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matt167

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Posts posted by matt167

  1. The knurling is done not for the same reasons it was invented. Not only do I do this about twice a week but I also own the Cadillac of knurlers (Perfect Circle Knurlizer). We started doing this because the factory piston skirts become scuffed and lose their Teflon coating. The knurling stabilizes the rings for better oil control by preventing the piston from rocking and it provides indentations to hold oil and act as a hydraulic buffer against the slapping - which will cause the knock sensing system to pull timing. Most of the knurling is actually filed off leaving only a slight increase on the barrel of the skirt and indentations to hold oil.

     

    It works very, very well. After we do this, piston slap never returns, and oil consumption is typically 0.25 to 0.50 quarts in 6k miles running full synthetic.

     

    You can speculating without real world results all you like but we have hundreds of very happy customers and this process is very popular. I'm sure you also believe in honing cylinders for ring seating because that's what everyone believes. It isn't true and hasn't been for 40 years. I have technical books from the 80s that state this emphatically - it should ONLY be done if using chrome rings or as a final stage in the boring process.

     

    As for spending more than 50% of the cars value being a basis on which you judge the vehicle no longer economically feasible.... that's laughable. Sure the car may be worth 5-6k but what repairs will be needed on the next car you buy for 5-6k? The old adage states "The cheapest car is almost always the one you already own". Someone is likely selling the next one you will buy for similar or worse reasons. There are very few out there for sale that have had the repairs done correctly and aren't hiding some ugly issue that will again be costly to repair at some point. Also you are saying throw away the car over a $3k bill and buy a car for $5k? Ok so you are obviously factoring in selling the broken car which you will get almost nothing for unless you do not disclose the needed repairs.... that's pretty shady and dishonest to do to the next guy. And if you sell it for it's real value and disclose that it has bad head gaskets you will get less than $1k (probably way less) and have to deal with people who buy cars at that price coming to your home or place of business..... it's a terrible situation.

     

    For most people it's better to just have a place like ours do the correct and lasting repair and just keep the car. We charge $2750 for a full re-ring job. That includes all 105k maintenance, etc. For just shy of $3k I can make than engine go another 250k with a 10mm oil pump, and a re-ring.

     

    And quite frankly - a LOT of people have the money to do this. We do approximately two or three a week... every week. For years now. And not a single one has come back with a head gasket failure or oil consumption issue. We do this day in and day out for a living. Trust me we know what works and what doesn't work.

     

    GD

    Nope, I knew that you don't need to hone cylinders when doing a re ring, and I also know that a ball hone can mess up a perfectly good bore with the wrong operator, hence why I didn't mention it.. I understand the concept behind knurling for that reason, but I still wouldn't do it to my car. I'd rather replace the slugs at that point.

     

    I wasn't suggesting getting rid of the car.. Rather opening up the engine beyond head gaskets for a 1-2k premium ' just because ', simply just do the head gaskets. Sure it might rattle while cold or use a bit of oil, but the car would still make 200+ thousand miles... Where I am, probably 75% of the cars are Subaru and many of those are pre 2005 and those types of repairs would never sell even if they were offered.. JMHO. Different markets probably

  2. This thread got off track IMO. OP came in asking about head gaskets and other general maintenance, and got suggested basically an engine rebuild.. A car like this in good condition is worth what, $5-6k in the right market? I know that's what it would bring here in the snow belt, at a Subaru specialized dealer that imports clean cars from southern states.

     

    IF the engine really did need some work ( and I doubt it does, at least to live it's useful life ), I wouldn't recommend Knurling the pistons. That was and has always been considered something just to get an old engine going again, back when cars lasted 50-75k miles or less before the engine was pooched.. It has been out of practice for ~30 years. Shops that still offer the service are normally knurling pistons that are otherwise NLA. vintage Snowmobiles and other vintage engines ect.. A shop generally charges $10-20 for the service per piston. Nor would I recommend spending 50% of the value of a vehicle on major engine repair.That's where the JDM EJ20 comes in. Sure you have to wind them up more, but their max RPM is still 6,250 just like USDM. They are better with a 5spd but you can have a reliable vehicle again at 50% the cost. All of them offer at least a 3 month warranty on engines if installed at a shop and failure would likely come before that.. If you have the money, burn it. But not many do. Spending $3k just because is foolish, unless your thinking of taking a vehicle to 300k miles or better.

  3. My opinion is, before spending thousands on a rebuild using knurled pistons. Simply stick in a jdm ej20. Have shop install so you get full warranty. $800-1000 engines come with good warranties. If your feeling lucky, you can spend as little as $500 if you negotiate an importer. $600 engines are easy to find but they are less willing to stand behind at that price

    • Like 1
  4. I'm late to the party, but do not use gator grips for brake line. Gator grips are not designed for high pressure at all and are not legal for use. You could be held criminally negligent if something bad were to happen. That said, those flaring tools are garbage. The cal van tools inline flaring tools are great, and you only need the 3/16" die and block kit for subie brakes. About $25. Pair that with nicopp brake line which is easy to cut and flare, its the quickest brake lines you will run

    • Like 2
  5. Pretty sure the answer is no and yes at the same time. They are very close but the body lines are different, hood latch might not be the same, but it should bolt to the hinges and you could probably make it latch..

     

    If it's a matter of you have a messed up hood, and can't find the right hood, then by all means try it

  6. Got this new problem. Good Friend of mine found a tree with the drivers door of her car. Small tree, slid of her steep driveway. She always comes to me for help.. Door is damaged and window broke but that seems to be it.. Will a wagon fit a sedan? Iknow the window will be different. She has glass coverage so I'm having her get a new window anyway. That will get it back on the road. Its a 2004 wrx sedan. Has cold weather pack too

  7. Once you get down to one code. You get your scanner that can check emissions readieness. Reset your codes and go for a drive. My experience is EVAP is the last test to ready. Emissions will pass as 'ready' with 1 test not ready. You just gotta get to an inspection station right then.. So its the easiest to deal with, without dealing with it. But also, a garage with a smoke machine could find the leak in a few mins.

  8. It won't, but it would let the weaker trans last longer. Clutch/ trans would only suffer if it was hammered

     

    Plenty of Impreza turbo swaps use " RS " transmissions and hold up with weaker clutches, like they are special, but we all know they are Outback/ Forester/ RS/ GT 4.11 transmissions. I guess the lower gear probably helps keep a load off of the transmission gears by applying the torque to the street faster.

     

     

    My advice would be to go with another turbo 5spd. You can use any turbo 5spd you want ( USDM or JDM ) that you can find as long as you match the rear axle ratio.

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