turboguzzi

actually it was in that forum that i found also a list, but none of the dimensions worked on my system, they were all pointing at 2.4 mm rings, mine were much thinner. must be for other models. found them here: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/44938-c-air-conditioning-oring-o-ring-sizes-log-only-no-replies.html problem solved for the time being by "feel", car filled this morning and cools great, lets see how they hold and if any one does have the OEM dimensions, he is welcome to post

was asking because the old ones are totally set into a deformed triangle/round/square section, you know what i am talking about .... thought there was a chance that someone happened to have measured OEM ones before fitting will go with feel/fit/eyebal like always, was just trying to be more scientific tnxs in any case

decided to follow a member's advice and change the A/C o-rings before a recharge got a neat 270 kit to choose from, and still, could be cool if someone actually knew what are the sizes, so it's not a trial and error thing and yes, did some googling, but the one thread were i saw o-ring dimensions they were definitely not for my model (1995 Leg SW MT5) the three different sizes P/N are: 73039AA060 73039AA080 73039AA090 thanks i advance! TG

indeed, asking myself and forum members if to let go off my 2nd gen leg and buy that 3rd gen 2.5 leg in the ad it's got already the Liquid Petroleum Gas kit installed, like my current car has, which cuts fuel costs by half here, so that's a big plus. and with about 120K miles its just run in think i am going to see the car anyway. but are there any immediate signs if the motor has HG problems like bubbles in the radiator or water condensation in the oil cap?

hei river long time.... does that OBW run on LPG too? dont know about Holland but here in italy you can get fined for non std tire diemnsions, insurance could ever refuse compensation in an accident. had at least one routine police check where the officer compared whats written in the car documents to the actual tire size.... maybe in NL they are more forgiving

tnxs texan, but the car had a light front collision in it's past so it could be the A/C radiator too. and like i said, car interiror is kind of tired too, finding a decent driver seat quite difficult, no easy fix for that so back to my initial question..... go for a car with ej251 or not ?

the story in a nutshell: My current 2nd gen 1995 EJ20 legacy SW (i'm in europe..) is just fine mechanically, the only reason i'm thinking of changing it are interiors in really bad shape and an AC system that cant hold a charge for more than a month, just the kind of stuff i hate working on.... would like to go buy a 1st gen like my first leg, but these are becoming super rare here if not downright impossible to find... Came across this my 2000 3rd gen leg with 100k miles, only issue is that it's a EJ251 (i guess) https://www.autoscout24.com/offers/subaru-legacy-lpg-grey-f4385e51-ed8c-d83f-e053-e250040a8b5f?cldtidx=3 waht do you guys say? worth taking the risk of a car with the 2.5L engine or better keep looking for a EJ20 engined one? (EJ22 are almost non existent in europe) tnxs!

tnxs guys we wanted to do some white trails in the weekend but weather really sucked.... anyway, my girlfriend took to it like fish in water, loves it, specially the sun roof, even if we saw mostly drain drops on it only trouble she was having was adapting to the more precise clutch engaging when shifting. We all drive manuals here in italy but her opel was softer than the forester in that sense. She was getting smoother as the weekend passed. so yes, it's a 5MT with dual range.

could be also the usual oil pump seal / bolts coming loose

It's a 1999 2.0L 5MT forester, 106K miles, not very loaded with extras but that electric sunroof surely makes up for it! it has a 12 galon Gas tank in place of the spare wheel, just like in my Leg, and overall makes the only two decalred highly believable. On the way to her place I did a little bit of "Italian Tuning", i.e. kept her almost pinned down for 15 minutes at 110 MPH on the auotstrada to get rid of all the crap and deposits, engine indeed felt even nicer after the high speed blast. My 95' Leg is in good health and has the same EJ20 motor, so am quite amazed at how much stronger this Forester's motor feels. My lady is pretty chuffed with her new toy, let hope it holds up as well as it looks.

When my girlfriend's Opel Astra 1.7 Turbo diesel SW started giving her some grief a year ago i told her that her next car will be a subaru forester.... In the last ten years that we are together she already knew to appreciate subbie quality form my two leagacies Well, her Opel's ECU gave up the ghost two weeks ago so i jumped on italy's popular search engine and unbelievably, found exactly what we were looking for at first try Reqs were: 1st series Forester (coolest looking IMHO) No more than 100K miles LPG (Liquefied petroleum gas) system already installed Well, so here she is:

nice fellows smashed the rear passenger window of my 95's Leg SW, took my GF's tablet, etc. while we were out pedaling by the river. oh well, life i guess... broken window went out easy , am having more of an issue inserting the used window i found back into the slot due to the blue bearing wheel and front guide being wider than the slot.... ive taken out the two internal sliders of course, but stil cant see how to slot it in without using brute force on the metal sheet. any secret tips here that i am missing? workshop manual is not that detailed here.. tnxs in advance TG

great, mistery solved! looks like by part number i am aable to locate a supplier in europe. cool, tnxs again

tnxs fairtax, helpful as always regetfully partsgeek doesnt ship to italy.... and cant find any EMPI reseller in europe and the mistery of no part number for the inner boot remains open, seems to be the case all over the range, odd any other tips anybody? tnxs in advance

mmm... the inner (DOJ) joint in my STI axled legacy is torn, the opposedforces fiche show a part number only for the CV joint (14) http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/en_g11/type_7/suspension_and_axle/front_axle/illustration_2/ for some reason the "b1" inner boot doesnt have a number.... so is this part number (28323FE001) just the outer boot of is it for a kit for both inner and outer? not that i am fixed on original parts, so if anybody's got a link to an ebay shop, that'l be welcome too couldnt find any so far... cheers & grazie mille! TG, milan, italy

checking over a long trip/full tank of highway will give you a much better idea if you have bad mpg. city driving can have so many variables. if you get 26-27 highway then you dont have much to worry about.

great, tnxs for the tip!

well, looks like i am going to be using OB struts + stiffer srpings made here in italy by a company called ORAP. but in the meantime, was also reading about DIY raiser blocks, so being a DIYer myslef had to give it a try! 1hour work in the workshop to make 1.25" raisers using a template file found on here, and amazingly, less than an hour to fit without even taking the struts out, just by lifting the car and letting the struts drop. car now looks like a proper SW job, back higher than front rather than the other way round, same stance as my good old gen 1, pretty amazed it was so easy. like many say, 1.25" is pretty much the limit, simply because of the brake hose length, gave it some extra slack by bending the tab on the shock with vise grips. if OB struts will result in the same height, then definetely thats the next step

+1, dislogged it once while working, thought engine was toast.... rather fat rubber hose should attach to a stub in the manifold casting.

tnxs fairtax mine is a AWD reflects what i see on the street.... so many legs kinda sit low on the back. i am located in italy so USA/Australia suppliers would be expensive shipping for me. But turbo impreza springs do come up every now and then on ebay here, any chance that these could fit? (assuming they are a stiffer rate than mine)

ok, tnxs!

did some pocking around, and it looks like much of the stuff is for serious lifting at both ends, whereas i am looking only for just a little bit more at the back under loaded conditions. The car sees only paved roads and i am not a beer drinker (i load it up mostly for motorcycle road racing weekends, not a good mix with alcohol ) .... so not really seeking more suspension travel looks like my setup is going to be stock struts, maybe stiffer springs and DIY 1" lifter blocks. Will do the blocks during this week, and will give them a try in the weekend before ordering the shocks. can anybody say if ill be able to slide them over the struts with them in place? was thinking of simply unbolting the three M8 bolts, lifting the car, let the struts drops a bit and see if i can fit them in. Doable?

ok, thanks guys is there any online catalog/list that has strut and springs lengths for reach model? that thread cited some minor differences in the struts between Leg, OB and forester, any show stoppers in there? cheers TG

I often run the car fully loaded and with trailer, and rear shocks gave the ghost car also seemed always to sit a bit low at the back, specially compared to my gen 1 that was actually higher there. (boy, how i miss it....) so it sounds like a slightly stiffer spring and longer strut is what i need. now then, i tried to read through this thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146192-lifting-my-95-legacy-sedan/?hl=%2Blegacy+%2Brear+%2Bspring&do=findComment&comment=1227928 but couldn't understand the bottom line really... sounds like by mixing the right stock subaru components from other models this can be achieved but not really sure which car is a european 1995 2ng gen leg 2.0L 5MT SW, normal suspension. i use the stock 14" rims with stock sized winter tires and alloy 15" with 195/60 summer tires. lets say tire internal clearance not an issue. whit the car sitting low at the back, i do get some light rub on the outside when bottoming, another reason for wanting a higher/stiffer rear end. can anyone describe clearly how to make this type of upgrade using outback/forester stuff? I always have the option of simply turning on a late a 1"-1.5" spacer to put above the spring as a DIY solution. tnxs in advance!

not worried about bending valves, as i said before, one bank was advanced one tooth to begin with for quite a while and no damage occurred. bending valves in tuned motors (like in one of texans' links) is related to retarded exh closing with hot cams, i know this from my bike race motors that are really on the limit in that sense. that shouldn't be a problem with ADVANCED timing. being a single cam motor, in/ex overlap is not changing either, so no danger for valve clash either. Only showstopper is how will the cam sensor / ECU react. I dont mind living with a red light in the dashbord for an error code, but not with missfiring.... so fairtax, essentially you are saying that the one tooth advance at the cam wheel will cause a misfire? interesting as over the life of a belt there's surely a bit of de-sync occurring as the belt stretches and the tensioner takes up the slack... I believe that the cam sensor would have quite a high tolerance for allowing that. so here's the one thing i cant find the answer for: What's the REAL task of the cam sensor? the spark event is surely timed off the crank sensor, I bet my you know what on that. There's no way spark would be allowed to drift according to belt wear. So to me it looks like: Option 1 - it's a safety thing that just tells the ECU cam is waaayy off or not turning. Option 2 - The above + it also times the injection event. Actually in the second case, it would be great as it will maintain the right relationship between injection timing and inlet valve open/close. But surely if it will cause a misfire it's a no-no....