Cougar

Hopefully it is just sticky valves causing this to happen. There is a product called Auto-RX for transmissions that may help fix things up. Here is a link for you to check them out. http://auto-rx.net/

Fuse #11 may be the right one to pull to disable the pump so you can relieve the pressure.

Citrushark, Hang in there, we'll help you get it going. You stated that you checked for power getting to the injector with a Noid tester and you got it to flash. Your next check should be to check the resistance of the injector with the connector removed from it. It sounds like you will find an open connection. I think the normal resistance should be around 12 ohms if I remember correctly. Let us know what you find out. I would check for a used injector at a salvage yard or someone here may have one if you need it.

Hi Roy: I guess we're thinking in the same zone again. Since he stated that changing the timing made a big improvement I am thinking, as you probably are also, that a belt has slipped and by changing the timing it compensated for it some but the problem is still there. I would also want to do a driving test on the fuel pump to see how it reacts under load while the problem is happening. The pump may work fine without any real load on it. I wondered about the A/F ratio change also. I don't think there is a way of doing that.

To Starfire and Subyluvr2212: I think both of your problems are due to a dirty or bad lock switch. Please refer to my post #11. You will have to remove the drivers door panel to get at the switch. Simply remove the connector to the lock switch and see if the problem stops. If it does stop then try cleaning the switch or replace it. If it doesn't stop, then look at the driver's door lock switch as the problem. As far as I know, these are the only switches that can lock all the doors at once. If I am wrong, and the passenger doors can lock all the doors also, then those switches will need to be checked the same way. The driver's door is the most suspect since it is used the most.

Did you check the intake manifold gaskets for a leak yet? I am also thinking that the timing belts may not be quite right. You stated that adjusting the timing really helped but it didn't fix it entirely. One of the belts may be off the mark. Another possibility is the fuel pump may need to be changed.

A bad disty cap won't cause a error code. You should be able to look at the ECU a view the LED. Count the flashes to determine what codes are set. Two long flashes followed by a short one would be code 21.

Nice photos. I am wondering what would cause the valve to be damaged like that. Not seating correctly?

I would first look at the lock switch on the drivers door as the culprit. You may be able to disconnect the switch to prove it as the source of the problem. If that doesn't work, then the switch on the drivers door lock mechanism would be my next bet.

Sorry about your loss Leland. I sent you a Paypal donation to help out a little. I don't live close to you so I can't help out with any physical labor. If I was faced with digging a trench like what you mention I would either rent a backhoe to dig it myself, or try to work out a deal with a local equipment owner to have one dug.

Since the main ground lead was bad, it may be that the main starter lead is bad also. A corroded wire could cause this problem. You could try using a jumper cable to bypass the lead to see if that cures the problem.

Very nice reference Frag. P1136 is left front oxygen sensor circuit shorted.

Glad you got it fixed. Thanks for the feedback.

Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the feedback. I would imagine if you cut the wire open near the battery end you will find the wire is corroded inside.

Since changing The ECU made things clear up, for a short time at least, I would tend to think this problem may be due to a bad connection near the ECU. Your moving things around made things better for awhile at least.

You may need to replace the fuel pump.

I would check the voltage at the sensor to see what it is. Also remove the connector to the sensor and measure the resistance of it. You need to see if the problem is due to a bad sensor or the connection to it. The resistance of the sensor should change with the temperature. The resistance should may go down as the temps go higher. I'm not sure which way they go right now. The main thing is that the sensor lead(s) should not be grounded or shorted.

You can replace the diodes but I think you would be better off to replace the alternator with a rebuilt one. I would try to get one from Bosch if you can. They have a good warranty. I don't see how turning on the radio would make a difference unless there is a power connection problem somewhere.

I agree with Midwst. The voltage needs to less than 15.2 volts You will cook your battery and damage the alternator if the voltage is higher. There may be a connection problem to the alternator that is causing it to put full output. If the exciter wire is grounded that will cause the output to do that. Check the voltages at the alternator connections. They all should be at around the battery voltage. Running the output at full all the time will cause a premature failure. The internal regulator may be bad also.

The engine should have no trouble conducting the current but the main cable may be at fault. I need to know how the ground wiring is connected. It sounds to me that the main ground cable is damaged and there is another smaller cable to the chassis that is making the ground for the starter. Whatever the reason, the main ground path is not working as it should. Without a description of how things are run I can't help with this any further.

You need a digital voltmeter for one thing. It sounds like you may have some alternator whine going on. I would check the amount of AC voltage there is on the alternator output using the meter. Are you still having trouble with the dash gauges?

Your starter may have an internal short. Also check the main ground cable, it may be bad.

Before you spend a lot at the dealer I would try looking at Ebay for a replacement remote. I picked one up for my '01 model for $10 dollars. I don't think that the remotes will interchange with each other. You may have the Alpine system in your car.

My first thought is there is that the starter is partialy shorting to ground somehow. I would replace it if you have a spare one. Where is the main ground cable tied to? If the starter is ok then try replacing it.

It sounds like the main ground lead connection to the motor may be bad as you said Brian. If the lead that got fried ties to the body and there is another ground lead to the body from the battery then the main cable to the engine must be making a poor ground connection somehow. This would make the starter motor current try to travel through the body ground path wires which are not able to handle that much current. I doubt that this is your problem, but I have seen the starter lead short internally in the starter because the post connection had turned due to too much torque on the outside nut of the connection. This made the inside lead connection touch ground. Before trying to start up again check the ground connections with a ohmmeter and look for a problem. Be sure to disconnect the battery before you do this.