Cougar

If the notch was a tooth off then than would change the timing and possibly cause the damage you have.

After looking at the Subaru troubleshooting guide for a MPFI unit and reading your test results here are some things to check: The guide says that red wire on pin 7 should have less than 10 volts on it with the key turned to ON. If the voltage is higher, then there is an open on the wire between there and the sensor. Pin 17 of the ECU should be a white wire coming from the CAS. What is the voltage there? If it is greater than 4 volts and the connection is ok then you need to relace the ECU.

The device you saw over the slotted disk is a photo optical sensor. As the slots pass through the light transmitter the receiver sees the light pules and they are counted. There is a set of reference slots that are larger than the smaller ones. The ECU keeps track of the sequence and fire the plugs at the appropriate times. Edit: I posted at the same time you made your last post. The valves should be ok. This is a non-interference engine. To Iluvdrt: See my post #4 in this same thread on how to check thinks if you need some help.

There should be some test connectors that you can tie together and they should make the pump run. They are usually green, or white. Not sure for your model. You can also tie a jumper lead to it and provide 12 volts directly to it for a test. If you don't have spark to the plugs that will make the ECU shut down the pump. The ECU needs to see the proper signals to fire the ignition. Be sure to check all the fuses and possibly fuse #5 powers the control circuit like the other models.

Since you replaced the alternator you may want to replace the battery also. They usually are replaced together, especially if the battery is older than 3 years old. This way there won't be a problem with the charging system for some time. The battery may last for some time longer but it has been degraded somewhat by overcharging it. You may end up with a problem when you don't expect it. Then again, it may go another couple of years. It is hard to say. If you do get a new battery and live in a area that has a cold winter then a battery that has a good CCA rating would be a good choice.

As the others have mentioned you don't have to worry about timing with the belts in your picture. The timing belts run the cams for the engine and are inside those black plastic covers behind the belts in your picture. The timing belts are supposed to be changed out every 60k miles. I would recommend you get a service manual for your vehicle since you are going to work on it. It will be as valuable to you as your tools are. Ebay is a good source for manuals and you can even get factory ones for a good price. I would try to get the complete set of 4 books for the car. Ebay has a set right now for an '86 which would be close enough for most things on your model. Here is a link for your convenience. If you got these for around $50 dollars it would be a good price. Think how far that money will go for a service shop repair job. Some places charge more than that for just a diagnosis. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1986-SUBARU-SERVICE-MANUAL-SET-COMPLETE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ6762QQitemZ8011242359QQrdZ1

To set the timing you need to loosen the the distributor clamp so you can move it to the correct timing as indicated with the timing marks. The idle speed may need to be below around 800 RPM and the vacuum advance line removed from the disty. Do you know how may degrees you need to set this to? I think the dial on the rear of the light allows you to see where the mark would be when you turn the dial to your timing setting. It has been too many years to remember for sure.

Some folks have cured the problem using Seafoam to remove carbon deposits in the cylinders. They rev then engine and suck up about half the container through a vacuum hose tied to the intake and the other half is poured into the tank.

The TPS should be behind the coil area and in front of the air cleaner.

Melted plugs? Wow! You do have a problem here. I can only guess there is a timing issue causing this. Are the plugs the correct heat range?

We're hoping for the best on this.

Your welcome. Glad you got it fixed ok.

If there was really that much gas mixed with the oil that would be incredible! Squirting some oil into each cylinder would be good if that is the case. Perhaps the injector is leaking.

If you liked the '99 Forester then you should really like the '03 or newer Forester models. Now they have the LL Bean Editions also if you really want to get fancy. The fact that the car stood up to the crash of a truck like that and no one got hurt is great. I like the Volvos also but from what I hear of the problems they can have I think the Forester will be more reliable and less expensive to maintain in the long run. They are still offering some buying incentives with low financing rates and some cash back for the new ones.

I agree with Zyewdall. This is the best way to troubleshoot it. My bet is the solenoid contacts are shorted in the starter.

Would you explain what you mean by a "blown out plug" and which one it was?

I would go with a CCR rebuilt engine as the others have stated also. You will have a good car with basiclly new engine and a warranty. At least give them a call and see what they have to say, or send them an email. You will have a car that will go another 100k miles plus. If you do get a rebuilt from them I would consider replacing the radiator also at the same time.

You could try cleaning the throttle position sensor. Also replace the fuel filter if it hasn't been changed. You may also want to check the fuel pressure.

Hopefully the problem is just do to the switch itself. If it is the switch I would think you could reset the unit by turning the cruise control off and back on. If that doesn't work then check the brake and clutch switches (if you have a MT). See if hitting the brake will cause the symtom you have. I would think that the unit shouldn't turn off the cruise power indicator. If those switches don't give you the right symptoms then the next choice may be the cruise control actuator in the engine compartment. The last choice is the cruise control module behind the dash.

If the plugs are firing as he stated in post #7 then this would mean the engine sensors are ok. The ECM will not allow them to fire unless it sees the proper signals from them. If the starter fluid doesn't produce any firing then the compression needs to be checked. The injectors may not be opening due to a problem in the ECM possibly. One poster here found out there was a bad ground to the injector circuit in the ECM. He was able to correct the problem and that fixed it. Using the starter fluid should show if the injectors are working or not. If there is a fuel problem then the starter fluid should make the engine fire up briefly.

I'm guessing that since the air pressure sensor is seeing more pressure then more gas is being added for the mixture. You may be stuck with what you got.

I guess pulling the valve cover will show the problem up. If it is a broken valve, there may be damage to the piston also.

Since you stated that there was spark getting to the plugs then the ignition is ok. Have you tried spraying some starter fluid into the intake to see if that helps. The injector may not be working or is this multipoint injection? You should also check the compression if the starter fluid doesn't work. There may be a broken timing belt.

If the sensor has one lead to it then it should be the correct one. One way to prove it is to disconnect the lead and look at the gauge. I think it will show cold if the wire is disconnected. A resistance reading will be of more help than a voltage reading while the engine is a normal temperature. Usually the manuals show a resistance specification for the sensor.

There should be a crank angle sensor in the bottom of the distributor. It tells the ECU where the position of the crank is. If this sensor isn't working then you will get a code like you have. Be sure fuse #5 is ok. If the horn works then it should be fine. If you have a test light available you can place the probe on the minus side of the coil and see if the light flashes while cranking the engine. If you see pulses then the plugs should be firing. If the light just stays lit then the sensor may need to be replaced or the ignitor is bad. Some people have had alternator problems that will cause the tach to jump like yours is.