Bubonik

i've been searching around for a few days i saw something related to this, but now i can't find it :{ Car: 1990 Loyale SPFI push button 5-Speed i'm not even sure if it is loping here's the deal; start good, runs good until warm up then when you come to a stop, the tac starts to 'bounce' between about 750-1200 RPMs if i take it out of gear before i come to a full stop it will idle around 1200 if its in gear at a full stop, 9 times out of ten it will 'bounce' It even starts to 'bounce' if i put it in gear after being out of gear at a full stop. and i'm not sure if its related, but it takes a while to come down to 1000-ish when i come to a full stop I just finished a head gasket job about 2 weeks ago (surprisingly easy for never having done ANYTHING like that before) and this creeped up it was there before, but not as bad as this it is also getting warmer, so i wasn't sure if it is the temp outside or something i've done i'm in the proccess of cleaning up another IAV i have and will swap that out, but was wondering if you folk could think of anything else i should look at. thanks in advance !! Bubonik

5 bills here ??!! sounds alright to me 4WD to boot !! i have yet to see a decent (un-super-rusty) anything here for 5 bills i paid a G for my loyale kinda rusty (can only see through a few spots) 250K would do it again in a second !! worth every penny and more !! and parts are a decent price at Malahat or saltair (chemainus) if you want to travel that far i unfortunately don't know any good wheeling around here and i want to do some !! (as much as push-button will allow) anybody from around here know some ?? (sorry to hi-jack by the way)

does anyone know how these numbers translate to a canuk car ? mine says 0-3-6 low-mid-max where should it be sitting at idle ? mine is right around 3 at cruise and just below 1 at idle is this to low ? its much better than it was before the pump replacement !!

cool looks different .... but thats alright thanks alot

am i just dumb ?? is it gone ?? crashed ?? was looking for it and can't find it any idea when it'll be back ? or is it just me ??

so i hope 1/2 full isn't going to kill it to soon and this make me wonder other bearing things .... what is the average life span of a set of bearings ? barring bad axels, hubs, incorrect installation, etc and i had another question ...... more like a "could it be done?" would there be any way to install a grease nipple into the side of the nuckle ? would this be a bad idea ?

cool i'll do more heat checks when i get home on the to much grease thing, how much is to much ? does it expand into the empty space beside the spacer ? i packed the bearing pretty good (full, but not to full) but left about a 1/4 - 1/2 of the space empty in the open space around the spacer is that the wrong way to go about it ??

Just changed over my right side wheel bearings noise is gone !! yay !! gotta love the canadian tire "loan-a-tool" program free tool rental rocks !!! as this is the first morning driving with the new bearings i'm not sure what to expect how hot can i expect the hub to be getting after driving around ? i drove to work (only about a ten minute drive) and felt the hub (more exactly, the metal between the disk and the hub) to see how hot it was and it seemed warmer than before i fixed it not hot enough to burn or anything close to that just warmer (maybe it's just i'm tired, and its morning) after my drive home i'll have to compare it to the other side which i've done nothing to maybe its brake rub from the fact i had all that stuff off and just put it all back together last night, and it hasn't had time to set back into place ?? don't even know if its something i should worry about this board rocks, saved me hundreds !! thanks folks any opinions ???

thanks folks it has made noise since i got it (i think) but it ticked so bad when i got it you couldn't hear it :} when the pump was fixed you could hear it a little since our trip its gotten REALLY loud i've had bad CVs on other cars doesn't sound the same but i'll take a look anyway thanks i'll also have to take a look at the USRM and see if i can do it myself or if i should get my mechanic to do it (he's good with vehicles, but i don't think he's ever worked on a sube) thanks for the input !!

so the consesus is wheel bearing ?? i'm hoping i only have to do the one side right now ...... is that going to be ok ??

nope definetly gets quieter when you turn left a long left is nice the car is almost completely quiet should i do the one right away ? or can it survive until i can afford to both at the same time ??

Took my sube on the longest trip I or my car has ever taken 1200 Klicks total one way, 510 Klicks (350 miles??) over mountanous terain in about 7 hours of almost straight driving performed Excellently ! better than i ever expected !! only problem i had..... is what i believe to be a wheel bearing Definetly louder now than when we left grinding noise that gets louder as you go faster i think the castle nut is good and tight just checked it a few months ago .... as well as looked at the brakes a few months ago, and they seemed fine as well gets louder when you turn right quieter to gone when you turn left (noise is comming from the right side) kind of feels like a foot massage in the floor does this sound like a bearing ?? am i lucky to be alive ?? can i do one side at a time ?? if not, will it be ok until i can afford to do both sides ?? starting to get REALLY loud ..... man i love my sube !!! didn't think it was going to make it, for a 1,000 dollar car (700 US ??) but it ROCKED !!! thanks to everyone on the board who has gotten me parts and helped me out with how-tos and info you guys (and gals) are better then any shop i could go to !! and cheaper too !! thanks again and i'de like your opinions on what it is making the noise thanks

honestly, i have to agree 'sample' is hard to pass up.... :} but really it needs reproduce-able proven results not testimonials and pictures its easy to say lots of things, harder to PROVE them i would like to know if anyone can come up with this info sounds interesting but .......

Considering my engine is at 265,000 K (220,000 miles?) and could probably benefit from something like this -i've tried others, with little if any change- i'de be willing to pour it in and see what happens -hope it doesn't blow !!- i unfortunatley wouldn't be able to tear my engine apart to SEE and change but i could definetly give you my opinion on how it 'feels' gotta do the oil soon anyway !! also would be interested in some for my gearbox - gotta do that soon too !! let me know if anyone is interested - also depends on cost though ..... oh, and of course, i'm a canadjian :} so i don't even know if it's legal here ...... i'de happily take samples ........ ;P

oil pump. fixed my 'clack' right away :} the USRM has an excellent write-up on how to change it good luck !!

cool i was doing my belts yesterday and didn't realize i took the belts off with the driver cam down but the flywheel on the timming marks three so i just turned the driver cam to make it the correct way - up - just wanted to make sure i wasn't going to mess anyhting up by doing that i followed miles' write up had no problems just wanted to confirm 'cause the write up says nothing about that kind of stuff thanks folks !!

Reading Miles belt install info it implies that no matter where the driver cam was when you took off the belt as long as it is up, then down when you do the Pass. side that all is OK am i understanding this correctly ?? that would mean 'up' is always the same state no matter what ? is this true even if it was down or totally out when you started ??

yay !!! screw extractor kicks rump roast !!! thanks for building my confidence

crap ! i was putting on my new (used) oil pump and the head broke off the bolt when i was tightening it up the end of the broken peice is just flush with the block do you guys think a screw extractor thing will work ?? or am i going to have to drill and re-tap ?? i'de rather not re-tap if i can :{ but will do what i must !! thanks in advance for any input

i cleared the codes last night and started it up again and got no codes but it also didn't do anything funny i will take it for a small drive around the neighborhood when i get home and see if i can get more codes to come up i'll post what codes i get later thanks again for everyones help

it kind of a missing stuttering kind of feeling when it starts it doesn't seem to get any better no matter what i do to the gas i can stop and it will get a bit better but as soon as i give it gas it starts up again along with it comes a clanky noise and a smell neither of which are there when it first runs runs ok for the first little bit seems to do all this when it gets warm

starts not bad runs --alright -- until it warms than it starts to go haywire how much for temp sensor ??

ok i finally figured something out i was totally retarded in the code department and couldn't get anything i got it to work ! YAY ! i got : 11 - crank angle sensor 21 - coolant temp sensor 24 - air control valve so finally i have some real information to present to the wonderful people who try to help me out and it makes things much more obvious or so i hope can i assume i need to replace my distributor ? it just recently got new cap-rotor-wires in hopes to fix the funniness only to have it slowly get worse thanks again for the input you people are keeping my car alive :}

damn good idea !!! 125 used from wreckers do-able ... and i think i'm going to have to go down to napa and be a pain in the rump roast no one is of help when i'm on the phone any idea on engine size for the ford ? thats the questions that keeps comming up from all the parts stores

as an after thought, would a fuel pressure regulator do something like this ? when i had my little bronco the pressure reg died and the thing ran very much like this thing is running right now do they ever go bad on subes ? is it something i should look at ??