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anchoricex

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Everything posted by anchoricex

  1. That's weird that they wouldn't touch your camber bolt on your car. Anyways, I got scared of camber bolts. The moog camber bolts on the second reply of this thread are likely referring to replacement for OEM in the stock slotted hole location, that's not what I'm after. I have those bolts in my struts, but I need ADDITIONAL negative camber to bring my passenger side front and rear into spec. From what I've researched this necessitates aftermarket camber bolts that go into the bottom hole of the strut/knuckle bolt locations, but require very critical and precise installation or I'll risk them failing and losing control of the vehicle under load. Info taken from this thread: http://www.iwsti.com/forums/gd-suspension-handling-and-stiffening/133341-camber-bolt-faq-tutorial.html At this point I'm running slight positive camber on my passenger side wheels only which really bothers me, and I'm not sure if I should just order some aftermarket camber bolts and give it a shot. It sounds like such a fragile procedure. +I still don't know which ones to order lol
  2. Is there a specific size for these things or are they typically a pretty universal part?
  3. Hi all, have a lifted 99 outback wagon (4" lift) and I took it into firestone for the lifetime alignment. They were able to get it within spec for all four toes and the driver side camber, but passenger side camber was just out of spec and they recommended camber bolts. In an effort to save me some coin the tech suggested I buy/install my own camber bolts and bring it back in and utilize the lifetime alignment, otherwise I'd be spending over 200$ in parts/labor. I've heard it's dangerous to use aftermarket camber bolts if installed incorrectly. Would someone be so kind as to recommend me some camber bolts that I can order and offer any tips/advice on installing them SAFELY? Much appreciated.
  4. Hi all, my 99 Outback is pretty annoying. I have my girlfriends 99 outback to compare it to, and her steering is very stiff, returns to center, and is everything I'd want in my steering. Mines at 160k so it's probably got a lot of worn stuff going on in there. Alignment is in check, I'd like to take a weekend to replace out just about everything I should to get my steering feeling nice again. Last weekend I took it on a gravel road and the amount of clunky sounds and bump steer was a horrifying experience. Alignment is perfect btw. So far I've got inner tie rods and a transverse link bushings. Not so sure what the transverse link is but I've read forum posts saying the difference was night and day after changing it out. What else should I go for?
  5. I have a donor outback and two of my wheel bearings are out. Should I just swap knuckles and call it a day?
  6. do you have rubbing issues with fender liners with your hankooks? I threw the same set on my car with a lift and my fronts rub against the fender liners when I turn. Ripped the splash guards out and still having a miserable time ps those arms look insane. talented fabrication we have going on here!
  7. Awesome thank you for that diagram. Appreciate it everyone, happy wheelin!
  8. I like that idea thank you for that. I just went ahead and placed an order for an additional wheel/tire that I'll cycle through. By clockwise I'm assuming you mean if you're looking at the car from a birds eye view, front driver goes to front passenger, front passenger goes to rear passenger, etc
  9. I think I'm gonna pull the trigger. How often are you rotating front to back / side to side? Apologies if this is a dumb question I've honestly never been a good car owner about my tire rotations. I'll be driving this car every day also
  10. I'm going to be running a 215/75/15 mud terrain tire on my outback. I'm tossing around the idea of buying one more tire to have a spare since my donut will be rendered completely useless at this point, but I'm concerned about uneven tread wear if I happen to need to throw the spare on way down the line when the rest of the tires are worn. I'm assuming this is going to do some pretty hard damage to diffs and maybe the tranny. Would you recommend I still order one?
  11. Fair enough. Thank you for the info. Is lengthening the linkages the preferred method?
  12. you da real MVP! Thanks mate! How did you like those tires? Doesn't look like you're running them anymore?
  13. Hey there, sorry if I came acrossed as annoyingly impatient. I was only wondering if there was a forum for lifted subaru guys that gets frequented more then this sub-sub-forum on ultimatesubaru that would, if existed, would have an additional wealth of info on lifting. Anyways I do really really appreciate your info! I ended up going with the Kings because Rallitek actually doesn't carry springs for my Outback, and I've heard nothing but awesome things about the Kings. Just a little hard to get ahold of, AFAIK there's only one US dealer for King Springs that carries them for the year Outback I have (primitive) and they didn't have fronts in stock so I'm paying extra up the butt to have them air'ed to the US from AUS. What exactly needs to be adjusted with the shift linkage for the 5MT? Thanks in advance!
  14. I have a 1999 Subaru Outback wagon, I believe this is the "generation 2" wagon (see attachment) I'm doing new suspension all around, and I have KYB-GR2's on order and was looking to pair new springs with the new struts. Will Springs from a generation 3 outback wagon work on my car ? I believe this is the ~2000ish year Outbacks. Inquiring because I'd like to put the Rallitek Overload springs in my car: RalliTEK Rear Overload Springs 1998-2009 Outback / 3rd +4th gen Legacy - RalliTEK They say 1998-2009 but say Gen 3 & 4 only. Had to google to find out my car was a Gen 2 Outback.
  15. Hi there, first time lifting a car. Lifting my 1999 Outback with a 4" SJR lift kit. While the cars apart I'm going to be swapping out the stock tired suspension with KYB-GR2 shocks and Rallitek overload springs (standard front, .25" raised rear) and I was wondering what kinds of alignment woes I can anticipate ahead. 4" lifters, have you guys been able to get your alignment in no problem? Should Firestone be able to take care of this? Car will likely go on 215/75/15 Hankook Dynapro MT tires with Forester wheels, but I've been tossing around the idea of 235/75/15 tires if it'll fit without cutting. So if anyone knows if those tires will fit, any info is appreciated as well. Besides extending the steering shaft and having to have the exhaust redone, is there anything else I need? I also would like to throw in upgraded front/rear swaybars, and I'm assuming this shouldn't be problematic. Also, this forum seems pretty dead. I know lifting a subaru is kind of a niche thing but is there a more active forum for these types of questions that any of you frequent?
  16. Do you have a side view pic of your car with the Hankook 215/75/15 MT tires on them by any chance?
  17. What about King Springs with KYB struts? Is there a link for a set of four KYB struts?
  18. My 99 outback has a pretty saggy rear end. The only weight I've added to the rear is a 12" sub in a small enclosure and a 50-60lb hitch-mounted yakima holdup bike rack. Driving up to the pass this last weekend I heard my rear struts clunk... so I'm guessing my struts are tired as well. Looking to replace the struts this coming weekend, should I pick up a different set of springs to alleviate the sag while I'm at it? If so, what springs? I'm fixing to do a 4" SJR lift this fall/winter (kits sitting in my garage) and I know that you can throw this lift in with the stock struts/springs and get the alignment in spec. I'm concerned if I get different springs to alleviate the rear sag I'd have trouble getting the alignment to work when I throw in the lift later on.
  19. Are these kits still a thing? SJR seems to be the only one who's still keeping around for lifting subarus
  20. Could you link anything that shows bent lifts from SJR? This car will primarily be highway and occasional off the pavement just for fun, certainly won't be jumping the thing and certainly won't be trying to crawl over obscure rocks and stuff. From what I've gathered I can't find a single bent component online anywhere from SJR. I'm concerned that 215/75/15 Dynapro MT's won't clear the spring perch with my stock Outback suspension now, I'm wondering if I'm going to have to get Forester struts in order to run these tires with this lift. King Springs & Spacer don't do any lowering of the other components, unless there is a kit like the SJR one that comes with components to do this ? Curious how this route is more cost effective given the kit alone is 750$ for an EJ
  21. Was considering the SJR 4" Lift kit for my 1999 Legacy Outback and I was wondering if anyone who's used this kit has had to tinker with the camber. If so, did you guys use camber bolts or something else? Read someone used WRX control arms to help with camber but not sure about the rest of his lift and was wondering if this was a necessary expense.
  22. Yeah I figured replacing the starter wasn't a total loss at all (plus it was free, just took some of my time). I'll give the volt meter a shot tomorrow and I'll also spray some contact cleaner up in the keyhole. Thanks for the tip Has anyone ever dealt with the ignition before?
  23. Car; 1999 Outback 2.5l Manual Trans One quirk the car has is it won't turn over unless I wiggle the key in the ignition. Went ahead and replaced the starter and double checked all connections to starter/battery because it was warrantied and the issue persists. Battery is new. All research for these symptoms points towards ignition switch or lose ignition related wiring. Going to be discouraging if this is the ignition switch. All internet results yield that screwing with the ignition switch s-u-c-k-s. Anyone know what route to take? Also, on a completely unrelated note, when I was replacing my starter and had the airbox off, I noticed this harness just hanging out. Brand new to this car so I'm not sure what it's purpose is. Pic here: http://i.imgur.com/0tviqT6.jpg All help/information is greatly appreciated !
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