Cougar

Good deal. With the light you should be able to track it down pretty fast.

That should fix this annoying problem. Glad you got it. Thanks for the update.

Hopefully you didn't break a timing belt. Since one belt ties to the distributor though the cam you should see if the rotor turns in the distributor while you crank it by removing the cap. If that is ok, then check for spark to the plugs. If the spark is ok then spray some starter fluid into the intake to see if it will try to start then. If you get some response, then there is a fuel problem. Let us know what you find out.

I agree with Snowman. Look for a loose or disconnected wire to the alternator. The reason the brake light will not turn off is because some of the warning lights are in series with the alternator exciter lead. If the alternator has trouble or, a bad connection in this case hopefully, then those warning lights will turn on.

I think Hooziewhatsit is correct on this also though there are some years that the code numbers swap meanings. You may not be out of the woods yet as far as the CEL light being on. In our area, if the CEL light doesn't turn on with the other warning lights when turning on the ignition, the test stops there.

You can't loose that much oil in that amount of time with bad rings. Try changing the PCV valve.

What about the CAS and CPS sensors? I assume you have also checked the wiring to the coil pack from the ECU.

Thanks for the verification about the cylinder numbers Dr. RX. I agree, swapping the coils would be the first thing to try and checking the sensors is next if that doesn't help. Problems with the ECU aren't common but there have been some trouble reports with them according to some posters here that cause this problem.

The dashes did have that option but it only changed the speed units. The rest of the gauges didn't have units. Just a general term like C or H. Another thing you could do is purchase a seperate gauge (maybe electronic) that reads the way you want it. It should be able to both conversions. Here is one offered on Ebay. http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-52mm-LED-7-colors-Water-Temp-C-F-Gauge-Meter_W0QQitemZ4575105896QQcategoryZ102561QQtcZphotoQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Hopefully the pin numbers will be the same on the ECU for your car. If they aren't, maybe you can match the wire colors on each end.

I would assume the sensor would be the same for both units. Perhaps getting a gauge that is sold overseas will give you what you want.

It sounds like there is a pretty high drain somehow. If you have a test light probe available you can put it in series with the suspected lines. If the light is bright, and everything is off, then you are on the correct line for the drain. You can check the alternator also. Sometimes the internal blocking diode shorts and will cause this kind of problem.

Hopefully this is due to a loose plugwire. You can swap plugs or wires if the problem persists and they will fit.

Hi Shawn, I think the rear cylinders are #'s 3 and 4 unless they are different from other models. There have been other theads with this same kind of problem and it appears that the ECU is at fault. You may want to try opening it up and inspect it for a bad connection problem. Here is one thread that refered to the same type of problem: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42239&page=1&pp=10

It looks like Roy got the info out of factory service manual #2, which covers the engine for the most part. Have fun on the trip and make some good memories for the kids. Hope the weather is good.

It seems to me that this problem must be happening due to something else being wrong with the system. You could not have run across a bad batch of controllers. I would really want to know what the problem is with the controller so that area of the circuit could be looked at.

Clean the connections with some contact cleaner or alcohol and be sure they are tight.

I wouldn't get a new sensor until you have made sure the wiring to it is ok first. I think the wiring from the MAF goes directly to the ECU but I'm not sure. Spend the parts money on a good service manual for the car. This will save you more money and time in the long run.

OBD II is a standard that appeared in '96 and newer cars. There is no connector for your car. You should check the connection also for CAS to see if that is a problem. The the canister you describe is the purge canister.

The device you spotted on the firewall sounds like it is a relay. I don't know if it is in the fuel pump circuit or not. You could ohm out the wire to the pump to see if it goes to it or not, but if I remember correctly you don't have a meter. I would recommend you get if you don't have one. Even a cheap one would be better than nothing. You do have a O2 sensor and if it has a problem it should set a code in the ECU. It would not cause this kind of problem though if it was bad.

The display of the CD player may have a connection to go to the dash lights so it can be dimmed. I would check the dimmer control and see if there is voltage getting to and out of the control by using a test light probe.

Good deal.

Can you verify that power is getting to both sides of the pump when the key is turned to ON or the START position using you test probe? If it is, we need to follow the ground lead to see where it goes. It will lead us to the area that needs to be checked. It will either be a relay, the FPCU, or a bad connection.

The devices you found would appear to be relays but I don't know what they are for. I would follow the advice from Surarunuts in post #12. He seems to know the location. The FP relay may be under the passenger seat as was mentioned earlier.

Welcome to the board. There is some good help here. For parts there is a section called The Market Place. Click on the window for the area selection and then click on the section.