matt167
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Posts posted by matt167
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It looks pretty good... Looks that is. Something has kept it from being driven or sold for a long time and that usually means mechanical faliure. Black oil and low coolant nails it. On a car which has not been made for over 25 years, that means the only economical way to get one going is using a running parts car... It was built off the Japanese Kei car platform so it's not related to any other USDM Subaru.
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The Justy pretty much, was a stretched and widened KEI car.. It was based off the Subaru REX. They added 2 cylinders to the 550cc EK23 engine basically and it became the 1.0L Justy engine
Really the car sucked so bad that they made them 10 years, then cancelled the USA market after only a few years ( 1987-1994 ) and then from 1995- on, had other vehicles re badged
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dealer, their cheap
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Need the 2005 heads and intake, you could use the 2.2L short block though it is not ideal
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I currently have the tripletreds on my Subaru, they tend to pack with snow here in Colorado. Performance seems to drop off after about 50% tread wear.
That's pretty much our experience too. There ok, but overpriced.
The Advantage T/A is an excellent tire. We have sold many sets since they were introduced. I don't think you can go wrong.
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Master is NLA but a WRX one should work. Was used JDM/ EDM only
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OHTSU is made by Falken as their value line..
Tripletread is an ok tire, we don't sell too many because it's expensive.. The T/A sport is a good tire
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My shop sells Continental. Or rather we can order them in for customers. They are garbage, overpriced crap. They might have decent traction when new, but Continental uses a soft rubber compound ontop of a harder compound to keep tires that will last. Some other companies do that too. They only have good traction for 1/4 the time they will last.. The only good part of Continental is the 30/60 day satisfaction guarantee.. A number of times, Customers have used their satisfaction guarantee to get something else..
I would recommend the General Altimax RT43. It's great on Subaru and what we normally recommend even though it's not a tire we have in stock
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1999 is maf, 2000-1 is map. Not going to work well. Try something else first
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I've now pulled the engine and chucked it up on my stand. Went through the parts she has in the way they left them. Everything is there except the new timing belt she bought and a few bolts I know are missing... But, pulled clutch to put the stand on, and it's junk. Factory exhaust manifolds are junk rusted crap. Up pipe is the stock catted pipe so it's junk even if it's not. Turbo has oil in it, so it needs a cartridge.
Becomes a point of, get it running cheap or send it down the road.. The car itself is still good in appearance and the underside is spotless but I feel the rocker covers are hiding ugly since there is slight evidence as it is with them on
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Single port 1996 and after. Pistons different 1997-1998. I don't think there are any other identifiers. 1997-8 are interference. Oh wait. 1996 is hla lifter, 1997-8 are solid.
You can change tensioner type with the bracket. Either fits an ej22e
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It was drinking oil. Just figuring they probably have ring issues. Could have been head gaskets doing it though. I knew the engine was gonna have an issue at some point and then it did.. I think ill re ring them at least.
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I think the best bet for me, is to get a new set of pistons for her EJ205, and check the valves, buy a set if needed. Looks like at best it would be around a $250 setback... I wouldn't be using any aftermarket hop up stuff..
This way I won't be giving up my engine
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I agree, but she was dead set on a WRX when she was looking. Would not take a regular Impreza. But she was also more financially stable then. She also owes the bank for another year.. I'm actually the one who told her to get this car when I looked it over. It was all stock in and out. She got 2 years nearly trouble free.
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She knows she made a huge mistake.
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I know he was cranking the engine over trying to remove the bolts from the back side of the flywheel.. She had told me he needed a " special tool " to get those bolts out, with a pic he took of it, and I was like " Uhh, NO that's backwards ".. It was shortly after that he gave up because he couldn't figure it out, and she had to work on getting car up here.
He also made her buy head bolts because he thought they were one time use. I had told her to tell him, no they were not and to take the car from him if he refused because he could mess up the torque sequence since he didn't know chit. and I had also provided the FSM for her car to her, so that she could give it to him. Still he made her buy them, and they are cheap aftermarkets I'm not sure I want to use anyway.
How it happened was, he ran a local detailing/ minor exterior repair shop for a short time. She knew him vaguely and had an appointment to have him install her headlights she got. Head gaskets blew earlier that day, and she still went to the appt on her way back to her house, and then he started helping her with it doing amateur stuff ( thermostat, try bleeding ect... ). Then said he could do the head gaskets for little money. So he really did use his business model, to realistically wreck the car.
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Even with the starter, there's a pretty good chance the valves were closed.
It sounds like in it's current state of disassembly, it's not much extra work to pull the heads and check for damage. And a very good chance it survived.
Yeah, I'm going to pop them off and see..
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There is no reason you can't pul the timing covers and the belt before pulling the engine. If you set the Cams to unloaded you can roll the crank over all day long with the belts off. Just make sure not to go backwards or you can damage the oil pump.
I know a very competent local mechanic who chooses to do the headgaskets for subarus with the engine still in car. He uses a lift and does most work from underneath. Engine unbolted and shifted up off the crossmember. For reassembly, a short bungee cord stretched around the bolt heads will hold them halfway out of the head while they are slipped into place between the block and framerail. He warranties his work but has never had to redo one. JUst comfortable with a different way. Still perfectly acceptable method.
Not my preference, I pull the engine.
I don't understand why you would need a new longblock? Worst case from what you described is vavle damage from not setting the cams to a proper position.
The guy was stuck trying to pull the clutch off the flywheel from the backside of the access hole ( the one for automatics ). Evidently thought he needed a special tool to pull those bolts off... Does that tell you anything?
He was going to pull engine. I'm not sure why he was doing what he was doing and I don't think even he knew.. I've pulled and replaced many Subaru engines and I would never think of pulling the timing set off prior. There is no reason
The engine prior was tired, used a TON of oil, likely cracked ring lands. Add in possible valve damage and who knows what, and the cheapest option out is a new used engine, which i have.. We were only going to try to limp the old EJ205 along anyway
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Deff not just trying to sell an engine, but I popped the hood and it was a "WTF" moment.. A normal shop wouldn't touch it the way it is.
I wouldn't doubt he may have bumped it with the starter.... I can pull it and check it though. She had bought a full gasket kit for it.
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A good friend of mine, finally got her car to me after the last person she had working on it gave up... Back story is we have always been really close, sorta complicated friendship... Head gaskets blew on her '04 WRX and I told her that is what was wrong. I was busy at the time but would have done the job. She did not want to bother me and had someone else she thought she could trust, attempt it.
All he did was probably $1-2k in damages as well as the car was keyed while on his property. Pulled intake and couldn't figure out how to get engine out.. She picked a real winner
Rotated the engine over with timing covers and belt removed. I'm not really sure why that would even be considered removed at that point. The engine has to come out anyway. But now, probably some valve issues at least. It has spun over
100% disassembled the intake, pulled A/C bracket entirely. Various sensors ect...
Pulled A/C pump rather than set aside...
Now, I'm the lucky one that gets to fix it, and the cheapest way for her is to buy my EJ205 off of me, and I'll long block it for her
The shop was humid enough that the aluminum on the block is getting corrosion and all the timing components are rusty, so I'm fairly positive the A/C system needs a drier at least
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A good friend of mine, finally got her car to me after the last person she had working on it gave up... Back story is we have always been really close, sorta complicated friendship... Head gaskets blew on her '04 WRX and I told her that is what was wrong. I was busy at the time but would have done the job. She did not want to bother me and had someone else she thought she could trust, attempt it.
All he did was probably $1-2k in damages as well as the car was keyed while on his property. Pulled intake and couldn't figure out how to get engine out.. She picked a real winner
Rotated the engine over with timing covers and belt removed. I'm not really sure why that would even be considered removed at that point. The engine has to come out anyway. But now, probably some valve issues at least. It has spun over
100% disassembled the intake, pulled A/C bracket entirely. Various sensors ect...
Pulled A/C pump rather than set aside...
Now, I'm the lucky one that gets to fix it, and the cheapest way for her is to buy my EJ205 off of me, and I'll long block it for her
The shop was humid enough that the aluminum on the block is getting corrosion and all the timing components are rusty, so I'm fairly positive the A/C system needs a drier at least
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So, I'm working on a '04 WRX that was in a 'not shop' for a head gasket job and timing belt just to get the car back on the road... And the guy working on it was a clueless monkey who claimed to have a clue but, had less than an incling of a clue... He gave up on it partially dissasembled but engine still in car
What we learn today is that you don't pull the timing covers and timing belt before pulling the engine, especially if you plan to roll the engine over...
Now essentially the best way out is a new or used long block. Since it was so tired anyway ( EJ207 was the eventual swap )
So yeah, Subaru's are also susceptible of incapable mechanics
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I have re welded bungs on cats before. I can do it blind on the car with a stick welder. It's not a big deal
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If the gaskets are not blown at the moment, I would just throw new gaskets in. Don't worry too much. May blow again but done properly will still last a while.. If your into this trying to make money, I can't imagine making much. Swapping pistons around won't be seen as a selling point and price won't reflect the effort.
Wheel lug nuts coming loose
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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If the wheel being loose ovaled the lug holes, the conical seat will not seat correctly and they will loosen.
Dealt with that on an older Chrysler Concorde where the wheels loosened up from never being tightened. Destroyed the seats and then the wheels would not stay tight until the rims were replaced