turboguzzi

ok, finally the hot topic,,,,, the cam sensor though i for one think that it is the crankshaft sensor that sends the key ign/inj timing event and that the cam sensor was more for a warning in the event of a belt failure. this also makes more sense to me as if the cam sensor was controlling spark and injection, any elongation/wear in the belt would send them off spec.... by your logic, those belt tensioners linked by lucky texan would throw everything off tune. so here's a more focused question to the experts: what is the task of the cam sensor? is it just to control that the cam is generally rotating or does it also send a timing signal? and if off by 7-8 degrees, then would it confuse the ECU ?

hei fairtax when you think about it, al there is to it is calculating how much bigger the tensioning roller's diameter need to be in order to pull the belt the ammount needed to create the advance required and simply turning on a lathe a bigger sleeve. Y've done something similar on a Rotax 500 single motor for flat track to compensate for lower deck height, it also has toothed belt cam drive.

those adjusters are sure neat. could easily be of use to get less or more. i've counted the teeth on the crank sprocket from a picture and it seemed like 25 = 50 at the cam, i might be wrong of course. surely the beuaty of my proposal is that it's zero cost. Maybe this wasnt so clear in my post: The car HAS been already running for something like 15K with one side advanced, (belt was replaced by PO at 55K and i bought the car with 70K) no damage to the engine whatsoever, after setting the timing right, i've done already another 50K. Car doesnt consume oil, does 26-27 mpg. If the advance would have done any damage it would have shown by now. pretty tempted to try but keep your thoughts coming

tnxs texan i relate the bit lumpy idling to the fact that it was only one side that was advanced. I agree with the compromise thing, essentially saying that in my case, since i am often towing a trailer with a bike + car fully loaded, i'd rather compromise top end a bit for better low end.

ok, here's the story When I bought my 2nd legacy almost three years ago, car drove really great (still does), pulling better than my previous 1st gen, the only gremlin being a slightly lumpy idle (which changing plugs didnt cure). oh well i thought, can live with that with the car being a super clean 2nd gen leg with just 70K on the odo. A month later, while taking the timing belt off to replace the leaking dreaded o-ring seal at the oil pump, I discover that one bank of cylinders had the timing pulley advanced by one tooth....(i.e. intake open earlier, exh. closing earlier) I happily restore everything to stock, thinking about how incompetent some car mechanics are and how much better it will run now. well, after the work it indeed idled perfectly, but..... what do you know, pull from down low was actually better before fixing the bad valve timing... at least by seat of the pants it went back to pulling as my previous Leg did. And yes, i checked a few times, it is rightly timed now, it was 1 tooth off before... 50K on, the car is still a great runner but i thought back at the time that considering i dont give much importance to top HP , i'd be happy to have more torque down low. So why not advance valve timing for the complete engine? after all, even with just one side advanced i could tell it was pulling better at low-medium revs. As i tune road race motorcycles, building my own motors, i am quite used to cam degreeing and usually retard cams for better top end power. so essentially i want to try the opposite. could even bring the bonus of better fuel economy. I am near now to the car's second belt change at 120K, so really willing to give this a try on my 1995 european 2.0 5MT, the camshaft pulley has 50 teeth, so a 1 tooth advancing equals 7.2 degs, not a whole lot actually. ignition and injection events are governed by the crank sensor, my main doubt is if the cam sensor will "fell" something strange. What do to the motor masters among us think? pros, cons, risks (engine is definitely non interference) or will it end in tears? tnxs in advance for your feedback

ok, thanks

mmm.... cant find this area in opposed forces online microfiches.... this shot is taken form the worskshop manual anyone knows the part number for o-ring number 2? + any links to more complete microfiches would be welcome Grazie mille TG 95 2.0 leg SW

well, it's been a while but while searching for pads, came across this german site who serves all of europe and prices for most consumables like CV's, bearings, belts, filters are REALLY cheap, like cheaper than int'l ebay stuff http://www.pkwteile.de/ just choose the right flag

tnxs guys, useful info seems now like they are common with toyota and others cheers and ciao TG

been quiet lately as my 2nd gen leg continues to rack up the miles without fuss just completed 16,000 miles since installing the LPG system a year ago, essentialy amortized it finally, so from now on i am really driving at half the cost of petrol. neat. back to the topic title, the stock speaker in the right door is making squeaqing noises at some frequencies. would like to purchase one before tearing into the door, so i can swap it in one go. does anybody know the specs for the stock main speaker? diameter, watts, ohms? it's part 1 here http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b11/type_23/electronic/audio_parts_speaker/ quick search for the stock part get's me up to 60$ in europe. second question: is panel number 31 removable without removing the complete door trim? would make everything simpler, just dont want ot be yanking at parts and breaking them needlesly http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/en_b11/type_23/body_equipment_interior/door_trim/illustration_1/ tnxs in advance! TG

tnxs john, just what i wanted to hear :) any nay sayers out there?

Well, it was cheap on ebay so i said, lets give it a try.... got this cheap set of axles off a 2002-2004 turbo impreza in very good condition and want try them in my old 2nd gen leg 5MT SW. splines wise, no problem. same only issue i see is that collapsed total length of the shaft is about 5mm/0.2" longer than my original Leg axles. Cant believe that mama subbie designed such a tight tolerance for shaft length, so i think it's be safe to try, but of course main worry is if these 0.2" are enough to make something solid hit in full bump (that's when the DOJ is fully into the cup). these shafts look so much more robust that it'd be great if they'd worked! your thoughts?

Tnxs guys and Ok, guess i wasnt so clear..... essentially have two axles with good outer CV's but NO DOJ's.... strange but true, long story. and sure, boots/bellows are not a problem, i buy them at the subaru dealer, they are the best quality indeed. bottom line, am trying to acquire JUST THE DOJ. Never seen them sold alone but googling up and down I discovered this aussie site that shows "Inner CV" available. http://www.repcotrade.com.au/files/dmfile/DriveshaftCatalogue.pdf look in the subaru section and see them listed next to "outer cv" and "shaft assembly", so sounds like this guys do sell them separately. trouble is australia is a bit far, wonder if they are availabl elsewhere.

I know that they just don't go and that in theory there are no replacement inner DOJ's as such.... but, are we really sure that nobody makes them? Reason i ask is that i got two nice axles with good outer CV's and no inner DOJ's due to blown bellows, would be nice to find just the inner DOJ's to fix them and keep them as a backup. sure you can get complete axles off junkyards and new ones easily in the USA, but I am located in Italy tnxs TG

man, unles its an EJ22 in that justy you are way off topic

it cost 1600 euro here too. with petrol vs gas in italy at 1.8 euro vs. 0.8 euro a liter, my break even point is around 25,000 km.

no DIY'ing of LPG install round here in italy..... specially since the car is taken for emissions testing after the installation. With sequential injection of the LPG too, there shouldnt be an explosion danger indeed, so I guess its more dangerous with a carb'd car? my car runs a romano kit: http://www.romanoautogas.it/?go=home&lang=English

I did an EJ20 in italy, getting the equivalent of 52 mpg based on $$$ read all about it here, http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134277 will be glad to help if i can

sure, it's a 95' gen2 Leg, I need little, 5A or so, 50W headlamp/park circuit not so good for my needs as in Euro models we can switch them off. was hoping for a point in the big relay box... Tnxs TG

sure it'd be easy just latching to the + post in the battery, but.... i need 12V only when the ignition is in ON position (i.e. engine running). any ideas as to where to hook cleanly will be welcomed Grazie mille TG

make two 3mm-4mm holes on the flat areas of the nut, it will weaken it considerably and make it split when you put torque on it i have often the same problem on the big clutch hub retaining nuts in motorcycle engines and its a relatively clean way to solve this the CV kits come with a new nut anyway

havent checked where the tube passes not doing too much dirt roads as much as i did with my 1st gen, so not that worried, but sure its worth checking i can already see that milleage is very related to outside temp just like the system manual said, this weekend was 4-5 celsius colder than last and milleage improved quite a bit

the only control/dial added is this little box next to the hand brake line with 5 leds on the top tells me tank fill level, G led means system is on LPG pump icon means its on petrol little square white button in center lets me switch between LPG and petrol, but car runs on LPG as default, switches to gas automatically if LPG runs out, so far so good...

sequential separate injectors, one per inlet runner ECU with separate mapping for the LPG sys supply pressure regulator ( i think...) gas "rail"

a bit more visuals of the install 44L/11 gallon tank sits in the spare wheel well some extra ventilation holes been added for safety in case of leak