sregor13

All this technical info is making my head spin. All i can say is either put in EA82T or a EJ22. That simple. I dont know what kind of Gas mIleage you will get but you will save hundreds on bypassing all the complications of trying to convert yours over to Turbo.

I just put the engine back in my Wagon after replacing the Clutch for the Second time in 6 Months and I am unable to Start the Car. The Car acts like it might want to start. It will crank and even slightly backfire. But it wont start. I tried shooting a bunch of SF into the Carb to prime it but still no go. Shoots a puff of white smoke out. You can smell gas when cranking. So since there is just one of me what kind of troubleshooting can I do? I tried propping open the Carb with a wrench to make sure it was getting air. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks

If you do the timing belts then you should change all the Seals at the same time. It took me about 12 hours to do the timing belts and all the Seals. If the Car is rust free then it will be a good investment. I would have my concerns about the Tranny, but even then I would get the car.

Torque bind doesn't always take place in the rear end. It sometimes refers to when the Center Differential binds. Nonetheless, it shouldnt play a role unless the car is moving. Could it be related to your Power steering pump? How does it feel when the car is off?

I would take Josh's advice on this one. I run without them on my GL and Loyale but on anything to do with the EJ I would take the advice of Legacy777 as the final word. Most of his posts are rooted in experience.

That would be great. My email address is sregor13@gmail.com. Email me your address if you can and I will swing by. Thanks

I had a friend helping with my Clutch. He has not been seen for several weeks so I dropped the engine back in and of course all the Tubes and such are not labeled. I think I got most of them but I have a couple extra's. I would appreciate some PIX of a running 85 Subaru Engine. I tmight help me get this project finished. Otherwise I could send some Pix to someone who thinks they could Identify them and there correct home. Thanks

When you say re-weld the frame rails what exactly does that mean? Can you give just alittle more detail on the welding process becasue i dont weld and would have to explain it to my welder friend. Thanks

Where at in Chile are you? My Brother lives in Coyhaique and happens to be here in the US for the next week. Maybe he can bring what you need and then ship it once he is in Chile. Not sure what you are looking for. I think I might be able to figure it out. THanks

No one was hurt. Although new babies and broken cars = stress. Thanks to USMB I got cars running and all is well. (Mostly) I did find the Pins and kncked them out. There are also bolts on the Hub itself that need to be removed. Huge Bolts I might add ( Breaker Bar very handy) So now I will be slapping it back together and moving forward. Thanks for the Help. I do think this car would run fine without the rear diff and transaxles BTW. It seems that the HUBS are simply attached to the rear suspension. I imagine Josh ( Legacy777 ) will know the full truth about that conversion.

To make it more clear. This car will never run again. I need only the tires on there. I have the whole rear crossmember dropped. I have the Differential and the axles lying on the ground. About two days after my duaghter was born the U-Joint on this car broke and the driveline fell on the ground and proceeded to snap. The transmission case is cracked severely and is FUBAR. Alll I need is the back wheel which it seems that I should be able to disconnect those axles. Then I can lift it in there and bolt it up to move the car to the Junk Yard. aka my Yard. So I know have the back plate of the diff removed. Do I have to cut out those axles?

Well it is a brand new clutch. Sounds like it might be ruined then huh? The tension seems to be there only when the clutch is loosened.

We just pulled the Fuel Tank out of my 90 Legacy. Now I need to put the rear end back together just enough to move the car. I want to remove the rear diff to make it easier ( lighter) also the driveline was snapped in half so i took that out of the picture. So I have the differential unbolted but I dont know how to remove the Axles. Can someone tell me how? Thanks

Pull the enigine on my GL becasue the Clutch would not engage. There was a clip missing on the Throwout Bearing retainer and the pressure plate is bent inward. When you loosen the bolts the Pressure Plate prongs return to there proper position. However when you go to tork down the bolts they bend back in. Anyone know why this might be happening? Thanks

Is the Power Booster pen like Dielectric Grease or something?

First check and make sure that all your tires are the same brand and same Manufacturer whathaveyou, and check that the tire pressure is identical on all, along with the tread. Once you have ruled out Tires as the culprit go to Fliuds. Inspect the AT Fluid and change if needed, even if it is not needed you should change it as a troubleshooting method. Do a good flush. Use 8.8 Quarts of Dexron-II ATF for the Automatic Transmission. ] I would also do the Differentials/Axels. For the Front Axel and AT Differential use 1.3 Quarts of SAE 80W-90 API GL-5. For the rear diff use .8 Quarts of SAE 75W-90 API GL-5. Once done with that get your car up to operating temp and drive in 5 Sharp Circles at low speed. Then let your car cool down for a minute and repeat the 5 Circles in the opposite direction. Once done with that put your car in first and repeat the Sharp turns just like mentioned above. Drive you car for ahwile to see if the bucking and binding is still happening. If so then you will need to replace the Transfer Clutch set. Repost after you check the tires and change the Fluids. If you are still having problems I can give you more info on the Clutch Set. If you take it to a dealership then you are looking at over a thousand (or very close to$1000. ) Also another board memeber left a thread about a S.O.A. Dealer down in Utah doing something in the rear case like replacing the Aluminum with Steel. Do a search for Torque Bind to read more about this subject if you want. You might be able to find this guys info about the 90-96 Subaru's having a problematic rear end issue. I dont know much about that one. Good luck. Thanks

Maybe throw down on one of those Japanese Take-out engines. I think there about $800. They have like 30,000 miles on them or something like that. I guess they have really strict emissions standards over there and so they have to pull them whether their bad or not. Might be worth a shot.;

Thats what I thought. I looked at the Diagram, but was reading him say adding "another" relay. Yea, thanks Cougar for all your expertise. I have learned alot on this thread. Although I have yet to come find the solution. On thing I did notice is the White wire is crimped into another white wire. I does not look OEM becasue it had Electrical Tape. Does this sound right to you? Thanks

Where is the original relay located? What color wire goes in and out of it? Or perhaps you can descibe the relay. I guess what I am wondering is do you leave the original relay in place? Thanks

Use Crutchfield if you can, they will send you the Wiring Harness and Deck adapter for free. I strongly recommend that you do not bypass the Wiring Harness. This is a must in my opinion. If you go without it you are asking for trouble. You might be able to get a deck to fit that Crutchfield or Circuit City says wont fit. Be Careful if you do, sometimes the deck seems to fit fine but the way it rests in the back my put the heatsink right up against 20 year old wires. Eventually it may melt through a wire and cause a fire or fry your entire wiring harness right through the Combination Switch. Sound like extreme paranoia? I will just say that I speak from hands-on experience. As far as Speakers go, I would just consider getting some components and flush mounting the tweeter somewhere else on the door. I dont know where the Front Speakers are on the 84 Wagon but I would go for a 4 inch or 5&1/4" Component up Front. There isnt much room for play behind the door panel so make sure you window is rolled completely down while doing you install. You should be able to use a adapter plate and a riser to get one in there. The directional music up against the seat will be greatly improved by the seperate tweeter. Focus your efforts on the rear. On a couple of my older Wagons I have removed the tailgateand drilled holes right through the roof. This would be in the crease where your tailgate normally is. The I stuck bolts through there, drilled holes in some 6x9 Boxes and bolted them right in with some washers. I just added some Aqaurium Sealant on the top side and put the tailgate back on. It covers the holes completely. (The wierd thing is that on my Legacy there was already some threaded holes under the trim right where I needed to bolt on the speakers. What the &^54 are those for) Anyhow, another thing to do in a Wagon is to build a Sub Box and make it the width between your wheel wells. Then build two more boxes to bolt onto your Sub Box that you can put some 6 & 1/2's or 6x9's in there. It can all be one box but you need the Subs airspace to be different than the Component or Coaxial Full Range Speakers. So just aim to have those pointed directly at your roof and just above the top of the back seat. You can angle them a little toward the front but not to much if at all. That way the Folks in the back Seat dont get blarred becasue it is so close to the their head. Both of those options result in a lot of lost space. Another idea I have never tried is to put them on the rear pillar. Like maybe build a box for some 5x7's or something. I have seen a cuople of those 84's with some sort of Pro looking speaker mod on the front door. I wouldnt be suprised if something existed on the Market for your needs. Good Luck.

There is a black and yellow wire on the back side of the ignition switch. This runs to to the Inhibit switch which I found under the hood by the transmission on my 90 Loyale. Upon exiting the Inhibit switch it becomes a black and white wire. When I was trying to fix my intermittent starting problems I first bypassed the Inhibit Switch. I did this by cutting the black/yellow and black/white wires and jumpering them together. I thought this fixed the problem. Alas, a few weeks later I started having the same problems. So I tested the Voltage on the Black/white wire and it was in fact supplying 12V to the Solenoid. However since the problem was intermittent I dont know if it always did. Then I decided to install a pushbutton Starter Switch. All I did was ran a known to be good 12V Power lead into one side of the switch and ran a wire directly to the back of the starter. At first I kept the black/white wire in the line-up. After a week or two, the same problem returned. I then removed the Black/white wire altogether and am just relying on the button. So when I turn the key to the Start position and push the button it starts everytime. The only thing I can think is that the Black White wire is slightly grounding out or it is getting old? So far the problem has not returned, but when it does I intend to test the Voltage and all that Jazz to root out the gremlin from its nest. The other thing to mention is that the only other thing in the Starter Line-up is a Fusible link. It is possible that the Fusible link is going bad or is loose on yours. It is Fusible Link 4 (Black in Color). There should be a white wire leaving that link that goes to your Ignition Switch. i would test the Voltage of that wire the next time the Starting System acts squirelly, along with the Black/yellow & Black/white wires. That way you can determine where the Problem lies. I also forget to mention that I first tried a differnt Ignition Switch and a different Starter. Both provided only temporary relief from my woes. So I guess if I had to do it all over again I would carry a Multi-meter in my car along with a log sheet for troubleshooting. However, I must say the push button is intended only as a temporary solution but may in fact become a permanent fix. I guess to finish I should mention that some have recommended that the Ignition Switch plate may be loose on the backside. It is a real dinky little scrw that holds it in place and may have become loose or otherwise out of place. BTW- your daughter;s 86 has the same linup as what I described. As far as wiring goes. (Except I dont know if it is Fusible Link 4) but it will be black and it will have a white wire exiting) So I hope this info has helped you because it has only disturbed me. In the end I suppose it might just be your solenoid. But I guess the best advice I have for you is to remove the Black/white wire from the Spade Connector and attach a wire of your own. Turn the Key to Start and touch the wire (in some kind of safe manner) to your positive terminal on your battery. If it starts 20 out 20 times with a direct 12V lead then I would focuse on the above mentioned info. if not then I would look at the solenoid as a prime suspect.

92 was a reat year for Subaru. Congratulations and welcome!

Whats your elevation?

If you want a great PDF for troubleshooting the Air Suspension Email me at sregor13@gmail.com and I will send it to you. It is awesome. Thanks

Possibly a bent release fork? Or maybe worn detent balls. I suppose have you tried to adjust the Cable?