matt167
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Posts posted by matt167
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If it failed electrically yes.. Being a solenoid and not a sensor, I would expect 12v. Either power or ground is switched, but running you should see voltage on a voltmeter if you check... I would ohm the solenoid though, I bet it's failed open
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Black Roki filter would be what is available everywhere else other than USDM. The blue filters are made by Fram/ Honeywell to Subaru spec which obviously isn't very high except the 23 PSI requirement.. If you want to be different, you can import them for about $20 shipping through partsouq.com if you want a good OEM filter.
If you want just a good filter, Wix branded or Napa Gold..
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Yes match colors. I went the other way
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Oil pressure light stays lit 2-3 seconds after any start now. Pretty sure it has oil pressure issues now. Possibly why it feels like its locking up.. Stinks like oil all the time now, and sometimes like rotten eggs, but it has no cats right now
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As per the manual. 5w30 is acceptable if 0w20 is not available but 0w20 must be used next change.. The engines are sensitive to viscosity with the vvt systems
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The code only relates to that solenoid, and it does not check for function just electric connection.
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pass front side of intake under the runner at least on the 2000-2001 air assisted EJ251. The system only looks for the solenoid and will throw the check code if it is not there or not working anymore electrically. the connector is purple.
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I know the old Squarebody Fords so I'm not worried. I also work for the dealer selling it as a mechanic part time. We were a Ford Franchise until owner sold that back a few months ago, and I'm not paying a lot for it and it's really nice. Plus I get to fix it myself, but we have a lot of work to do ahead of it.. We also have a private junkyard with enough parts to build a couple nice F-150's or 250's if we really wanted too.
The car does not 'feel' like a misfire or sound like it, just feels unbalanced after a few min idle. It's not lacking any power once it's warmed up. The hesitation is like the car is shut down for a split second, kind of like what the shift interrupter does on a Mercruiser Alpha One when shifted from fwd- reverse.. I'll check over the ignition and compression again for sure. Plugs were new when I did the last comp test. ~12k miles ago. Possibly a bit longer. I know that I went one step hotter than spec
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My 2001 Forester engine has been running on it's last legs basically for the last 10k miles and not good before that. blowing smoke when cold and bad piston slap when cold, knowing that if something went wrong with it I would pull it and replace it with another engine, and I have had a JDM V6 EJ205 with trans waiting for about 6 months I guess.
Now this engine is backfiring pretty regularly, moreso than before, and the other day it started fighting itself at idle, to the point I thought it was going to lock up, idle at about 400 RPM shaking badly but it does not do it consistently, but it will if it idles down all the way which seems to take longer than a normal traffic light. It also has a cold hesitation now.. Could this be a weak cylinder? I used to get 25 MPG stable, and now am down to 22 MPG... Compression test 6 months ago, all cylinders were equally good but I forget the actual numbers.... I have to hope this can last another month cause work picked up, and I can't take off right now. I'm getting a second vehicle, but the dealer won't have it ready for another month or so. It's a 1995 F-150 FWIW.
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Many japan brands now have temp lights. They are here to stay,. At least they didn't do what Ford did with oil pressure gauges, which due to low oil pressure claims in the old trucks, they put a resistor in the gauge along with just an idiot light sender which would peg the oil gauge at normal with pressure of 6 psi or greater.
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If you have wire brushed the bolts, then get new ones. It can change the torque values and that COULD be a mistake. Use the full process from the manual regardless. They are not TTY bolts and that's why you can reuse them if still in good condition.. Factory manual should also tell you where the bolts go if they are different and you lost track
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Considering the 2014 head gasket is well outside of the norm. The cars are getting old enough we would expect to see some failures as happened with the earlier EJ25's but the failures that are happening are oil control issues.. The '95 Legacy trans would also be out of the norm, and outside of the first one, was probably a technician mistake that ate the other 2.... Too many Subaru's make 200k+ miles on average to consider them garbage.
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Sometimes you have to jack up.the engine to get the bolts out.. The ej22 is the easiest engine to do gaskets on but you still have to stand on your head to get them done that way. I prefer to pull engine either way. It's not a lot of work even for an auto, but you can do everything effortless with the engine on a stand while doing a full service
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You don't have to pull engine. But it's faster in my experience, at least for a manual.
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Vac leaks or a poor running engine could also cause it.
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I used to know where a few brand new ea82 engines were. Guy wanted $1,500 each but couldn't sell due to no buyers. No clue whatever happened to them. Ik he closed up shop a cpl years ago
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Make sure to use a little copper antiseize on new sensor. And am autoparts has a $20 sensor that works
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you don't need to power it from the relay. you could but that isn't really the best way. The A/C clutch has a single wire connector. Just connect there to the battery with a 12-14 ga wire with an alligator clip on the end. that will lock the clutch until you get some pressure in the system. you could also locate and jump the A/C pressure switch if you wanted
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2.2 closed deck turbo block, but your never going to meet your goals using the factory ej22t heads..
What I would do is get an EJ20G. They will run on the electronics your car has, you can change injectors around, add some fuel pressure under boost and tune it to run ok without much issue. You won't have 350hp but it would be 100 hp more than stock. If you can't obtain a wrecked '04- 07 STI, it's best to forget your 350hp goal, because that is the cheapest way out. Beyond that, a JDM EJ207 swap and you could probably get the engine and 6spd for around $10k, get them to throw some wiring and ECU in for you possibly
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which engine did you use? Did you use an AVCS engine?.. With the correct sensors and everything matching any AVCS EJ205 or EJ207 should work, since the USDM WRX got AVCS in 2008
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Yea it'll work but a 9v battery hooked to an accessory plug works too.
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A donor WRX STI and go from there. 350hp goal, you won't get by with anything less. You could do an EJ20G or EJ20K swap, but neither will get to those levels without lots of work. and the 20k is known for eating rod bearings on USDM gasoline
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JDM lights are about as good as it gets for wagon
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Yep, they were optional. So you can just add one
Coil adapter wiring help
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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well, I just matched the colors and it ran. I didn't check the manual since the colors were identical. I put a 1996 EJ22E in a 1999 Legacy SUS ( EJ25D ) and used the 1999 wiring harness since the 1996 harness was damaged. It required swapping that connector