turboguzzi

mmm... the inner (DOJ) joint in my STI axled legacy is torn, the opposedforces fiche show a part number only for the CV joint (14) http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g11/type_7/suspension_and_axle/front_axle/illustration_2/ for some reason the "b1" inner boot doesnt have a number.... so is this part number (28323FE001) just the outer boot of is it for a kit for both inner and outer? not that i am fixed on original parts, so if anybody's got a link to an ebay shop, that'l be welcome too couldnt find any so far... cheers & grazie mille! TG, milan, italy

checking over a long trip/full tank of highway will give you a much better idea if you have bad mpg. city driving can have so many variables. if you get 26-27 highway then you dont have much to worry about.

great, tnxs for the tip!

well, looks like i am going to be using OB struts + stiffer srpings made here in italy by a company called ORAP. but in the meantime, was also reading about DIY raiser blocks, so being a DIYer myslef had to give it a try! 1hour work in the workshop to make 1.25" raisers using a template file found on here, and amazingly, less than an hour to fit without even taking the struts out, just by lifting the car and letting the struts drop. car now looks like a proper SW job, back higher than front rather than the other way round, same stance as my good old gen 1, pretty amazed it was so easy. like many say, 1.25" is pretty much the limit, simply because of the brake hose length, gave it some extra slack by bending the tab on the shock with vise grips. if OB struts will result in the same height, then definetely thats the next step

+1, dislogged it once while working, thought engine was toast.... rather fat rubber hose should attach to a stub in the manifold casting.

tnxs fairtax mine is a AWD reflects what i see on the street.... so many legs kinda sit low on the back. i am located in italy so USA/Australia suppliers would be expensive shipping for me. But turbo impreza springs do come up every now and then on ebay here, any chance that these could fit? (assuming they are a stiffer rate than mine)

ok, tnxs!

did some pocking around, and it looks like much of the stuff is for serious lifting at both ends, whereas i am looking only for just a little bit more at the back under loaded conditions. The car sees only paved roads and i am not a beer drinker (i load it up mostly for motorcycle road racing weekends, not a good mix with alcohol ) .... so not really seeking more suspension travel looks like my setup is going to be stock struts, maybe stiffer springs and DIY 1" lifter blocks. Will do the blocks during this week, and will give them a try in the weekend before ordering the shocks. can anybody say if ill be able to slide them over the struts with them in place? was thinking of simply unbolting the three M8 bolts, lifting the car, let the struts drops a bit and see if i can fit them in. Doable?

ok, thanks guys is there any online catalog/list that has strut and springs lengths for reach model? that thread cited some minor differences in the struts between Leg, OB and forester, any show stoppers in there? cheers TG

I often run the car fully loaded and with trailer, and rear shocks gave the ghost car also seemed always to sit a bit low at the back, specially compared to my gen 1 that was actually higher there. (boy, how i miss it....) so it sounds like a slightly stiffer spring and longer strut is what i need. now then, i tried to read through this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146192-lifting-my-95-legacy-sedan/?hl=%2Blegacy+%2Brear+%2Bspring&do=findComment&comment=1227928 but couldn't understand the bottom line really... sounds like by mixing the right stock subaru components from other models this can be achieved but not really sure which car is a european 1995 2ng gen leg 2.0L 5MT SW, normal suspension. i use the stock 14" rims with stock sized winter tires and alloy 15" with 195/60 summer tires. lets say tire internal clearance not an issue. whit the car sitting low at the back, i do get some light rub on the outside when bottoming, another reason for wanting a higher/stiffer rear end. can anyone describe clearly how to make this type of upgrade using outback/forester stuff? I always have the option of simply turning on a late a 1"-1.5" spacer to put above the spring as a DIY solution. tnxs in advance!

not worried about bending valves, as i said before, one bank was advanced one tooth to begin with for quite a while and no damage occurred. bending valves in tuned motors (like in one of texans' links) is related to retarded exh closing with hot cams, i know this from my bike race motors that are really on the limit in that sense. that shouldn't be a problem with ADVANCED timing. being a single cam motor, in/ex overlap is not changing either, so no danger for valve clash either. Only showstopper is how will the cam sensor / ECU react. I dont mind living with a red light in the dashbord for an error code, but not with missfiring.... so fairtax, essentially you are saying that the one tooth advance at the cam wheel will cause a misfire? interesting as over the life of a belt there's surely a bit of de-sync occurring as the belt stretches and the tensioner takes up the slack... I believe that the cam sensor would have quite a high tolerance for allowing that. so here's the one thing i cant find the answer for: What's the REAL task of the cam sensor? the spark event is surely timed off the crank sensor, I bet my you know what on that. There's no way spark would be allowed to drift according to belt wear. So to me it looks like: Option 1 - it's a safety thing that just tells the ECU cam is waaayy off or not turning. Option 2 - The above + it also times the injection event. Actually in the second case, it would be great as it will maintain the right relationship between injection timing and inlet valve open/close. But surely if it will cause a misfire it's a no-no....

ok, finally the hot topic,,,,, the cam sensor though i for one think that it is the crankshaft sensor that sends the key ign/inj timing event and that the cam sensor was more for a warning in the event of a belt failure. this also makes more sense to me as if the cam sensor was controlling spark and injection, any elongation/wear in the belt would send them off spec.... by your logic, those belt tensioners linked by lucky texan would throw everything off tune. so here's a more focused question to the experts: what is the task of the cam sensor? is it just to control that the cam is generally rotating or does it also send a timing signal? and if off by 7-8 degrees, then would it confuse the ECU ?

hei fairtax when you think about it, al there is to it is calculating how much bigger the tensioning roller's diameter need to be in order to pull the belt the ammount needed to create the advance required and simply turning on a lathe a bigger sleeve. Y've done something similar on a Rotax 500 single motor for flat track to compensate for lower deck height, it also has toothed belt cam drive.

those adjusters are sure neat. could easily be of use to get less or more. i've counted the teeth on the crank sprocket from a picture and it seemed like 25 = 50 at the cam, i might be wrong of course. surely the beuaty of my proposal is that it's zero cost. Maybe this wasnt so clear in my post: The car HAS been already running for something like 15K with one side advanced, (belt was replaced by PO at 55K and i bought the car with 70K) no damage to the engine whatsoever, after setting the timing right, i've done already another 50K. Car doesnt consume oil, does 26-27 mpg. If the advance would have done any damage it would have shown by now. pretty tempted to try but keep your thoughts coming

tnxs texan i relate the bit lumpy idling to the fact that it was only one side that was advanced. I agree with the compromise thing, essentially saying that in my case, since i am often towing a trailer with a bike + car fully loaded, i'd rather compromise top end a bit for better low end.

ok, here's the story When I bought my 2nd legacy almost three years ago, car drove really great (still does), pulling better than my previous 1st gen, the only gremlin being a slightly lumpy idle (which changing plugs didnt cure). oh well i thought, can live with that with the car being a super clean 2nd gen leg with just 70K on the odo. A month later, while taking the timing belt off to replace the leaking dreaded o-ring seal at the oil pump, I discover that one bank of cylinders had the timing pulley advanced by one tooth....(i.e. intake open earlier, exh. closing earlier) I happily restore everything to stock, thinking about how incompetent some car mechanics are and how much better it will run now. well, after the work it indeed idled perfectly, but..... what do you know, pull from down low was actually better before fixing the bad valve timing... at least by seat of the pants it went back to pulling as my previous Leg did. And yes, i checked a few times, it is rightly timed now, it was 1 tooth off before... 50K on, the car is still a great runner but i thought back at the time that considering i dont give much importance to top HP , i'd be happy to have more torque down low. So why not advance valve timing for the complete engine? after all, even with just one side advanced i could tell it was pulling better at low-medium revs. As i tune road race motorcycles, building my own motors, i am quite used to cam degreeing and usually retard cams for better top end power. so essentially i want to try the opposite. could even bring the bonus of better fuel economy. I am near now to the car's second belt change at 120K, so really willing to give this a try on my 1995 european 2.0 5MT, the camshaft pulley has 50 teeth, so a 1 tooth advancing equals 7.2 degs, not a whole lot actually. ignition and injection events are governed by the crank sensor, my main doubt is if the cam sensor will "fell" something strange. What do to the motor masters among us think? pros, cons, risks (engine is definitely non interference) or will it end in tears? tnxs in advance for your feedback

ok, thanks

mmm.... cant find this area in opposed forces online microfiches.... this shot is taken form the worskshop manual anyone knows the part number for o-ring number 2? + any links to more complete microfiches would be welcome Grazie mille TG 95 2.0 leg SW

well, it's been a while but while searching for pads, came across this german site who serves all of europe and prices for most consumables like CV's, bearings, belts, filters are REALLY cheap, like cheaper than int'l ebay stuff http://www.pkwteile.de/ just choose the right flag

tnxs guys, useful info seems now like they are common with toyota and others cheers and ciao TG

been quiet lately as my 2nd gen leg continues to rack up the miles without fuss just completed 16,000 miles since installing the LPG system a year ago, essentialy amortized it finally, so from now on i am really driving at half the cost of petrol. neat. back to the topic title, the stock speaker in the right door is making squeaqing noises at some frequencies. would like to purchase one before tearing into the door, so i can swap it in one go. does anybody know the specs for the stock main speaker? diameter, watts, ohms? it's part 1 here http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b11/type_23/electronic/audio_parts_speaker/ quick search for the stock part get's me up to 60$ in europe. second question: is panel number 31 removable without removing the complete door trim? would make everything simpler, just dont want ot be yanking at parts and breaking them needlesly http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b11/type_23/body_equipment_interior/door_trim/illustration_1/ tnxs in advance! TG

tnxs john, just what i wanted to hear :) any nay sayers out there?

Well, it was cheap on ebay so i said, lets give it a try.... got this cheap set of axles off a 2002-2004 turbo impreza in very good condition and want try them in my old 2nd gen leg 5MT SW. splines wise, no problem. same only issue i see is that collapsed total length of the shaft is about 5mm/0.2" longer than my original Leg axles. Cant believe that mama subbie designed such a tight tolerance for shaft length, so i think it's be safe to try, but of course main worry is if these 0.2" are enough to make something solid hit in full bump (that's when the DOJ is fully into the cup). these shafts look so much more robust that it'd be great if they'd worked! your thoughts?

Tnxs guys and Ok, guess i wasnt so clear..... essentially have two axles with good outer CV's but NO DOJ's.... strange but true, long story. and sure, boots/bellows are not a problem, i buy them at the subaru dealer, they are the best quality indeed. bottom line, am trying to acquire JUST THE DOJ. Never seen them sold alone but googling up and down I discovered this aussie site that shows "Inner CV" available. http://www.repcotrade.com.au/files/dmfile/DriveshaftCatalogue.pdf look in the subaru section and see them listed next to "outer cv" and "shaft assembly", so sounds like this guys do sell them separately. trouble is australia is a bit far, wonder if they are availabl elsewhere.

I know that they just don't go and that in theory there are no replacement inner DOJ's as such.... but, are we really sure that nobody makes them? Reason i ask is that i got two nice axles with good outer CV's and no inner DOJ's due to blown bellows, would be nice to find just the inner DOJ's to fix them and keep them as a backup. sure you can get complete axles off junkyards and new ones easily in the USA, but I am located in Italy tnxs TG