Cougar

The device you have may be a test probe though they usually have a regular light bulb in the handle. If it is a LED, then it shouldn't work in the reverse polarity position. Place the probe across the battery and reverse it to see if the light works both ways.The inhibit switch is under the car near the shifter area I think. You need to trace each wire connection while the trouble is happening to find the trouble spot. You should only have voltage on the small solenoid wire when trying to start the car. The voltage turns on the solenoid to run the starter. Something isn't right if you had voltage there and the key wasn't in the start position. The device you have may be a continuity tester. If there is a battery in it then it is not what you want, you need to get a voltage tester.

I think the yellow wire goes to the minus side and the other two go to the plus side. Your welcome for the help. Keep us posted.

You need to make sure they are all ok. Check for voltage to the + side of the coil. Also see if there are any codes from the ECU.

If you don't have a test light probe to check voltage with I would suggest you get one. Then you will know if you have voltage to the test point. We need to check voltages from the ignition switch. Your first check is to see if the ignition switch is ok. Place the probe on the start contact. Hopefully it is marked "ST" or something like that. The wire color may be Blk/Yel. If the probe shows you have voltage while the problem is occuring then you need to check the inhibit switch. My manual shows that the inhibit switch uses the colors black/white and black/yellow. Using your probe to check those connections should lead you to the trouble if you can catch it while it is happening and the wiring is the same.

I think the relay closest to the driver is the correct one. You may be able to match it to another relay of the four and swap it into the blower position to see what happens. Since the blower was turning on without the ignition I would guess the relay was sticking.

Good deal. Thanks for the feedback.

I have a manual for an '88 model and I'm not sure if things are the same. It shows that there is a white/yellow wire tied to the + side and a yellow wire to the - side. The capacitor is tied to the + side. The yellow wire goes to the tach and through the tach on to fuse #12. Have you checked the ECU for flashing codes. If so, what are they if you show some?

Glad to hear it. Thanks for the feedback and your welcome for the help. Drive on!

Check for voltage getting to the plus side of the coil. If you have no voltage then check the fusible links, one may be burned out. Also check to see if the horn works. This will mean fuse #5 is good.

Putting the Seafoam in the tank may take of things. If that doesn't do the trick then see if you can swap a plugwire with #2 to see if the problem moves with the wire.

You could check the water temperature using a themometer with the radiator cap removed to see how close readings are, as the car warms up from a cold start.

I think the source of the error is in the wiring too the gauge, caused by a voltage drop across the wiring. From what I have seen in the past there is about a 1 volt difference between what the battery voltage really is and what the gauge shows. If you want to prove that, you can measure the voltage at the meter connections with a seperate meter. The readings you gave are right where they should be for both static and charging levels.

Your welcome.

DVM stands for digital volt meter. These meters have a higher input impedence than most analog meters so they make more accurate readings, in some cases at least.

It shouldn't hurt the ECU. I would recommend you get a voltmeter if you don't have one as it will help find the problem area. You could use a test light probe also. Place the tester at a point you want to test and start tapping around suspected trouble areas with a screwdriver handle. You should be able to track the problem down that way.

I would have a shop do the job. It is against the law to vent the refridgerant to the atmosphere and they can reuse the refridgerant and put it back in the system. They can also clean out the old oil and vacuum out the system.

Here is an explination I found at one site: P0420 OBD Trouble Code Technical Description Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) What does that mean? Basically this means that the oxygen sensor downstream (after) the catalytic converter on bank 1 is detecting that the converter is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system. Symptoms You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms. Causes A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly Damaged exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe Retarded spark timing Possible Solutions The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Next step is to measure the voltage at the oxygen sensor on Bank 1 (the rear sensor, or the sensor after the converter). The voltage should be low and steady (~200mV, depends on the vehicle). If the voltage varies (e.g. 100mV to 600mV) then it's time to replace the catalytic converter. In fact, it would be a good idea to test each oxygen O2 sensor while you're at it. One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into. P0420 OBD Trouble Code Technical Description Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1) What does that mean? Basically this means that the oxygen sensor downstream (after) the catalytic converter on bank 1 is detecting that the converter is not working as efficiently as it should be (according to specs). It is part of the vehicle emissions system. Symptoms You will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms. Causes A code P0420 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: Leaded fuel was used where unleaded was called for An oxygen sensor is not reading (functioning) properly The engine coolant temperature sensor is not working properly Damaged exhaust manifold / catalytic converter / exhaust pipe Retarded spark timing Possible Solutions The simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back. Next step is to measure the voltage at the oxygen sensor on Bank 1 (the rear sensor, or the sensor after the converter). The voltage should be low and steady (~200mV, depends on the vehicle). If the voltage varies (e.g. 100mV to 600mV) then it's time to replace the catalytic converter. In fact, it would be a good idea to test each oxygen O2 sensor while you're at it. One thing to note is that many vehicle manufacturers offer a longer warranty on emissions-related parts. So if you have a newer car but it's out of it's bumper-to-bumper warranty, there still may be warranty on this type of problem. Many manufacturers give a five year, unlimited mileage warranty on these items. It's worth checking into.

The code explinations you show are correct. What they mean is the ECU is not seeing the correct signal it should normally see if things were ok. This could mean that the device itself is bad or the circuit wires to it have a problem. Using a DVM to test with will usually be all you need to use to find the culprit.

I wouldn't think the ECU is causing the trouble. Check the connection between the alternator output and the positive battery post. Also check the fusible links for a bad connection. How much fluctuation do you have? The problem could also be in the wiring to the meter. I would check the voltage with a DVM to verify the trouble area. As far as your injector goes, the way I understand the problem is, the ECU is not making the ground connection to it. The circuit is open ended. You made a ground connection manually and proved that because the injector worked when the return end was grounded.

To check out 'The Marketplace' move down the page to the 'Forum Jump' window and click on the check mark. Then select it from the list. DIN is a standard for the size of the component. 2 DIN means double the height.

Code 23 is airflow meter or circuit. It looks like Josh nailed this one.

Since the crank angle sensor is also in the distributor, the ECU will not see any pulses from it because the shaft in the disty is not turning. No pulses, no firing signal to the disty.

Thanks for the feedback an picture, and your welcome for the help. Another Soob is back on the road. Great call on the trouble Edrach.

I suggest you purchase a test light probe so you can see where voltage is getting to and not getting to. Since you have a new ground cable then the problem may be with the main positive cable between the battery and the starter. Try bypassing the cable with a jumper cable and see if that works. Another trick you can do to prove the starter circuit is to put a jumper lead on the small wire to the starter solenoid. Then touch the other end of the jumper to the positive battery post. If things are good, the starter will work and you then need to check the ignition switch circuit to the solenoid for a problem. If not, then the main lead is probably bad.

I haven't worked on the sunroof so I can't say this for sure but I would guess the problem may be due to a misadjusted cutout switch position.