sregor13

I love the OEM Subaru Cargo bin. Took about 15 minutes to install. Looks great and adds a tons of storage. A buddy of mine who is 6'11" tall actually drives an Impreza. He has plenty of room for short trips. The issue for both of us is that after 600-700 miles the Car seems to shrink. The dealer in Salt Lake wanted the same amount for a used 2007 Impreza as the new 2010 model. I wonder why. What concessions were made to the newer models, that would drop the price 2-3 grand? The Impreza rules for parking in Denver. The car is so small that it can parallel park like nobody's business. A concern I have had, after getting in a head on collision, is the safety. Isn't the Legacy/Outback safer than the Impreza? If you have kids that is something to consider. Side airbags could be a real life saver.

That I dont know but will find out. He said it worked at first and now I think it goes into 5th but makes a horrible grinding noise. I will verify once he calls back. Thanks

Crutchfield. Just enter your cars info and select a Head unit for your car and note the part number in the shopping cart for the wiring harness. Then enter the year of the car you are getting a Factory Head unit from. Compare part numbers and your in. My two cents is that buying an aftermarket for the 96 is the way to go. I like the Sony's with the AUX in and or USB in. I takes about 30 minutes to install. Then you have options you know.

Is it really a transmission in a manual? Also we don't have Junkyards here. Does anyone have one available? Thanks

I have a 2007 Impreza Wagon 2.5i. It is way small if you are used to a Wagon (Legacy or Outback) You will miss the size, especially if you have passengers. In the rear you can have passengers if they are between the age of 0-7. A normal adult would fit but any kind of travel is a no-go. If the sedan is a 2.5 then I think 14,000 is to much for sure. If it has had the 30,000 mile service then that costs about $800. So make sure that has been done as it is pretty comprehensive. I would go no higher than 13,000, unless it is magical or has a Sunroof, Steering Wheel Audio Controls, Sat Radio and a high end stereo system. With that said if you are set on an Impreza then I like the 07 better then the 08,09 etc. However those should have the Sat Radio Antenna pre-installed (I think) mine did not. Also they dropped down in price in 08 I think. They started to look kind of like GEO Metro though. I also think they cut other corners. Keep in mind it is real small, not very powerful. My 96 feels much stronger. Not sure why but that's how it feels. My check engine light comes on regularly and the seat belt chime goes off even if you are in park in your driveway. Those two things are very annoying. I can disable the Seat Belt chime but I don't like to do that. I would mind it if it went off only when the car was in motion. When the Check Engine light is on the Criuse Control is disabled. Easy to reset by unhooking the Battery for about 5 Minutes. But once I do that the Seat Belt Chime starts up again. Its like a Catch 22 of BS. My buddy got a 04 Outback with 50,000 for about 14,000 cash. It a much more comfortable ride with heated Seats, plenty of room, and even Map Light up above. The cupdolder and center console is remarkable. I would not say the same for the Impreza. Its better to have one of those suits from Dune when traveling. In closing you feel every crack every rock and every little ridge on the road with those low profile 17" wheels. I enjoy my 86 GL much better for that kind of thing. So I gave the 07 to the nanny to drive. She was driving a 94 Legacy LS and really enjoyed it much more. The Impreza looks great and makes the driver look great but I would recommend a used Legacy for sure, unless you are just planning on driving in town by yourself and you are under 5'8" tall and weigh less than 165. Oh and did I mention it was small. That's my honest opinion but others may not agree.

A friend of mine lost 5th in his 99 Forester L. He was told he needed a new Transmission. So I think think they mean a new transfer case or something. Anyways, do you guys think a new Clutch would solve the problem? Thanks, g

Yes it is possible. We were able to pick up other people XM Radios. We had 2001 International 2-Ton. It had just a radio and no CD PLayer. I think we picked it up other vehicles FM Broadcast because we had a big style antenna you see on semi's. Better gain. As far as cell phones gp, most Handsfree Cell phone solution reqiure either wired or a Blue Tooth Connection. Bluetooth is 802.11 signal and I dont think anyone could pick it up a listen to calls. I am pretty sure you can add a WIRED connection to your Subaru with the Product made by PAC. This is a good solution for the Ipod. other than that I use the Monster Ipod adapter. It charges your Ipod and sends out the FM signal. Had pretty good results with it.

Something that makes a lot of noise out here in Wyoming during the Cold Months is the AC Compressor. It freezes up or something and makes a very distinct noise when you start the car. you may have already figured out the problem but wanted to mention that for future reference.

I pulled off the Rubber Boot and the plate appeared to be closing just fine. Then I cleaned it out as much as I could. Just to make sure it wasnt catching. Then I started it and the idle seemed normal. I drove it down the road and the idle seemed to find it's way back up. I changed the oil and starred at it for a good long time. Seems to be running okay but the CEL threw on after about 5 Miles. The air sounds like it is coming from below that throttle plate. I have checked everything and I can't find any place where it might be getting in. Perhaps the Gasket on the Throttle plate assembly? I dont know. But it does seem to idling fine at the moment.

In addition to checking the alternator and battery. Check all the wires that are on the Harness that plugs into the Alternator. When my wife was 6 Months pregnant our Legacy broke down. Corrosion on those wires had caused the car to outright die. It was about 10 Degrees outside and I had no tools. Thanks to her Makeup bag and a roll of black tape we got down the road. Check all the ground connections for corrosion. Make sure the battery terminals are not corroded. Might be a good time to replace them. Seems like every Subaru I have has had a problem keeping a good connection resulting in the battery going dead. Most Auto shops can test the alternator. I am not sure the test is all inclusive though. I have had alternators test good but once I put them back on the car the Voltage Regulator in them goes wacky. So if there is an intermittent problem with the internal Votage regulator, the test may not show it. Either that or the guys at my Auto Parts store don't know how to run the machine. I bought a Black and Decker battery charger at Wal-Mart that does battery desulfation and Alternator test. B&D bought Vector which were the only cheap battery desulfators I could find. Between that feature and all of its diagnostic features it paid for itself in a matter of days. Good luck.

Correction, when I plug the tube or the hole on the IAC it does drop the idle. Also if I unplug the MAF Sensor it also drops the idle. I have changed out the IAC and the mass air flow sensor. Still the same. Super high idle. My hands are covered in dirt and grime and we are having a great time working on this. Just firing up the Bar-bq and we are going to really get into this. Thanks,g

Aside from earlier suggestions of a FM modulator or whathaveya, Crutchfeild would be thew place to check. "PAC" would be the company. Just search for PAC Auxillary Subaru. Thanks

I didn't see this in the Article from Endwrench but another manual we have instructed the the #1 Cylinder be at Top Dead Center before aligning the Cam Sprockets and all that. Also what happpens when you turn the key? Anything at all?

Okay put the timing belt on again and made sure that it was just right. Still the Car idles really high, like its redlined! Anyway tried the IAC test as suggested. The idle didn't go any lower and the car didnt stall. So air must be getting in elswhere. Or could it be the Crank angle sensor? I replaced it before becasue the car wouldn't start. Maybe its not right. Also I ordered a ODB2 Scanner and it should be here in 7-10 Days. Problem is that I need the car running sooner. Any ideas? Thanks

Also the Vaccum lines and all look good except the Cannister that has all the charcoal stuff in it is a little brocken. The IAC is connected but I am not sure if it works. I guess the surging was something that happened after my friend adjusted the TPS. Before that it was just High Idle. I mean really high.

I wish I had a code reader. I went into town to all the Auto Parts stores and nobody had them in stock. I know I can order one on the internet, but I am wondering what kind of software I will need. Would the basic codes be good enough?

I havea 95 Subaru Legacy we are trying to fix for a friend. When I got it it didn't run at all. Changed the Alternator and Crank angle sensor and a few other parts. Finally got it to start and it wouldn't stay running. The timing was way off. Ininitially I didnt think timing belt becuase the passenger side Timing belt cover was broken and the exposed belt look great. After pulling the whole thing apart we discovered on of the Timing Sprockets had lost its bearing and probably caused the belt to skip a cog or something. So we replaced the Water Pump all the seals and put on a new timing belt. The car started right up but it is running at realy high idle like 3000-4000 and it consistently surges in idle. Like vrooooom....vroom..vroooom...vroom..vroooom Either we put the timing belt on wrong or something else is wrong. I used a C-Clamp to depress the tensioner and I hope I didn't hurt that. But any thoughts would be helpful. thanks,g

Email me at sregor13@gmail.com and I will send you some awesome PDF's. They explain the System and give diagrams and troubleshooting tips and all.

I have had this problem alot in Subaru's over the years. Your likely culprit is poor connection at the Battery Terminals, the alternator itself or the main ground connection. Clean the battery terminals with diet Coke and wire brush, or better yet replace them if possible. Check the connection on the back of the Alternator. The ring terminals on my Legacy corroded and pretty much were ready to fall of. You can replace with Yellow Ring terminal. On bith of the above you may want to peel the shielding back a little to inspect the wire. The Battery..., you can test it to see if it has 12V, but this doesnt give you the whole story. Batteries can show 12V with a Tester but have no cranking amps. Some batteries wont accept a charge. If the battery is made by Exide then I would consider it ruined from the get go. Just kidding, but I find that only 1 in 4 Exide batteries I buy actuall work for more than two months. ( That is no lie) The alternator..... I have had experiences where the voltage regulator, within the Alternator, is going out interemittently. It will either over or undercharge the battery. But sometimes it put out just the right amount. So consider that in your troubleshooting. I have got money on the Positive battery terminal or where the hot lead hooks up to the alternator. if it is neither of these then do exactly what Cougar says and you will find the problem. Cougar is an Expert in troubleshooting Subaru Electrical.

I have seen it described as engaging a single brake channel. I have never seen it referenced as going to just the Driver front brake. The cable we have been referring to as the Hill Holder cable is called the PHV Cable. It goes from the Clutch release fork to the PHV (Pressure Hold Valve) which we have been loosely referring to as the Hill Holder. There is one line on the PHV that goes to the master cylinder and two other lines. One of the two other lines goes straight to the right front brake. The other line goes to a proportioning valve in the rear. The proportioning valve in the rear has four lines attaced to it. One from the PHV , one from the master cylinder , one out the left rear and one out to the right rear. The proportioning valve has check valve in it. When the PHV sends hydrualic fluid to the rear it goes only to the driver rear. If the brakes are pushed then the check vavle allows the fluid to go to both rear tires. Newer versions of Subaru Hill Holder as seen on the forester also control the front right and driver rear brakes. I dont understand why Subaru would have deviated from this as it would be ridiculous to have only one front tire braking on a hill. This would not work well at all. I am not saying your 88 doesnt have this setup. I reference Mitchell-on-Demand, Chiltons, Haynes, Subaru Drive Magazine article from 2003. I guess we could both be right. I will tear aport a PHV to see if I can figure out which brake line you are talking about.

I said nothing about the car sliding backwards. I said from side to side. According to your explanation of hillholder, both rear wheels and one front tire would have no braking. yodannyc's car wouldnt move at all. If only one front brake was applied then I would think that the car would probably spin around using that tire as some sort of pivot. When you choke wheels on a semi-trailer do you just put one the left front wheel? I put wheels chokes on either side of the trailer. Applying chokes to one tire only would create a pivot point. This would be a dangerous. You seem to understand how the rest of the system works. I cant understand what would make you think that it only applied one front brake though. Does this make sense? We all agree that the Hill Holder cable should be adjusted to troubleshoot the system. I am curious to see if this solves the problem.

It seems to be a moot point, but Subaru's Hill Holder Technology does actuate the front RH and rear LH brakes. I think this is so the car's rear end won't slide from side to side when on an incline.

Actually GeneralDisorder is WRONG. The hill holder is released by magic elves that live in the Clutch and send radio signal to gremlins in the Master Cylinder. ......Glad we clarified all that ..... Anyways pushing in the clutch pedal in part controls the magic Hill Holder technology. Look for the Clutch fork. The cable coming from the firewall attached to the clutch fork is your clutch cable as you probably already know. This pulls the fork toward the firewall. There is another cable attached to the clutch fork coming from the front side. If you depress your clutch pedal, the hill holder cable is pulled by the clutch fork. If you are on an incline then the hill holder mechanism engages your front passenger and rear driver side brakes. or somthing to that effect. If you want to adjust it then you I am pretty sure that you will just need to loosen the nuts on the end of that cable. Possibly you may also need to adjust your clutch cable to compensate for the HH cable adjustment. There is some sweet spot in there. When a clutch is burning out some folks tighten there clutch cable and this pulls the hill holder cable past the sweet spot. Another popular option is to remove the hill holder cable and put a high tension spring in its place. Just to put some tension on you clutch fork. Some people think you can just remove the Hill Holder cable and be done with it. I advise putting the spring in there, if you value your throwout bearing. I am only throwing out ideas to move this thread along.

The clutch is what releases the Hill holder. I would be quite interested to see if the Hill Holder was what actually what the problem was. Let us know what happens after you adjust it.

Rhino line anything under the trim into Gloss black and fade into Midnight blue as you go up.