mtnman38

hey all can any body tell me if there is a way to tell between a brat engine and a hatch/wagon ie, vin # engine vin # visual diffrences I have three brats and they all have running engines I know that one is a true brat but I have a feeling that the other two may have been switched out any insight would be most helpful Thanks LT

Also check similar threads @ the bottom of this page Here is what I do I undo the ball joint castle nut remove flip the nut over tighten jut enough that the nut and bolt make a flat suface at the end ( this way the ball joint does not come all the way out it just breaks it free Then I take a jack with a divit in the top so the ball joint bolt has a place to rest with out sliping than just jack it up on that side useing only the ball joint bolt as a lifting point. I usally go just high enough to start lifting the car. than give a few taps with a hammer on bolth sides of the joint and it should pop loose from the control arm I just really hate those fork I ve waisted way too much time with them This way is the ezest for me but it could be the I just have done it too much LT

Hmm I will check that today thanks stumpy.

fliud look fine maybee a little thin it smells kinda burnt also austin has in formed me that the leagacy only comes with a four speed AT so this means that I have no third or fourth also I seem to be throwing code 35 but I really dont see that they are related nipper thanks for taking the time LT

Hello to all fellow suby junkies I did some searching in past posts but was unable to see any with these exact problems Here is my problem My trans has hesitation on take off but goes into gear (warm or cold) first and second work but when I get to third it just spins freely ( in manual and auto) so no third or fourth gear period. It goes into all other gears with just a little hesitation Here is what I have tried Pulled the ecu tcu fuse disconected the battery pushed the brake to bleed the left over energy checked the fliud level (added a quart) checked all of the wires (looked good and all conected) so I think next I am going to flush the lines and change both filters and pan gaskett replace the fluid do you all have any advice should I bother with it or just replace the trans I also have a post in the marketplace for anyone that has one layin around that they want to part with Thanks LT

YO I will try to get mine out to you by next week I ve been in the middle of a 2.2 conversion so Ive been a little tied up LT

Sweet thanks for the intel LT

Hey all So my girlfriend has a 90 legacy sedan 2.2 and she trashed the engine ( long story) I found a 92 legacy wagon with the same 2.2 Can I just drop it in or is it going to be a ECU, harness change Thanks LT

not I says this guy

YES !!! cant wait I have all the toys that I need to get R done and done right haha

SWEEEET! Can't wait Im chomping @ the bit Its so bad Im lifting subarus in my dreams but the s#%*! thing is that even than its never mine LOL Thanks man

Thanks man, By the way did you get my PM and is it going to work for ya?

Hey Shady I dropped ya A pm Thanks LT

I might be interested in the rear coil over exstentions for ea82 lift with the holes drilled in the top mount to fit in the back of the brat I want to use 82 rear coil overs so that I can haul more weight with less california prerunn'in LoL Thanks LT

HMMMM?

Chux is on it he knows I never had this problem with the shiftboot. you could always screw it down if chux idea does not work

SWEEEEET I think that I will just go by the stock torque specs an dthen just keep an eye on them

Nope 1992 wagon

YO ok man here is what I did First about the rear strut issues put the bracket on the top of the strut titen then use a sissor jack between the swing arm and the big rubber stopper and jack it right into place Yep myou defenitly need to replace the top rad hose but you can shorten the bottom and reuse it As for the grounds and battery I always do that first when I do any motor work. I also had a h3ll of a time putting these peices in . In the directions it says that you need to remove the tie rod end from the control arm wich I thought it was a torshen bar . once I removed the torchen bar from the control arm it went back like butter The front camber strut towers have a R or a L on them for right and left and the car has to roll some times before the camber will go back to normal To get the front blocks in I used the same sissor jack between the body and the engine gradle ( one on both sides) then slowly jack into place until lined up and finaly to get the (tie rod ends/ torshen bar) back to the hole I just put a ratchet strap hooked up to the back wheel and the front wheel and pulled them toghether until the holes line up again and vwallla hopfully this makes it easier for all and I will be happy to answer any questions further

No camera @ this time but Ill work on it any Idea of torque specs for all new bolts Thanks LT

Ok so I just finished installing my new AA lift so my question is what should I torque the bolts to (shady?) thanks LT

well ea82 lift on (4 hrs) the only problem that I that can see is the stearing knuckle barelt fits on the shafts . seems to be about an inch short, it fits but just barly on the ends, little scary Also do you think that you could send some 1 in exstention blocks for the shift linkage protector Hey thanks shady for providing this service ONE DOWN THREE TO GO WOOOOHAHAHA

Hey shady: I received my ea82 kit yesterday I will be putting it in today if all goes well thank you much Pmed ya LT

Yikes !!!

usually if you have a topo map of the area it will have private land shown as a diffrent color( white as Ive seen) I used to get the maps from the corrilating forest service office. ( logging maps maybe)