead.

I think the price is pretty fair though you could see if they will come down a little more. A rebuilt engine alone will run you about $2,500 to $3,000 dollars. There may be some warranty left on the engine also.

I don't think this problem can cause an error code in the ECU. I would check the connections to the sensor in the tank to see if you can find a problem there. If that is ok then I would check the resistance of the sensor with the connector removed to see how things looked before opening up the tank. You can find the access panels behind the rear seat under the carpet. The problem may also be in the wiring to the sensor or the gauge itself. Usually the sensor is the most common source of these types of problems.

There is a common relay for all the windows. I would check the passenger side motor and the wires to it through the door for a problem. The other problem sounds like a dirty switch or broken wire to the switch at the location of the switch that is not working.

Turning on the AC should set the idle up a little faster. Have you checked the TPS for dirty contacts?

I would have the alignment checked for the tire problem.

Thanks for the feedback Robsch.

If you don't hear any misfire you may try replacing the knock sensor. These can sometimes be too sensitive and cause a code error that is not really there. Changing the gas you use may help also.

I would check for a vacuum leak for the warm air problem. The air vents may be moving due to a lack of vacuum. To see if the overheating is caused by a head gasket problem I would get a block check done as soon as possible. If it is a leak you should get it fixed as soon as you can to prevent further damage. The car doesn't seem old enough to have a blockage in the radiator.

To Illified, You can have a block check done to verify that exhaust gases are getting into the coolant. It is a cheap test to have done and you will know the real story when it is done. To Binderbeast, I would keep the car and have it fixed since you like it. Once the problem is taken care of you shouldn't have any real problems with things except for the normal wear items. If you do have it fixed you may want to get the timing belts done also since they are going to be coming up fairly soon. You would save a little money over waiting to have them done later.

Perhaps checking the coolant temperature sensor for the ECU will help. These sensors can fail and make the car run rich. You should be able to check the resistance on the sensor with the engine hot and check the specs on it to see if it is bad. If that doesn't help then maybe the O2 sensor needs to be replaced. If it hasn't been replaced in a long while you may want to start with it. I averaged about 20 MPG with my '88 GL-10 Turbo AT model that I used to have.

It has been many years since I have done that. The way I remember it is there is a tab on the float that pushes on the needle valve. You just move the tab a little one way or the other to adjust the fuel level. Moving the tab away from the valve should give you more fuel in the bowl.

I take it that pulling all the other fuses doesn't change the light intensity, is that correct? If so, then hopefully pulling the fusible links will show up something. I would check the bulb for the CEL to see if it is burned out. If it is ok then there may be a problem with the ECU circuit to it. I have had to replace some IC's in them before to fix the problem. The circuit makes a ground connection to the bulb to turn it on. Check to see if voltage is getting to the bulb when the key is turned to on or run.

When I first read your post I thought you were correct but after thinking about it more I think the firing will be more advanced since the firing will be even sooner by moving the disty clockwise and the rotor turning CCW.

I don't have a manual for this sorry to say fellas. You stated that the ignition stays on after power is applied and the key is turned to on and then off so it sounds like a relay is latching on somehow. Have you tried pulling the ignition relay to see if that disconnects things. I would guess it will. I would also check to see if voltage is being backfed through the alternator by disconnecting it and then try your test again.