Cougar

You could try spraying some on there though I don't think it will will do much, but it may. Have you tried twisting it while pulling on it?

OPPS! Thanks Setright! What was I thinking! I'm sure I had a Loyale in mind when I said those things in my previous post. I need some more coffee.

Have you checked the fuel pressure? I wonder if the fuel pump is having a problem.

The definition for code 35 is the purge control solenoid or circuit. Have you checked for vacuum leaks or a intake manifold leak for this problem?

There is no button on the '99. Here is some instuctions I copied that should help you. People have stated that you need to turn the key quickly from "off" to the "on" position within 15 seconds. I think the 10th time needs to be with the key left 'on' but it may be 'off'. Hopefully the horn will honk then. If that doesn't work then disconnect the battery briefly, reconnect it and try again. Instuctions: Unlock all doors. Cycle key quickly but carefully 'off' to 'on' appr 10 times until the car honks one time. Do not turn the key far enough to start the car, just to the 'on' position so the dashboard lights up. When the horn honks, open and close the driver's door, press any remote button and that's it. Program another remote? Quickly open and close the driver's door again and push a button on the 2nd remote. That's it. When you're done, remove the key and the horn should honk 3 times. You're all set. Sometime it takes more than 10 on-offs to set program mode. Open/close the door, lock/unlock etc, wait 10 minutes, then try again.

The crank angle sensor is inside the distributor. The pickup loop may be bad. The air control valve connection is in front of the throttle body. Check for a bad connection or open coil. Edit: Disregard the above info. Wrong model car.

If the clicking you are hearing is coming from the starter solenoid on the starter then I would say the solenoid contacts need to be replaced or the motor windings or the brushes are open. The problem may be a bad cable or connection to the solenoid also. When you get the starter working and the engine does not start then see if the plugs are getting spark.

Way to go Krankitup. Good job. Your welcome for the help and thanks for the feedback.

If the problem is in the ignition area that supplies the voltage to the solenoid then yes, you could just have a switch supply voltage to the solenoid coil contact. If the problem is in the solenoid or the starter motor then you will have to deal with them.

I agree NorthWet. The low 40's at least, would be a number that I would like to see out the vent. I think if he checks another new car the numbers will be better.

I would get your own thermometer and see what it says your vent temperature is at. Then ask the dealer for a demo ride to compare another new car the same as yours. I think the air temperature should be slightly lower (I would guess in the high 40's). There is a outside air mix in my system so yours may be same. There may be problem with that.

Mwatt, The manuals cover more than one year for the general items. The series probably started in '96 for your model. My series of manuals may be slightly different but should be close at least. Manual section # 1. General Information 2. Engine 3. Engine Diagnostics 4. Transmission/Transaxle 5. Suspension/Steering/Driveline/Axle 6. Brakes 7. Body, Cab and Accessories 8. Restraints Section/HVAC/Wiring System I also have a Legacy Mechanism and Funtion Book You may find the other the other manuals you are missing on Ebay if you can wait for them to show up. If want to purchase some new ones then get in touch with SubieGal (Jamie) at www.allsubaru.com . She will give you a good discount over full new prices. She is great to deal with. The main ones to have I think are the engine and wiring manuals (2, 3, & 8) but it is nice to have the rest if needed.

Welcome to the forum. Lots of good friendly advice here. I don't think you would have any problem with the listed repairs though the exhaust system may require some special tools if the piping has to be made. You could let a shop that specializes in those repairs look things over and see what they will quote on it.

Factory manuals are more expensive and especially the manuals for the newer Subarus and want the whole set of 8. One thing I keep in mind is "you get what you pay for", usually anyways. I normally order a FSM for any car I own. I didn't at first on my '01 Outback due to the cost and with a new car you have the warranty. I ended up finding a new set of manuals on Ebay for less than half the new cost so I purchased them. The FSM can save you time and money in the long run I believe, even over other manuals due to their detail. To me, the FSM is the best way to go.

Glad you got it fixed. Now you can get on with the more important duties of a superhero.

Hopefully this will help you. It is a picture by one of the members here. http://main.experiencetherave.com:8...rs/DCP_2477.JPG

The sensor is not a switch. It is a thermistor, which changes resistance as its' temperature changes. It may have two wires going to it and don't confuse it with the sensor for the temperature gauge. That sensor should have one wire going to it. Hopefully changing the sensor will straighten things out. I can't see all the injectors leaking at once.

It sounds like there is an intermittent problem in the alternator to me, or the wiring to it.

Along with Josh's suggestions I would look at the relay for the AC, it may be intermittent. If you want to work on this yourself I would invest in a service manual for the car.

Another great Subaru moment, but don't try this at home.

Good show. Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the update.

I think the sensor is located on the engine. The sensor for the fan is a temperature switch, it is either open or closed. The coolant sensor is a thermistor and changes resistance as temperature changes.

The coolant sensor you are looking for is for the ECU, not the temp gauge. It lets the ECU know how warm the coolant is so it can adjust the fuel mixture as needed. The sensor may have two wires going to it. The sensor for the gauge has one wire to it and it won't trigger a code if it is bad.

I doubt the problem is going to just go away after time. You could just pull the power connection to the AC compressor and see what happens then. The dripping water seems to say the AC is working even if you don't have it on. Pulling the power connection to the compressor will stop that from happening. If the compressor is coming on when it shouldn't, then you need to find out what is causing this to happen. Perhaps the switch is flakey.

I would have a block check done to see if exhaust gases are getting into the coolant.