sregor13

I would agree that it sounds like a throwout bearing. I took it apart because one of those little clips on the Reease lever had broken. So I went to Kotby's and got a couple new ones. I also bought a new clutch kit. Anyways it has a new throwout bearing. Could be bad or it could have something to do with the way that clip was put back in there. I wasnt actually the one who did that part. Should I just drive it like it is until something goes wrong. Or would you recommend pulling the Engine just to investigate? Thanks

No regretfully the timing belts werent changed. When the car starts it runs great until it idles down to normal RPM. I am not sure the timing is the issue anyways. Could be the little black plastic thing behind the air cleaner that has rubber lines running into it. The nipple on the bottom of this I discovered was broken.

My clutch makes a high pitched whistling noise when it is not completely released or depressed. So when the clutch pedal is not being stepped on it is fine. As soon as start to push in it makes a high pitch whistling noise. The noise starts once I have the pedal about halfrway down. This is just after putting in a brand new clutch kit.

I am completley lost. I have no problem emailing this comapany but I need to know if I am correct about the application. Would this clutch fit a EA82 4wd or an Rx, or are they the same? I just put two clutches in my 85 GL 4WD Wagon. I would be glad to pay $400 Dollars for qaulity. Turns out they dont offer a quality clutch for my car.

Tried to set the timing. Heres the problem. The car wont stay running unless it is at about 2500 RPM's. I got the timing set just right at that RPM but as soon as you back off the throttle the timing goes out about 10 Degrees and then dies. I have the Vacuum Line of and plugged and had the timing set for 6 Degrees BTDC. Then I back of the throttle and it goes out of timing and dies. So it seems like I could get it just right but I cant twist the Disty anymore because it is at the edge of the bolt slot. So then I try to take of the Disty and restab it to give me the ability to adjust it to where it it shoudl be. As soon as I push it back in then it flips the rotor right back where it was. Do I need to reset my base timing? Thanks

True Story. I got away with it but it might not be a good idea if you can control the amount of RTV you apply. I simply used that for lack of a better idea. I have heard the same thing about the Water Pump Gasket. To much RTVcan lock up the thing. Good advice

Yea I am not sure how to do that.

I would find a Loyale EA82 Turbo and do a swap. Unless you really trust your mechanic. Just my thoughts. Just a little weary after getting burned by mechanics on Subaru's. 4-500 Dollars jobs turned into 9-1100 Dollar Jobs real quick.

I would pass on that deal. Unless you like rusty cars. My new deal on Subaru's is that if they are rusty then no go. Rust is insidious and will affect all areas of the car. I have spent countless man hours sanding and patches rust on old EA82 Cars and it just isnt worth it. Not to mention the Loyale is a DL. No options.. Call me crazy but I like having map lights and rear Speakers and all that stuff stock. I would not take this car for free much less pay 1800.00. I say that with complete and total honesty. Good Luck.

IN case it wasn't metioned, dont forget the rear main seal if you pull the engine. If you get so far along and need to raise the engine to get the Oil pan, I would go ahead and pull it and do all the seals. Maybe even the clutch if it has one. As far as the Mickey Mouse Seal goes, I think I was able to get it to hold in there with a little RTV Sealant. Good Luck.

I know you are asking about reliability and such. I also see that you are looking for a new car. The EA81 seems to be a popular answer. The EA81 in my experience is simply not enough power. I actually like to drive 75MPH in a 75MPH Speed Zone. I also like to be able to pass on the Mountain passes of the Rockies. The EJ22 is probably what you want to get. The EJ22 is also used in Airplanes and other applications. I dont think I will buy anymore EA81 Cars ever. I have one that ran like hell, but it now rests in my Subaru Graveyard waiting for a EJ22 retrofit. Best car I ever owned was a 92 Legacy Touring Wagon. I know Turbo probably isnt the way to go as it is only a matter of time before the heads get blown. Sure is fun while it lasts.

Thanks guys. I got the timing light now and I want to try to get the ignition timing set. My car is running really rich. What is the procedure for timing with the light. I know that I need to clamp the Pos to #1 SP Wire, and the other end to ground. I also know where to point the light. But that is about it. My timing light has a dial on the back of it.

I think you better try and replace the crank sensor. They are not cheap either. Maybe you can borrow one for troubleshooting. My 94 did the same thing, turned out it was the cranksensor.

Okay I was a little confused. I see rideswithwind hoped onto this post. I dont know how torque bind works with Manual Transmissions but here is somewhat of a troubleshooting procedure for Automatic Transmissions. I have not seen where you say if it auto or manual. If it is an Automatic and Torque Bind is the cause, then the shop may have told your ex that it was the clutch pack. I see where that could be relayed third person as the clutch. However, it seems that the thread is leaning toward your car being a Manua. Not sure if I should give you the speel on Automatic Torque bind Troubleshooting. I dont know how much will translate into Manual Tranny pertinentcy. Nonetheless, some of it does so I will give it to you anyways and hopefully it will help. First check your tires. The size, air pressure and relative tread appearances. On the size, dont go off what it says. Actually measure them. Correct any inconsistencies in the Tires. Be it Psi or otherwise. Consider if there is a possibility that your Ex bought 2 new tires for it instead of a new set. Or perhaps it may have driven on a spare for a couple of weeks. If so then this can cause Torque Bind. This is pure speculation but I speak from experience. Second, under the hood in your A/C Fuse Box there should be your FWD Fuse Holder. Insert a 15 Amp Fuse. This should put you into FWD Mode. This in intended only for servicing your car or driving with the Donut Spare short distances at low speeds etc. It has been argued about what it may or may not damage on your car if you drive in this mode exclusively. Some say it will damage one of the Duty Solenoids, others say not. Either way, SOA notes the above limitations, so bear in mind. It shouldnt hurt to try it out for a day or two. I have driven for longer in this mode, but it is not I recommended. Drive around a bit in FWD Mode. See if there are any problems or binding. If none then you have narrowed it down. Also, this is not fact or confirmed, but I have heard this will reset your TCM and thus reset your Duty Solenoid(s). If your Forester is an Automatic then know that there are three Duty Solenoids on the Transmission. (A B and C.) If problems don't exist in FWD Mode then you may have binding. If an automatic then pull the Transmission Trouble Codes. They should give an Code for any Duty Solenoid issues. If a Manual then I dont even know if there is a TCM. ON the other hand if you experience some problems when the Fuse is in then your problems likely exist elsewhere. You say you have changed the Fluid/Oil. If it was a Manual then it would be API GL-5 SAE 75W-90 Gear Oil. Not sure how the additive plays in. If your Forester is an Automatic, then it would be API GL-5 80W-90 Gear Oil in the front and rear differentials, and ATF Dexron 2 or Dexron 3 in the transaxle. (On a side note. You say you drove around in Circles after changing the Fluid. I have heard from several sources doing several figure 8's in reverse is what the doctor ordered after Fluid Gear Oil Changes. This might not be applicable in a Manual Transmission.) Now that the Tires and Fluid have been addressed and you know about any Solenoid codes then you you should be pretty close to a conclusion. Let me add that there are two different types of "Torque Bind" on an AWD Subaru. One is thought to be a problem within the transmission, ( aka the Center Differential) this would be something you would feel in a Turn or coming into a turn while slowing down from high speed. You may feel a shudder or hear your tires bark while turning. The other is general "torque bind" in the rear end. Something gone awry in the rear differential. The later (rear diff binding ) was a persistent problem caused by the inner casing of the rear diff. The solution was to to replace the seal(s) on the rear diff and put a steel casing in the interior. The problem was caused by the Aluminum Case getting shaved down over time by moving parts. The aluminum shavings limited the rear diff's ability to distribute the Gear Oil. Eventually leading to rear end binding. I think was only on AWD Sub's from 90-96. They started to reinforce the Rear Diff at the Factory in 97. This leads me to think, that if you have "torque bind", then it is the former of two types of binding I described above. You could suffer from classic torque bind. I have my doubts, if you have a Manual Transmission. If an Automatic then you will also want to check your codes for ATF Temp Sensor along with the Duty Solenoids. You may have to remove the Extension Case and inspect the area inside the case where the seal rides. It is possible that you will have to replace the Transfer clutch plates and seals. I guess this would be called an overhaul of the Tranfer Clutch. Not sure exactly. So if you get to any of this or if you want to know the location of the Duty Solenoids then let me know. Hope this info is helpful and I realize it is long winded. Just reliving a nightmare in this post. Good Luck.

Yea my guess would be for either the Jack or for a Cargo Area liner. Definately not the tire, becasue that still goes under the hood on the Loyale. Might be an aftermarket thing. Dogcage or something. I dont think mine had one of those.

Trogdor may be right about the Power Light, I am not sure, but I know it is also used for reading Transmission Codes. As for the nut in the back I am thinking that holds the Jack in place. Is it in the drivers side rear cargo panel? I dont have my 90 Loyale anymore but I do remember the Jack being there. Hope that info is helpful.

I was not sure entirely what I was asking but your answer is great. I will try that. Thanks

I just spent an hour reading previous post on this topic and still dont understand. I knoww all to well how to adjust the clutch cable. Also, I no longer have hill holder. It has been argued that that is fine. But I put a spring on there to make sure it is returning to position. So here is what is happpening. There is a chirping sound coming from somewhere in the area of the clutch. Prior to putting in the return spring (in place of the hill holder), I could get the chirping to stop bu pulling up the clutch pedal after shifting. So there is still this sweet spot when it chirps until I push the pedal in a way and then it stops. So I am really worrried that I am going to break something i.e. TO Bearing. So looking in the book it says to adjust the pedal height to make it level with the brake pedal. This is simple enough, there is a bolt under the dash that pushes the pedal up. So once this is done I go out and start to monkey with the clutch adjustment. Say I removed the cable altogether and ran it like that in idle. With the return spring in place, it theoretically should be okay right? Well anyway, might be moot. Nonetheless, I culd tighten the adjusting bolt on the Cable until the cows come home or until I run out of thread. Where does this need to be. I have heard references to free play and all that but I dont quite get it. I can tell where it starts to move theFork back toward the Firewall of the car. Like I said I can keep going and going and going, when do I stop. I can get in car and shift and get the car moving but this chirping is freaking me out. I almost think that it is chirping when the return spring was not in place. However I am pretty sure I hear a clunking when the clutch pedal is engaged. Hopefully some genius will be able to read between the lines on this post and give some instructions better than those in my Chiltons. or at least give thier opinion, so that a light will go off in my head on this whoile deal. I want to avoid anything that would cause me to pull this engine again. Thanks

I knew I should have pulled those timing belt covers off when I had a chance. Anyways, I got the car started. The timing was "180 out" I am not sure what that means but I pulled of the Disty and rotated until the Rotor was pointed right before #1. it runs but it is a little off I think. The car is running real rich. It burns my eyes and kinda runs poor. In addition it dies at every stop. I had a friend help and he says I need a timing light. Drove to the next town over to get one from Walmart. of course they dont carry them. So is there a way to get it right without a timing light? I have heard of this sort of thing but I am not sure how all that works. I know where the marks are on the Flywheel and I beleive it should be 6 Deg BTDC, but I have no idea how to do the timing with a light or otherwise. Sure I have taken of the timing belts and pointed the marks....etc to get the base timing. But is the base timing different than the Ignition timing??? I am confused on this whole timing thing. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks

Your clutch pack might need replaced. The problems that cause classic "torque bind" may only appear in tight turns at first but as the problem persist the clutch pack gets damaged and you will feel the effects in very slight turns and eventually the binding will occur while driving perfectly straight. This may be neither here nor there for your problems. It may be some other issue, but the binding ocurs within the transmission as far as I understand.

Those last 2 posts arrived almost within seconds of each other. If you are able to get the timing belt covers off without breaking them I will be surprised, unless you already have them off. Seems like the bolts go right into plastic and just strip instantly. I left mine off and have no regrets on that.

I would plan on getting a new Waterpump just because they are cheap and worth replacing while you are in there. You will have 2 Cam Seals, along with 2 O-Rings on the back side of the Cam Seal Housing, 1 Crankshaft Seal, I think there are 2 Oil Pump Seals. One is called a Mickey Mouse Gasket. It is kind of shaped like Mickey Mouse. So anyways when you get into where the Timing Belts are you can eaasily access the rest of this stuff. The directions found in Chiltons works pretty good. You will need a massive Socket for the Crankshaft Bolt? I think that is what it is called. I bought the Seal Puller but i dont think you really need it. You should be able to buy a kit with everything included. I got one on Ebay for 60-80 Bucks, came with both timing belts. There are more gaskets I am sure but these are the ones you want to do when you are replacing the timing belts. Just because of the redundant labor.

Well the guy who helped on this project came out and moved the Disty so that #1 was firing on 6 Degrees before TDC, I think. As far as the plugs go I will change them but I dont know how I would go about checking spark with only one person. Any suggestions? Thanks

Also you might have some bad gas to complicate matters. Try some seafoam in there for added help.

I dont recall how it was on the 86, but I would think you could get a good look at the backside by taking the console out. It is possible that it will just push out from the backside. You should be able to take out all the console stuff in about 10 Minutes or less.