matt167
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Posts posted by matt167
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You would need a 1996-1998 EJ22E intake manifold with the 1998 harness to use your 1994 long block, but it will work... 1997-1998 Impreza wagon is pretty much same size as a Forester, and the dash/ electronics are the same. You'll have wire length issues and light connections won't be right but you can make it work... Speedo and tach both run through the ECU on a 2001.
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Phase 1 is 1990-1998 ej22e or 1996-1999 ej25d. All ej25 SOHC are phase 2 from 1999 on
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yes...it is indeed a 2001 in the pic. hence the factory sunroof/2001 reference. i just posted it for fun
not
sure what you mean "merge" an older ecu. unless you mean running in
tandem? this leads me to suspect you may still not understand what is
i'm asking at this point
Harness merge is extremely popular in Subaru usually to gain turbo engines.. Basically all the cars are close enough but different enough that nothing matches up perfectly if you were to just swap harnesses. What you end up doing is using most of the donor harness which is modified to fit the car your putting it into using remements of the harness you took out.. Things like cluster wiring, light wiring, HVAC wiring all need to be converted to the car your using by using those parts of the harness, matched up and spliced using diagrams ect...... It's an involved process that costs $800-1000 to have done professionally.
You could put a 1994 engine in a 2004 something doing it that way, with a couple big hiccups. One being your speedometer will not work without "hackery". 1994 as far as I know were all cable driven speedo, so speed sensor would have to have a seperate circuit as the harness will not have it. ALL of the HVAC is different and if you know the SG6 HVAC has the funky dial for the switch, you have to make all that work... The other big one is, you loose OBD-2 compatibility and then the value of it drops pretty much 100% if you ever wanted to sell, and you WILL hate this car when your done..
The only swap I would even consider for this crazy project is a 1998 Forester harness and cluster complete into 1999-2002 Forester. OR you could also use the wiring harness from a 1997-1998 Impreza wagon with some minor adjustment.
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That Forester is at least a 2001. Those tail lights were used 2001-2002 only, and the front is a little bit different than 1998-2000 too.. Sunroofs were not standard in 2001. I have a 2001 "S" with no sunroof and a 5spd with cold weather package. It's an odd one for sure
You could swap harnesses or merge an older ECU. People do that with the older Turbo ECU's in states that do not require to be plugged in for any inspection... But it would be a complete waste of time for a N/A EJ22E
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Ej22 after 1997 are all interference. Variable valve timing is where essentially the cams can retard or advance as beneficial to the hp or emissions. Subaru started in the USA with that in around 2006. It adds another layer to Subaru Lego.
An ej22e can run most any Subaru that uses the 6\7 triggers. Those ecu are jecs only. Up to about 2002 in a Forester.. However the phase 2 cars need some hokey work around with idle control and such.. If the car uses 36-2-2-2 trigger control, then its not.even going to spark or fire an injector
Your magic Forester is going to be a 1998. One year only. That's the one you need to seek if you wish an ej22e
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Driver side cam wheel. It might be different. Check opposed forces to be sure.
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You would need a JDM SOHC EJ20 or a USDM EJ253/251 or 252. Ej222 if you really wanted for the older Forester. Your engine will not work if it's a pre 1999 engine.. The 2008 uses active valve timing I think, so you need something even different than that.
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IF you made a set of intake adapters, the engine will run in SOME 1999-2002 cars. With intake adapters you would remove the incompatibilities.. Otherwise pre 1999 except 1999 DOHC
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Sorry, I should have specified. I'm talking about Forester STI which never came to the USA or outside of Japan and is different than WRX STI. They are pretty standard Non STI as far as fitment goes. The only parts I'm thinking about that would even be an STI specific part is the cast aluminum A arms which should fit just like the steel ones.. Brakes I'll likely just do H6 brakes which will bolt on, and use the same calipers as 2004-2005 WRX just with a different mount and rotor. Paint Calipers red or gold and call it good.. Rears will be good rebuilt stock disc brakes.
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Parking brake shoes are thin but staying together. Both wheels are off the ground and brakes removed and it's still really hard to rotate the hubs. Is there a carrier bearing on the drive shaft?
There is a carrier bearing, but a carrier bearing likely wouldn't do what you describe. You likely have an issue with the differential or transmission
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Those (small) brake-shoes for the parking-brake last a long time.
After all, they don't see much wear as they are normally set when the vehicle is stationary.
But over time, the brake-linings can separate (get unglued) from the steel shoe.
Never had one lock-up the wheel though.
I've seen it on other vehicles multiple times.. It can hit hard enough that you think you hit something
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Looks like there is an early and late 1999, and they use the same ECU numbers, but the programming is different.
2 recommendations I have. One is buy the intake manifold and wiring harness for a 2000-2002 Forester with a manual trans. Those cars were speed density and if your staying stock, you do not need to worry about the MAF sensor
2nd recommendation would be to buy Project Lambda tuning and tune the 5spd tune onto it. Other handy things the program can do besides tune the engine for better performance is, turn off the emissions systems so you can delete them and not have CEL's.
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Looks like, 2004- up FXT, 2005- up WRX and All USDM STI use a compatible alternator, And both variations are expensive. The part you likely need though, the diode pack/ rectifier looks to be about $85 and is probably available in the aftermarket. The alternator may or may not need soldering to replace the diodes. I've never done a Subaru. I have not needed to rebuild an alternator in a long time
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Parking brake shoe linings came apart
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I decided to finally jump in both feet with my '01 Forester and make the STI conversion happen. Friend with the WRX is pushing me too.. Have the EJ205/ 5spd that came out of a JDM Spec WRX Wagon or possibly a Type "M" STI Forester since only the type "M" was 5spd. Have an STI front cut and will soon have an STI or S/TB rear hatch with the wing so about 90% STI visually
Just ordered a brand new WRX/FXT crossmember from Partsouq. List was $186 so even with shipping, it's cheaper than SOA list price of $413.. I'm in at $299 shipped. I didn't want a crossmember from a wreck and places that had good crossmembers did not want to ship and the shipping cost they threw out was more than new cost..
I know that the FXT just used regular SG Forester A arms, but I think I want the Cast Aluminum STI arms since they are somewhat inexpensive. What do I do for struts on the front end? Do I go fully SG Forester up front? Do I simply order a sway bar and brackets for a Forester XT? I'm not going to do anything exotic with the brakes. Probably just new calipers, painted Red or gold with decent rotors and pads. Possibly 6cyl front brakes
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I think the $949 long blocks are early V7's, so they have single AVCS but can be run without as many of them do.. Might do a V5/6 though from a closer supplier though getting a good set of coils with a new engine would be good. Her coils are not so hot, and the jackwagon before busted one
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Yes, it is a chicks car, though she can out drive many people.
I've looked into VVT controllers. Greddy V manage will do it but at $400 it's cost prohibitive. And then I'm not sure the electronics will work with USDM EJ205. I think they are closer to USDM STI which would require machining as the same as EJ257 long block swaps require, for the EJ205 cam position sensor.
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The 04 WRX I'm working on, needs an engine. Got the heads off and found some bearing material up top. Pulled oil pan ( should have done that first ) and it's evident. Not bad, but bad enough that I know not to waste any more of my time ( I'm doing labor free to help a friend out )
JDM EJ205 long block at $949 shipped is about the cheapest drop in I can find, but I can find an EJ20Y for a little less than that. I know the 20Y/X is Dual AVCS and the cams need locked.. Can this be done? The HP figures for the engine are near EJ207 for much less coin... It almost seems too good to be true, so it probably is but still worth asking.
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It's A/C volts that does it. It won't always show the A/C voltage as 'extra' tho it can. If you switch it to A/C volts through the system you should be able to see some although at the alternator is best..
I've seen 5-6V A/C on alternators still charging and running the vehicle but with weird oddities
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1999 is one year only for a few things, and it's a good thing. 1999 uses a MAF instead of a MAP sensor. It does not use an air assist injector system which is really good. Beyond that it's pretty much the same as 2000-2002 mechanically. Heated seats and mirrors usually means cold weather package and that would come on an "S" model meaning disc brakes and viscous rear diff
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Voltage should never go above 14.4V. systems are not designed to handle it.. Going to 15V suggests there is a problem with the diodes... Turn DVOM to A/C volts and see how many volts you get between hot lead of alternator and the body of the alternator.. Should be .5V or less since it's A/C.. I bet with everything off, your reading 1.5V of A/C ripple and that's why your seeing 15v
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I wasn't sure. I know the 32-1-1 trigger means it's a Denso ECU and thus work on USDM EJ205 electronics minus needing plug wires.. Getting a set of DOHC plug wires with male coil ends might be impossible though. The EJ205 wires have a short and long side since the coil is offset.
No tuning available for the early Denso ECU's though so it has to be ran conservative.
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You can do anything you want with that. Sky is the limit with that chassis/ ECU when you mix in some tuning and JDM parts and what you need is not expensive.
The 1999-2000 EJ221/222 is MAF based, meaning it can adjust for boost up to a point without any tuning at all. 5-8 PSI will run on one of them. Use a voltage clamp, and a 6:1 RRFPR for safety.. You can't crank the boost with 10:1 but that is about the safe limit. You can go to RS25 to find plenty of builds. Problem you will have is the turbo parts don't actually fit. The Up pipe will not clear SOHC heads. There used to be someone making conversion up pipes but he quit doing it. He made them both Single and Dual port though.
What I would do is a 1998-2001 JDM EJ205. They are the ones sold as Non AVCS and have plug wires.. They are directly swappable into the 1999-2001's that have JECS ECU's ( you would need to check ) The idle air, throttle body and ignition and cam triggers all match what the 1999-2001's do with JECS ECU's. No surprise as they ran JECS ECU's.. After that, you can get Project Lambda tuning for about $400 and you then can tune the EJ205 to run on the factory ECU without a full harness swap. All you need to do is install your engine harness on the EJ205, possibly extend a wire or 2 and swap the USDM coil on as the connector is different.
dream car ponderings and questions
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Anything after 2002 is going to be harness merge... What happens in 2003-4 is that they used new dashboards and electronics throughout..
Forester used the facelift Impreza dash from 1998-2002 and Impreza used it 1997-2001.. In 2003 the Forester got it's own unique dashboard that does not go along with Impreza any longer, the HVAC is unique to the Forester of that era..