turboguzzi

that's it? no more guzzing?

I wouldn't describe a ujoint symptom as a rumble, more of a vibration, and usually only while under load. It's not generally play in the joint, but they seize. It can be felt by hand, but only after removing the shaft from the car. Tnxs Numb. Will crawl under car this weekend, in my 16 years of soobing, 1st time i read about this UJ issues, my 2 Legs and 2 Foresters never had UJ issues untill now, only experience with a failed UJ was in my only a motorcycle with a drive shaft, a Moto Guzzi Le Mans 850. Rumble is also present in idle/neutral, goes away when pressing the clutch, so was thinking it was clutch plate springs or something, but then again, it could be two separate problems/rumbles. Just like the OP, not the best season here to be doing this outdoors... sorry for the hijack but if its any help, heres the best trans removal guide ive seen, https://www.rs25.com/threads/diy-clutch-replacement-pictorial.128163/

Casually reading this.... GF's 99' MT has developed a light rumble while driving... could it be that UJ on it's way out? Can the freeplay be felt by hand?

The AT trans radiator fitted my MT perfectly, no bother with the nipples, so Ido, tnxs for your tip. Did a timing belt change while there, was all a pretty easy job honestly, much easier to do than on my 1st and 2nd gen legacies due to all radiator screws being at the top, just disconnect hoses and plugs, and it's off in a jiffy, then drop in inot the holes just as easy

tnxs! now i understand what were the two tiny nipples that came with another aftermarket radiator i got back at the time for my 2nd gen leg! indeed, I never used them.... thought they were for heating sytem.... never had an auto in my life

Good day The leaking crimping on my 2004 2.0X MT radiator is getting worse, time for a new radiator Would like to go with OEM quality DENSO, a bit unclear if there are differences at all between the radiator of the M and A/T. Denso catalog says, M, then other models M/A..... Main reason i am asking is that i am able to get the DRM36002 at half the price of the DRM36001 or DRM36004, dimesnionaly they seem all the same Wonder if anyone is aware of difference between MT and AT radiators... tnxs

95% Viscous coupling inside the gearbox gone.... regretfully not a super cheap fix. Had to change it in my girlfriend's forester, means gearbox out and changing the component.

ok, had a deeper check and turns out that ruville (link in my first post) is a german company that belongs to the schaeffler concern of INA and FAG bearings. They claim to be "made in germany", so that's kinda ensuring. Will tell you once i get it if there's a "made in china" stamping in the small print

tnxs ido always compressed the tensioner slowly, even over 15-20 minutes, so that's not an issue, didnt know about the tensioner swap.... ciao from italy TG

tnxs guys parts geek kit looks similar to the one in my link, also in price BTW, i completely agree that the idler on the tensioner should be changed too, but in the tensioner itself, there are no bearing to speak off or parts that wear as you can see here, for the EJ20 gen1 leg motor you can get just the idlers, including the one that sits on the tensioner no tensioner mechanism forced down your throat https://www.autoparti.it/ina/2384801

Hello all got a new belt and water pump for next change in my 2004 90K miles forester, but stupid me, no idler wheels. Is there anyone selling a reasonably priced kit of just the idlers? I seem to find only full kits with tensioner mechanism too (like this one https://www.autoparti.it/ruville/7742820 ) In 14 years of EJ20 1st and 2nd gen Leg ownership never changed the tensioner mech itself, cant see the reason why my (new to me) SG forester would be different even if the tensioner mechanism is different. tnxs!

yes, i know these are not subarus, but as i live in italy found it quite odd that two japanese imports would top the chart. i travel for work to USA every now and then and although i can see hondas are more popular than suabrus, they must be behind corollas in sheer numbers. maybe because they are kind of racy for joy rides?

who would have guessed? the even more interesting bit is that most of the two top stolen models are from 97'-98' 2nd legacy owners beware! https://www.statista.com/chart/6551/the-10-most-stolen-cars-in-america/

also remove and clean the idle air valve, my 95' leg would die occasionally when coasting to a stop, cleaning deposits with thinners solved it,

had good experience with PC based Scanmaster, upon connecting it lets you see a list of available ECU you can choose to connect to www.wgsoft.de

hello All My recently bought 04' sits too low in the rear, like 415mm unloaded (435mm is the service manual spec), and struts feel like lost damping too . I am going with regular KYB shocks but was thinking about matching with the "heavy duty" springs they offer. can get them at very reasonable price. Can anyone confirm that the KYB 334345 L / 334344 R shocks will work with the heavy duty RA6028 springs? the stock springs in KYB's catalog are RC6431 numbers are taken from this useful links, just in case its of help to anyone http://kyb-europe.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/KYB-2018-Shock-Absorbers-Version-A.pdf http://kyb-europe.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/KYB-2018-Coil-Springs.pdf Tnxs for your input!

interesting update reading in forums about all kinds of "no connection to ECU" issues through android apps, decided to give it a try through my laptop's BT with a windows application. So with ScanMaster ELM was able to get my codes, so quite interesting that these known problems with cheap ELM327 BT dongles, might be related in many cases to the program doing the reading rather than the HW. Cant say that all the functionalities in the program work, it still shows some issues as it connects through "unkown protocol" but that might be because my car has an additional LPG ECU that might confound the scanner. In any case, my MIL on turns out to be related to the upstream A/F sensor heater (P0051), so that's being replaced as soon as i get the part + special socket

i towed with my 1st and 2nd gen 2.0 legacies 5MT euro model my motorocycle on a trailer with quite a bit of other gear on (gazebo, etc) while car was fully loaded, all up and down italy no problem, but that's maybe 1200 pounds total towed, 2500 doesnt sound too safe. whatever you decide, beyond total weight what's really critical is weight on the hook. try to balance load in the trailer so you have no more than 200 lbs resting on it.

Hello guys Decided to take a chance on one of those super cheap ELM327 BT dongle and using it with Torque Pro, but get "no connection to ECU" no matter what. Tried also the tip i've read about of setting the iso9141 protocol instead of the code autoscan... nada. No big deal, just a few $ lost.... Does anyone have an ebay link to a cheap ELM327 BT dongle known to work on subarus, a 2004 forester 2.0X with NA EJ20 in my case? tnxs in advance! TG

not to hijack, but out of curiosity... i have an early leg SW like you. what device do you use to get the codes? Tnxs Y

hi guys well, at the end it turned out that it had the old style rebuildable coupling so i count myself lucky. Went to this super friendly small Subaru specialist that i know and it all cost around 500$ including coupling rebuild and labour, Regretfully for most, he is located near Lake Como in Italy, so of help only to italian subaroids, doubt if there many (or any...) of us here, but just in case: www.autoklaus.com i usually do all of my wrenching, but being on crutches following a motorcycle accident, just couldnt do it this time, would have been a bit of a stretch for me anyway.... tnxs again for your info

tnxs for the info guys. so number location would be as in the pic right? do i need to order other parts to do the job? havent seen a really good description of the work but sounds like its an on-the-car job. whats not clear to me is if all the transfer case needs to come off or if by just removing the end cover i can change the coupling tnxs again TG

Oh well, my girlfriend's otherwise perfect 99' forester started doing that strange on off rumbling noise in tight turns... Lifted the wheels one at a time to do the torque test and yes, it grabs then releases, so 99.9% it's a viscous coupling gone. now for the ID issue, according to this well put together guide : https://www.alldrivesubaroo.com.au/gearbox/subaru-centre-differential/ i have a hard time knowing if i have the 91'-98' TY752 gerabox that uses the early type coupling or or the TY754, 755, 757, 758 1999 - current gearbox that uses the newer type coupling (scroll to middle of the page) the opposed forces PL even shows three options to the transfer case http://opposedforces.com/parts/forester/en_s10/type_1/manual_transmission/mt_transfer_and_extension/ Is there anyway to know from the vehicle ID what type of gearbox/coupling i need? VIN JF1SF5LJ4XGxxxxx shows it's an SF5 forester from late 99, any way to know for sure what coupling type should i look for? tnxs in advance! TG

ok, "problem" solved nothing more than flipping the parking light switch on top of the stering coloumn.... looks lik ei touched it while cleaning the interior! a short search revealed the secret in a youtube video