Cougar

I don't think that there will be a problem with the 'brake' warning light turning on unless the 'charge' light has a connection problem or if there is an abnormal situation in the alternator and then both lights would be on.

You really have to decide for yourself I think. If it has all the options you want and things you like, that is good. Have you looked at other similar cars and compared prices? Since you have put a deposit on it it sounds like you have commited yourself, somewhat at least.

Welcome to the forum Georgiegirl. You have come to the right spot for your Soobie questions. Hopefully you will have lots of good driving with this car. It is hard to say what is causing the light to turn on but some common error codes are with the knock sensor and O2 sensor. There may just be a bad connection to one of the sensors but you don't need to guess. You can have the codes read for free at places like Autozone in the hopes they can sell you a part, though you are not required to purchase anything. Let us know what you find out.

Eric, Checking my wiring info the best I could do to find the location is that it is behind the left side of the dash. It looks like there are a number of other relays there also so it may be hard to tell which is which. The wiring colors for the coil are red/blk and grn/red. The wire to the motor is blk/red and to power red/yel so maybe you can follow the wires to the relay. Another thing that may help is to turn the blower on HIGH and tap on suspected relays with a screwdriver handle to see if the motor will come on then. You may get lucky finding it that way.

I'm not sure if this is still a problem or not since this is an older thread but after looking at some wiring diagrams I noticed there is a diode tied between the parking brake/fluid level and charging indicator lights. The diode is on the low side of each of the lights with the anode tied to the parking light side. I guess if the charge indicator light is not making contact or blown out then a path through the parking light may be made to the alternator circuit. Make sure the charge indicator light is working when you switch the key to ON to test the dash lights.

Welcome to the forum. Hopefully you have a owners manual you can refer to for thing like this. If not, I would suggest getting one.

No, there isn't a seperate fuse for the high setting though after looking at my manual for an '88 model it shows fuses 1 and 2 supply power to the circuit (I never noticed that before). The print shows that the switch makes a ground connection to run the motor so you should be able to just ground the high switch position to check the switch and the motor. If that doesn't work, then the wire to the motor has a bad connection somewhere.

You're welcome.

On the high setting the resistors are not used. They only are in the circuit for the lower speeds. Since the blower works then this would leave only the switch position or the wiring to the blower as the possible problems.

Thanks for the update.

Verrry interesting!

Check fuse #5 and the red fusible link.

The file is about 32MB. It took me about 30 minuntes to get it on my cable modem. It think the server end is restricted somewhat.

I guess I had downloaded this software in the past and forgot about it. Here is a link you can go to and get a trial package so maybe things will work ok then. Let me know if this works for you. http://www.rarlab.com/

That's a pretty good one Snowman. You're right on. I had no trouble opening the PDF files. It looks like the years covered are 1995-2000.

While I can't say this for sure but I don't think you hurt the engine. Being easy on it like you were was good to do. With the nice free offers from the members here you should be able to on the road again in short order.

You're welcome for the help. Keep us posted on the progress.

Thanks for the download. I will use this to help others here that want or need it.

Jstone, If you make a mistake or want to change your post anytime after sending it just click on the Edit button at the bottom of the post and you can change it.

Also check out Ebay. They have factory manuals for sale there at good fair prices compared to dealer prices. You may have to wait until a sale comes up for your model but it will show up in time.

I use the Blizzaks on our van in the winter. The tires are great. Since they are a pretty soft tire they will wear down fairly fast on dry roads compared to other tires. It is nice to not have to wear out studded tires on dry roads and still be ready for the snow when it falls.

You're welcome.

There are two models with the H6. One is the LL Bean and the other is the VDC. The LL Bean does not have the VDC drive.

I have never heard of this option. Are you sure this is true?

Since you sprayed starter fluid into the intake and that made the engine fire this means you have a fuel problem. The fact that your starter works well means the charging system and battery are most likely fine. There may be a problem with either of them (though I doubt it) but it is not causing the starting problem. There may be a problem with the plug wires also since the engine is running rough and it may be due to the wires age. Since the wires are over 100k miles old it would be good to replace those with new ones and I would get OEM ones from the parts department or order them from a Subaru parts discount website. It would be nice to know what each of the old plugs looked like as you removed them and check from signs of a problem. If they all looked about the same then things may be ok with the ignition wiring though they still should be changed due to age. Another problem may be with the fuel injector or the wiring to it. You may also have broken one of the timing belts and the engine is only running on one side. A compression check would sort that out.