turboguzzi

I am collecting the part numbers for a complete refurbishment of front and rear suspension bushings.... and its long... and expensive. is there any "complete kit" that includes everything? OEM style, NOT "racy" color polyurethane

Howdy Trying to help a friend finding parts and just noticed that my go to online parts catalog stops at 2007.... https://www.ilcats.ru/?brand=subaru&function=getModels&market=lhd&language=en Opposed forces site seems to be down... Any links to other parts catalogs sites? tnxs!

From my research, Germany and Holland are the countries with highest numbers fo Suabrus on the roads in Europe. Does anyone know who is well stocked with Subaru spares in DE or NL? I am in EU (Italy), so no problem shipping from there Had collision damage recently, the other driver's insurance is covering but they insist on using new parts (rear bumper and tailights) which i have trouble finding in Italy your help is welcome!

Good tip Imdew, but i was trying to test the ball joint all along, but quite impossible without disassembly it seems..... if you lift the car, the A arm sits at such an angle that even if there was play, i dont think that id feel it tugging at the wheel. its not like checking for freeplay at the steering head in a bike refretfully crazy how with those tie rods gone, car felt like its totally clapped out! with new stupid tie rods, feels like a new car, just odd

Well did the thing, so kinda pleased with myself, but also bummed.... dismounting went smooth, in italy they dont use salt on roads in winter, so cars here are very rust free, there was nothing frozen. I did have to make a 1/8" U shaped plate to add height to my fork tool as it wasnt tall enough to separate the taper, easy. 10 mins with an angle grinder to make second bigger issue was none of my fault, i mounted the first new ball in the arm, went to feed it into hole in the steering knuckle.... wont go in! Really? Turns out the SKF bodies were machined oversized due to an error in the factory, 38,10mm instead of the 37,95mm it should be! how the hell this can happen is a mystery. Options was to send them back to amazon and wait for new ones, but with the car on stands and the rubber boots destroyed during removal i couldnt go back to the old ones Luckily i have a lathe and been able to take a lick off the diameter and bring it back to dimension, but gee.... what the heck Now for the real bummer - As i was bolting back the torsion bar tie rods, i casually pulled on the bar and heard a knock.... well turns out that the free play making noise was in the tie rods, not the ball joints!!!!! Indeed after lowering the car and driving with the new ball joints, clacking was still there. The old ball joints had no free play to begin with. Ordered new tie rods, changed them in 10 minutes or so without even lifting the car, noise gone. Cant believe i did all the knuckle ball joints work (and SKF agravation) for nothing. So lesson learned, check your stupid little tie rods before changing your ball joints.

good, so where do the H1 go?

My 05 forester started doing clicks and clacks in the front suspension over low speed bumps, seems like its time for suspension ball joints. no fee play in the steering ones. Received already my skf joints, but before trying to install and getting stuck, some questions: 1. does my fork tool look like the right size and shape? 2.how bad is freeing the tapers on these? Car has no rust but the joints where never changed in 20 years.. 3.any other tips in terms of work steps? tnxs!

that much i know.... but how do the us headlights work? separate bulbs for low and high?

are you sure its H1? in europe hedalight lamps are H4.... in any case, i went el cheapo with these, like 35$, thye lasted 2 years..... look in thier shop, maybe they have the H1 you need https://www.amazon.it/dp/B07XF6VBV8?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2

are you sure? well, according to this subaru pdf its just 8 nuts and glass comes off (tahts all i need to change) see page 5 stil linterested in compatability of SF, SG, or else.... or3_body_15.pdf

Well, out the blue my GF's 1st series Forester cracked the sunroof Nothing hit it, but now im reading that this simply happens sometimes luckily looks like replacement work should be easy, but trouble is finding a used one (not about to pay 600-700 for new) any idea if glass from SG, SH fits too? seems easier to find used P/N are different, but that could be just shade color etc.... Tnxs

do you have the FSM? the one for my forester does have a spec for the ride height "wheel arch height", check to see how the number for the OB compares to your actual car

Mistery solved, its the bushings..... now to crawl under the car....

Hi ultimates My girlfriends 98 forester 5M/T shift lever is not self centering anymore while in neutral. Remember that happening to me in my legacy and then fixing it, but it was a while ago.... I was sure the spring you can see from beneath the car that was missing (see pic), but when i went ot check its still there... odd... so my memory is not that good? So where is the centering spring located? a link to the relevant illustrated parts list would be appreciated.... Tnxs

tnxs, know amayama, usualy used it only to searhc part numbers i had already, not diagrams, will have a better look now

Hia Havent needed much in terms of original parts of late, but now i do and the old trusty opposedforces parts fiche site is gone forever.... Other alternatives? tried to use catcar.info but looks like its not the complete set of diagrams tnxs!

it was one of those rare cases where id say: easier done than said even with the window stuck on up. all done in 20 minutes. in the name of science, opened the old motor, all damage was due to water ingression, god knows how it got there

well, assembly arrived.... watched the video, was a bit of a cringing experience, who uses a power mini impact to tighten bolts that hold the glasss?.... Anyway, it does help preparing for the job tomorrow my challenge is going to be the non working motor, means i cant lower the window to get to the glass retaining nuts.... Any ideas on how to make the mech go down without the motor working?

gee, just saw now "74 items sold"! so yes, looks like a recurring problem for many...

well, tore it down today, tried to feed 12V directly to the motor plug dead at least found one at decent price for europe https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254525521821

when i was poorer i made my own with a piece of thick wall pipe, some drifts done on a lathe and the biggest threaded rod i could find, think it was a M14 or M18. it wasnt fun, a bit sketchy too, but it did the job, Where there's a will, there's a way

Ok, tnxs for the insights!

interesting, so essentially motor gets "tired" and best to replace the whole thing? to a motorcyclist wrench like me it looks like the mechanism just needs TLC, but might be wrong

Realize now i havent been here in a long while... you can blame the reliability of my two foresters... well, the electric driver window of my 2005 is really struggling going up and down, need to "help" the window go in both directions Before i tackle this, I tried to do a search for relevant posts, got all sorts of results BUT the ones i need 😶 Did try to lubricate a bit the glass itself to see if its just guide friction, but no, it hardly helped So before tearing into the door, whats the most likely culprit? your inputs are welcome

here in italy they were called "GL" spec, mine was exactly same level of spec, electric windows, all other buttons seem to there, just one empty switch space. my old one was a 92, this one is a 93, both have the high roof bulge, makes for a very airy feeling inside, specially for someone who's 6'4" like me, wish it had cruise control but never seen it in really old Legs round here.