Aldoat

OK folks, here is my info. Registered tonight, Order#2668. Registered my 1986 Brat. Listed club as Ultimate Subaru. Registered under Aldo Torres. More than likely I will not be able to attend but wanted to help the group meet it's goal of 25 for the tent. I will update if plans change and I can attend. Aldoat

Too dark and rainy out now to check so will look tomorrow. Will try to move my lines into view and maybe post a pic. And yes, you gotta luv previous owners:-\ .

That line is supposed to connect to a GREEN T-fitting just like the one pictured at the top of the pic. There are two of those. It connects to the mid port on the T and one of the cross ports is capped off. The other T fitting hase both cross ports connected to medium/large hoses and the mid port is connected to the small hose from the air cleaner Idle Compensator (valve on right side of air cleaner as you look at it from front of engine). Went outside and looked at my 86 EA81 Brat.

On my 86 EA81 Brat, the vac line that goes to an open port in the air cleaner is also connected to the Temp Vac switch. It is a 3 port switch threaded into the intake manifold and works acording to coolant temp. The top port is to the air cleaner, the second is to the EGR valve and the third (bottom) port is to the distributor. At least that is what my Haynes manual shows.

Thanks for the ideas on where to look. Checked exhaust flow at tailpipe...no different than normal. Checked air cleaner housing and noticed pulsing flow from drivers side ASV line with similar (but not as much) flow from passenger side. Flow was from ASV's to air cleaner. No plastic bits in carb or air cleaner. Possible ASV's going bad but not dead yet? Did a search and learned about blocking ASV pipes with a quarters. Just got done doing that and will see how it does. Since there was some flow from the exhaust to the air cleaner/carb, the sudden sluggishness might be due to having what amounts to a second EGR valve dumping exhaust into the fuel mix. Just my thoughts.

I have a 1986 Brat, EA81 w/Hitachi carb, 4spd D/R, accel coil, non-factory exhaust (2" from cat back). It has suddenly begun sounding like an old VW Beetle. Have looked at both intake and exhaust systems but can't find any leaks. Possibly carb throttle shaft? No real change in MPG but seems sluggish now (dragging 2 anchors instead of just one). What to look at?

Welcome to the board. Most of the people here are in the NW but there are some of us here east of the Mississippi. Great folks all. Again, welcome.

Carb kits are fine but a total rebuild involves more than just a kit. Rebushing the throttle shaft is normally part of a total rebuild. Hitachis are known for wear of the throttle shaft bushing, which in turn causes a major air/fuel imbalance. Have been in that situation before. Tried rebuilding at home several times with different kits, no luck. Sent carb off for total rebuild, installed it and car ran like it had just come off the assembly line.

If you can make a double pulley (for A/C) for an EA81 you've got another customer.

Just took a look at my 86 Brat. I have the same type struts from Monroe. Installed them myself over a year ago (and even followed instruction sheet!). The bolts on mine are shorter and there are no nuts below the bottom plate. On mine, the blue welded on nut is as pictured in your setup. The spacing distance between the spring perch and the bottom plate in your pic is about equal to mine.

The little 3/16 or 1/4 inch coolant lines that run under the carb from the heaterhose/waterpump pipe to the carb mount and then from the carb mount to thermostat housing end.

Thanks Tim but that doesn't answer whether it heats or cools? Would that air bleed still work if you just ran a hose direct from the pipe nipple/thermo switch to the thermo housing nipple without connecting the carb mounting flange nipples? Or am I missing something here (like maybe a screw in my brain pan)?

I have read confusing info on the Internet as to the function of the coolant lines that run from/through the EA81/82 intake manifold. Some statements say the lines are to cool the intake from engine heat, others say they are to warm the intake (for emmissions?). What is the general consensus of those on this Board with knowledge of these engines? Have been thinking of capping those small water lines. I imagine that the volume of flow thru those small lines has nothing to do with moving coolant from one head to the other (aren't the internal passages for that?). If they are to heat the intake then capping them should make the incoming air cooler. If they are to cool the intake, how effective can they be? I have already changed my thermo from 195 to 180 to lower temps and removed the splash shield from in front of the disty to increase air flow around the carb so that there isn't a dead spot where higher air temps could be trapped. So what do you all think? Aldoat

What time frame are you looking at?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=6783&item=2460399533

You can try these guys. You would have to ship your carb to FL. I used them 5 years ago to rebuild a Hitachi carb from an 81 Datsun 210 when I was living in Puerto Rico. Real high quality work. http://www.nationalcarburetor.com/

I just completed the XT6 Alternator conversion on my EA81 86 Brat. Thought I would list the differences in installation that I experienced as compared to the procedures in the USRM. 1. Took alternator to electrical shop to swap pulleys. Guy there said it took a bit to match a v-pulley to the alt shaft (Narrow shaft). Found a 2 piece pulley from an older Mitsubishi alternator used on a forklift that fit perfectly. 2. Took large plastic connector off XT6 alt by popping cover off end near alt and removed 10mm nut holding it to alt. Used insulator (taken from Hitachi alt) and placed on stud marked "B". This stud is the same size as the "B" connection on the Hitachi alt and lets you use the stock cable without having to change the connector. 3. Discovered my alternator mount was different than the one shown in the USRM. Instead of a mount with 2 ears as shown in the photos, mine was a solid mount that fit between the ears on the alternator. Pushed spacer on rear alternator ear in till it took up the gap between mount and alternator ear. Pushed stock bolt (M8?, about 6" long) thru front ear, mount, rear ear and finally threaded into stock nut/spark plug wire loom. 4. Did not have to change alternator belt. Stock one fit. Adjusted belt, tightened all bolts. Alternator pulley lined up perfectly with WP and Crank pulleys. 5. Started Brat. Voltmeter (dash) read right at 13.5-14v line right away instead of hovering at 12V until alt got warm. Turned on lights, blower, turn signal, dome light and radio, volts dropped only down to 12v. Am very happy I know this is rather long and pics would surely help. I will try to get some as soon as I can.

First off, let me start by apologizing for taking so long to post this. What with the Holidays and some family emrgencies, I totally forgot about it. Just found it again when reviewing my email account. From : Speedy Wheels Australia <speedywh@speedywheels.com.au> Sent : Wednesday, October 29, 2003 7:31 PM To : "Aldo Torres" <aldoat@hotmail.com> Subject : Desert Rat Hi Aldo, Thanks for your email. The cost of the 14x6.0 Desert Rat for your Brat is A$65.00 each. Unfortunately we don't have any freight arrangements in place to the US so you would need to source a freight quotation from your end. I can tell you that via seamail you would be looking at roughly A$90.00 per wheel with a transit time of roughly 6 weeks. Via airmail it's a whopping $170.00 per wheel!!! Given this seafreight is probably your best option. On 4 wheels I don't imagine that it would be cheap but for a larger order I'm sure that the cost would be sufficiently spread. I've had numerous enquiries from the States over the years for this wheel. Although Speedy USA don't carry steel wheels you may be able to convince them to bring in a shipment of this wheel if the numbers are right. Given that the cost of freight far outweighs the cost of the wheel itself it's worth a shot. Best regards, Luke Tonkin

Welcome to the board. You will find lots of good people here with tons of info. In my opinion, some folks here should be featured on The Discovery Channel "Monster Garage", they are that good fabricating mods. I am also in NJ, down in Englishtown. 86 Brat

7370 26033 Clutch Cable Assy 2D&Brat(MPV) 85&86

It would be GREATLY appreciated if personal disputes/conflicts were kept private and not aired as replies to a request for help. On my 86 Brat, the fuel pump is located in the rear next to the fuel tank.

While it may be true that coolant hose is available down to 1/4". how many places actually have it in stock? When in a crunch (like a split hose during some of the coldest temps in years) you use what is available.

Just did the same replacement on my 86 Brat. Got fuel line from NAPA. Works great.

Thanks GD. Was just wondering since it's been done with other makes. And that tranny being so long (which I forgot about), would make it more difficult.

Can an EA81 and a 4spd D/R transmission be pulled from an 86 Brat as one unit?