Gnuman

I thought it was the "virgin switch"? the clicking seems to be indicative of the alarm system, though. Windrunner, does your car have keyles entry from the factory? Are the lights on solid, or are they flashing?

Powered only when key is on (or acc). there are a couple of connections: Power - single wire to center rear. Light - two line connector to the side (IIRC, I'll have to look) Ground - spade plug on the rear side. For easiest access, take the kick panel off. That is the lower part of the dashboard under the steering wheel. You will need a flashlight, and a healthy dose of patience. I hope you have small fingers. It is a bit tight and awkward getting to it.

Well, the sluggish response of the AWD system is one for me to fix. And there is the problem with the inside door releases (the auto-lock problem), and the back up lights not working. . . Not to mention that it is pissing oil out of the cam seals. . . I think I'm covered. Oh, and if the sunroof project turns out real well on emily, I may offer to put a sunroof in this car. . . Not to mention that I have several other Subies to work on. I have to have a lot of 'roos to work on. One would run out of problems too fast. They are just too reliable. . .

OK, first off: Yes, we name all of our vehicles. It is something like naming a ship. Emily and I were very happy (and still are), but my (now ex) wife was not happy at all. She was driving a 99 Saturn and could not see well at all from inside it. Particularly at night. While we are split up, she is still carting my daughter around, so I found her a better car. a 90 Legacy L wagon AWD 4EAT. Got it for $300 because it was in fact a 15 3/4 (fifteen and three quarters) valve EJ22. Well, I replaced that valve and now it is running fine (well, at least a lot better). With 197,000 miles on it, there are a few things that are wearing out, but I have also made a few upgrades. I took the steel wheels off, replacing them with alloys (which also had new tires mounted ), swapped the plain seats with the top model seats (height adjust, seatback pockets, front to back adjustable headrests, and headrests in the rear as well), I'm adding a CD player also and I snagged the body color mirrors from a donor that we had (that also matched her car). Car drives nice, shifts smooth, no torque bind, AC works (weakly), windows all work, etc. The ex-wife has spent the last two months on England, visiting her brand new grandson. She returns to SFO Monday night. I pushed a bit to get the car ready in time to use it to pick her up at the airport. She does not even know (yet) that it is running at all (last time she saw it was before I changed out the valve). This will be her welcome home and Mothers day present. We now have two running 'roos in the stable. Emily, you already know. Now meet Pegasus! Benifits: 1) It is a Subaru! I know my ex-wife and my daughter will be safe. 2) new tires, alloy wheels, new T-belt 3) everything works inside 4) roof rack 5) Adding a CD player 6) upgraded seats 7) etc. . . Problems: (come on, it has 197K miles, fer Gosh sakes!) 1) back up lights do not light up when in reverse 2) AC is weak 3) pissing oil from crank seals 4) AWD system responds slowly (meaning I can "peel out" when I shouldn't be able to) 5) Radio seems to have a bit of trouble pulling in weak stations front right door panel torn up a bit (door handle and the like) 6) Drivers door rattles (fixed) 7) tailgate needs to be slammed to get it to close properly (fixed) 8) drivers power window switch does not auto-up (I have a replacement switch to swap in) 9) I keep trying to shift the transmission (and my left leg tends to spasm like it is pushing in the clutch when I stop) 10) I am running out of problems. . .

Other than why would you want to remove the AWD part of the car, that removes the one issue I have with this. That being that you need to make sure that rhe rear diff maches the final ratio of the tranny. to ensure this, get the rear diff from the same car as the tranny you are getting. Oh, one more issue: there may be wiring/TCU problems with this swap. I have heard of at least one instance where that happened.

OK, you beat me to that one, but it attaches to the block, not the heads. On the passenger side of the engine, you have the radiator intake (from the engine to the radiator) at the end of the cross pipe. You also have the O-rings on the pipe itself, and the coolant temp sensor and a hose that goes to the throttle body. All of these are likely places to loose coolant from, if they are not clamped correctly, or the rubber bits are damaged/old. Did you replace the headgaskets when you had the engine out? If so, did you follow the torque procedure correctly? if so, then the headgaskets are an unlikely suspect.

More progress: I have test fitted the sunroof tray, and in doing so, I discovered that the fourth roof fib needs to come out and be replaced. There is no place to bolt up the back end of the sunroof tray on the original rib. I fairly well expected this anyway, as the 4th rib in the donor car is much more substantial than the non-sunroof version. In all, it is a good trade in any case. In looking at the forward support skin, I have come to the conclusion that I'll need to cut down one side of the skin in order to be able to get it in the car. This does not present any major structural problems, however, as the mounting points are on the frame rail mostly. The exception to this is the two that are on the 4th rib, and the two that are forward of the opening on the front. The support skin will be bonded to the roof skin with JB Weld, so I do not expect any problems, particularly as it will be well supported on the sides. I still have concerns about the power supply to the motor, but that is the biggest problem I see remaining. As an emergency recourse, I can run a heavy guage wire to main power seperately.

It is not manditory to replace all 4 tires at the same time. If you do not, however, you are betting your tranny. How much of a gamble are you or your friend willing to take?

Order by phone. The webpage is no longer operated by the same people, and the prices are only the same if you call them.

Actually I need one. How much to ship it to CA (say, Berkeley?) Send me a PM? I got a car for parts that had a pully fall off for not being tightened down enough. Heyway is mangled pretty bad, but I have JB Weld for that The pix that JPX posted are nothing. Mine has that cut part going all the way around the pulley. The proper torque for the crank pulely bolt is 150ft-lbs to prevent this kind of thing. . . In other news, the car gave up a fair pile of good parts for me to use fixing other 'roos

OK, I just have to say this. Does anyone else find the title of this thread to be incredibly scary? I shudder every time I read (or hear) those words. . .

I'm almost certain that he is refering to the Power Steering pump, as that is the most likely place to get oil like pooling on top of the engine. If the filler tube was the problem, then the oil would be going over the cam cover, and not likely get to the top of the engine. The oil is not pressurised in that tube, so it is not likely to go uphill to get past the injectors. . .

Air-lock is when you get air in your cooling system, and it can cause trouble with the flow of coolant. This willl cause your car to overheat, causing a leak in an already fragile headgasket. I say fragile because the original headgasket used in these years (95-99 DOHC 2.5L) was not up to the standard that Subaru is generally known for. They have since come out with an upgraded headgasket that is far better. 99% of the time, replacing the headgasket with the new version solves the headgasket problem that these cars are infamous for. There is a fairly large volume of information on this here. Do a search on Head Gasket and you will be rewarded with a large supply of reading material regarding the problem.

Hutch, that was an honest question, and your insulting "answer" was out of line. Lewdog: I doubt you will need it for some time to come. I recomend it every 50,000 to 100,000 miles. I doubt you will need it before 100,000, particularly if you use decent gas. Despite what Hutch said, you are not an idiot for asking that question, given that you were not sure. If you had not asked it, then you might have been

You don't even have to want it real bad. . . The seats are interchangable. . .

Yeah, that is fairly standard for a Subaru Cruise control. Control unit is under the column, eh

Thanks for that. It is a 2.2L AWD model. so is it 13 gals or 15 under those circumstances? Add on kit for $60? Cool! I'll be calling Jason real soon then.

the AWD and FWD interiors are identical. Look underneath from the rear. If you see a rear diff, it is AWD. You can also look under the hood. If there is a fuse holder by the right strut tower, that also indicates that it is AWD. The FWD models do not have the fuse, as they are always in FWD mode.

I have a friend that just got an Impreza L wagon, and swears that the tank is 10 gal. My Legacy (and every Legacy I know of) carries 15.8 gal. I'm guessing that the fuel guage sender in the tank is dirty, and showing empty way before the tank is even close. Second: the car came without Cruise Control. Is it a major undertaking to retrofit Cruise into this (what I most want to know is "Is the wiring already there?") IIRC, the cruise computer is in the center console below the radio headunit. I also know that I would need to get the cruise solenoid for under the hood (that is the part that the computer controls. It actuates the cruise servo that has a throttle cable on it, also under the hood), as well as a stalk for the wheel, and the on/off button. Putting them in should also be no problem, as I'm unafraid to take the dash apart to get at things that I may need to.

Looks nice! I'm guessing that the red one is the project car? As for what I would do with it. . . I'd probably get arrested. I cannot stand to see capability unused. And the Impreza has such a capability for going fast and handling well. . .

Outback Sport struts? The Outback sport is an Impreza wagon, so it should bolt right up. Or am I smoking something?

I would use the subaru wiring diagram, with the Crutchfield as a backup. No, a 9v battery is DC, and you need AC to get sound (other than a pop) out of the speakers. Run a pair of jumper wires from the back of the headunit (you know, you can probably still use that WRX unit. It works. Also the factory unit also still works. The problem sounds (sorry) like it is in the wires or speakers themselves.

14mm bolt at the bottom, and swing it up. the top is a pin only. To get good clearance you may want to remove the caliper frame (I think these are also 14mm bolts in the front, but they may be 17mm) as well. If you are upgrading your brake system from a smaller stock set to a larger set (for more power. Also it can be good if you use oversized wheels) you need to get the disc and caliper frame from the same car.

OK, the demolition is going slowly. So far I have cut out 3/4 of the roof of the donor car to get the supports that come on a sunroof model car. When I got it home (carried inside the cargo area no less), I took a pic that may explain why Subarus are so heavy. Well, I took several. Unfortunately, the file size exceeds upload limits. email me and I'll share with you though. So far, I have the skin on the donor roof, I have removed one rib, and cut two others free at one end (and am in the process of wiggling until metal fatigue breaks it off). The skin replaces the first three ribs, and there is a good sized 4th rib to replace the standard size one. This is out of 5 ribs. I'll be JB Weldinng the skin up (with the studs going through the existing holes for support), and doing the same with the 4th rib. The updates will come faster as I get more done at a time. . . Remaining Items of Concern: Wiring for the Sunroof power, removing the skin from the donor roof without damage.

And what kind of looks did you get at the finish?