Gnuman

OK, I checked out the LUK clutches I could find on the web. The only one that listed my car was the direct swap one that performs just like the OE one, but costs less than the Exedy (180 vs 215), but they also have a line that is supposed to last a good bit longer under hard driving conditions, called ProGold (or somesuch). They did not give any way to tell if it is available for which car, however, so I'm a bit miffed at them for that. I would have wanted to compare the cost, as that seems to be a better clutch. . . Oh, and the LUK clutches are made in Germany, if that makes any difference. . .

Which would account for the ticking, but not the killing of the engine. Unstable oil pressure may blow seals, or not properly float the lifters, but it would not starve the berrings, when it is caused by overfilling the pan. . . I'm with the rest of the pack that says the Nissan dealer test drove the car before putting the new oil in. . .

On your car, just to the right of the column (facing front) there is a large yellow connector with a pair of blue "T" shaped connectors with one wire coming out of each. These will probably be connected together. To check the codes, disconnect them and turn the ignition on (without starting the engine) and watch the Check Engine Light (CEL). The trouble codes are two digits long, with the long flashes indicating the 10's (count them) and the short flashes indicating the 1's . Write these codes down and look them up in your Chiltons manual. Assuming you have manual part number 8259, the codes for your car are on page 4-54 on the top of the page. There may be several codes stored, so keep watching and writing down codes until the CEL stops flashing. When you have all the codes recorded, unplug the negetive battery terminal for a half hour or more (overnight is good). Then start it up let it idle for 15 minutes then take it for a really nice drive around block like you are breaking it in. Shut it off then drive it like normal. When you are done, you will need to reprogram the clock and radio presets, of course. . . If you post the codes here, we can help you diagnose the problem as well.

You didn't, really. . . the 1990 Legacy is OBDI, and the codes are a series of flashes of the light when in check mode. There are detailed descriptions of how to read the codes on page 6-3 of the Haynes manual that covers your car (number 89100). If you need, I can scan it and post that page. Josh, do you have that info already scanned?

The original clutch was, I believe, an Exedy clutch, which is a well respected clutch on this board (from everything I have heard). I would have the timing belt/chain replaced as you are already having the car in the shop. I would also have all the seals that are behind the timing belt also changed. Is this an H4 or an H6 engine? H4 engines have a belt and the H6 has a chain. From what I have heard, Federal standard vehicles have 60,000 mile belts, and CA standard cars have 105,000 mile belts. Try and get them to put a California standard belt on if you can, just for insurance.

That would be one bridge crossing for you (Richmond Bridge). What is the issue you are having with yoru GT? Come see us at the meet on the 15th and perhaps we can also help you there. The meet I speak of is at the Barnes & Noble in El Cerrito Plaza (Take San Pablo Ave north, it will be on your right) at 10 AM.

In general, it has been my experience that the cops will give you +-5mph for "speedometer error" before they even look at you for speeding. More likely, however, is that less than 5MPH is not worth thier time to stop you when there are idiots that will do 20 and 30 over the limit all the time. . .

That has been hapening to a lot of people, check all the clamps on all the gas lines (particularly the ones near the headers), and make sure the gas cap is on tight. Oh, and it may also be that your avitar is distracting your car. . . .

On the subject of tires, I have an odd question. . . We are starting to get the wet stuff here now and in situations where any cars would hydroplane, my Legacy acts like I just hit the brakes (going into the puddle, for example, when the tires hit the deep water, it is like I just dropped an anchor). Tracking is straight and true, no handling issues at all, just a sudden speed drop. Is this normal, or is this an indication of a problem (other than bald tires)? I noticed this in FWD cars for many years as a good safety factor (when the front tires loose traction, you slow down until they regain it. . .) This dive is more pronounced though, and I do not feel any of the side slip that FWD cars have tended to give under those conditions. . .

Just the kind of answer you'd expect from someone living in a state with the slogan "Live Free or die"! Next you will be wanting freedom of the press or the right to bear arms, or a vote that is counted properly like they do in Amer. . .Oh right. . . this is America. . .far too easy to forget that these days. . .

YOu know, one of th3e things that I like most about my 92 Legacy wagon is that when the cops are looking for potential speeders, they don't even notice me. . . I just curise on by at 80. . .

Isn't Subaru partly owned by GM? I can just see an Onstar equipped Subie in the hands of any of the Hatch Patrol. . .

"I'm OK for now, but I won't be if you keep distracting me!!!"

First off, 3,000 miles on an 01? I think you meant 30,000. . . Tell them to replace the clutch as it is slipping, and it is way too early for that, so they should do it for free under warranty. . . I don't care how bad you drive (or they say you do) 30,000 miles is too fast for a clutch to die. . . .

make sure it is the tire first, and if it is, replace it now. I was driving a minivan (as a job) once, and the owner had no idea why the car shook like it did, I inspected the tires, and immediately rotated the left front tire to the left rear, then took the van to a tire shop as soon as humanly possable. THere was a lump in the tread area the size of a grapefruit!! The van ran bautifully after that. . ..

Lesbaru, I'm glad you found a dealership that you could work with. That last story you mentioned (the spark plugs issue) upset me no end. I used to be a Service Manager (at a bicycle shop), and I understand the importance of good customer relations, and I hate to see people acting on predijuice(sp) when taking diagnostic information. . .

Try reading it as "pedal travel increases significantly before acting on the clutch" or perhaps "pedal free-play increases significantly". That should help you understand the question better. . .

Welcome!

I would look to your first quote for the source of the smell. . . . This sounds to me like the thermostat is stuck closed, which would prevent burping as well, so air pockets could also be present. . . (and they would expand, pushing the coolant up and out of the rad when the cap was off). I would change the thermostat (with a genuine Subaru one) and burp the system again before declaring the gaskets to be gone. . .

First off, Welcome to USMB! The car you have comes with teh EJ22 engine, which is considered one of Subarus best ever. You have a good car there. I have the same one with a 5 speed manual. 1) If the wheel berring goes too long without being repaired, it can sieze or spin on the hub and cause that to have to be replaced as well. Better early than late. . . 2) Two things to check are the thermostat (get a genuine Subaru thermostat, the aftermarket ones are not nearly as good, and may not even work), and air pockets in the engine. There have been several descriptions of how to "burp" the cooling system to prevent this. Search for "overheating" on this forum.

Sounds like the start of a great working relationship!!

Heh, that sounds like fun! Count me in! At least for the throwing the wrench around bit anyway. I do not have a lot of spare cash to toss at a project, but I'd love to lend askilled hand to this one. . .

7 years as Service Manager in a bicycle shop. I still love bikes, but will never work in a shop again. . .

From what I have read here, perhaps they should be. . . I would like for Subaru to go from being an "also ran" which is where they seem to be sitting now, to being one of the major players in the field. They have great cars, and most of the owners of these cars become fanatics of the line (myself included) as a result. It seems that a number of poor dealerships is the only thing holding them back. . .

Good that you are replacing the radiator, and with a better one that came with the car, but that may not be all of your problem. . . when you refil with coolant after replacing the radiator, be sure and "burp" the system real well. Air pockets will cause just such a problem as you described, and may be the reason teh original radiator cracked. . .