scoot_loops

ill get pics when i get a chance. My phone was dead when i was working on it this morning. The leak is proving troublesome to identify, the only wetness is in a few places under the Master cylinder, and in areas it looks like the fluid would flow down to from there. Nothing that really screams "There is a hole here!" anywhere else *shrug* Thanks, ill get pics up soon, most likely thursday morning, got work and school tomorrow

Hey guys, i need some advice on how to handle this particular situation, as some of you know, i've been around the forums here asking for advice on various things with my 82 wagon, affectionately named Ruth. So, I'm at the point where i need to decide if it is worth taking Ruth to the mechanic to have the brakes worked on, or if working on the brakes is something that My friend and I can handle. My buddy is pretty mechanically inclined, and has done brake work on similar manual brake systems including a 1970 Camaro, and a few VW bugs. I personally have never done any sort of brake work. So here is whats wrong as far as i have deduced. Brake Pads - They are shot on front passenger side. One of them broke off completely when i was checking them out this morning. I looked and it has been pushed out of place from the last time i drove. So there is the brake pad problem. Brake Rotor - The passenger side brake rotor has a pretty deep bore into the outer most part of the rotor. 99% sure from the busted/worn out pad. So the rotor on that side needs to be replaced, i don't think it can be refinished. Calipers - They look fine on both sides, but because of the busted pad i can't really tell. I feel that i should get the calipers replaced on both sides, or at the very least the passenger side. Brake Pistons - I have not checked, but I think they are fine. Master Brake Cylinder - Almost entirely positive that there is a busted seal in there. The brakes don't leak when parked, but when the car was driving I had to really keep my eye on the fluid tank. The brake has always been a little spongy, but has always been able to brake, fairly hard on a couple of occasions. Still, There is definitely been air in the system, and i don't know if it was me, or the master cylinder was already busted before I bought Ruth. Side Note - there is wetness underneath the Master Cylinder, and i think it has dripped over to the brakes on the drivers side. I don't believe the rubber hoses are having an issue or are in need of replacement. I think the fluid is all from somewhere near or in the Master brake Cylinder. Are these all things that my friend and I, and possibly one of you awesome Forum memebers, could work out? Or should i really take this to a mechanic and have them fix it. Some quick pricing puts me at 200-300 bucks to fix it at home, 500 upwards at a mechanic. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm located in Mountlake Terrace in Washington if anyone is nearby and wants to join the fun if we make this a home project. -Scott

Nah as far as I know it's a totally stock gl wagon.

okay i think i got it, the hubs are literally the front wheel hubs, sory for whatever reason that concept was escaping me. Thanks guys, i will check into all this when i get home. I have at least one spare wheel hub, so if that one isn't stripped, i can use it and another one fom a pick-a-part. Just out of curiosity, if one of the hubs is stripped (IE the passenger side), would the other hub be able to get any power at all even i it is not stripped? Im asking because i have had experience with other cars where if one wheel is stuck, the other one will spin freely because of some weird way the are connected. I can't remember what that particular oncept if called. Anyways, i will update you guys when i have a chance to look at the wheel hubs. again thanks fo all you help guys! i just need to keep this girl running fo a couple years. one step at a time...

Gloyale and Indrid Cold: thanks guys, reading all the makes sense, and i apologize Gloyale, i think i misunderstood. As much as all that makes sense, i have to admit i have no idea where to start checking all of this. The hubs, where are they located? are they inside anything? im guessing it would be really easy to tell if the splines are stripped, but just in case, what might i be looking for? basically how do i start checking this all out and where are said parts located? are there any resources on doing this on ones own that you know of? i am searching around as we speak as well. BTW: i have a 1982 GL Wagon. But i get the feeling you all knew that already

okay guys i got the axle bit fixed. Got some new cotter pins to keep the axle nut from winding off, pretty sure my wheels and breaks are even more out of alignment before though. but until i can get that fixed ill just keep my driving to a minimum. That shouldn't be hard since i just transfered to a new store right near my house so i can walk to work okay so, now that i am at a computer, i can more explain what i think is going on with the drivelines/transfer case So, in regards to the horrible knock/grinding noise that AKGandhi mentioned, its been a slight knock whenever i make a left turn. Im positive i need a new wheel bearing in the front passenger side wheel. Otherwise this is what i've observed about the transfercase/driveline concern/issue: So about, 3 weeks after i bought my subie, i noticed that when i break, the 4wheel light on my dashboard will flash on and stay on while i am breaking. This is when i noticed it, it may have been doing that for a while. I didn't really think anything of it. About a month ago, i noticed that when i break and that light comes on, the handle for the 4wheel drive shifter reacts whenever i break. It pulls down as if a chord or wire is being affected by the breaks. It seems very odd to me, my old jeep had a 4wheel switch similar to the Subie's, and i never noticed anything like that happening. But since i w3as busy, and the car was working fine except for that wheel knock every so often on hard lefts, i kept my eye on it, but could never really do anything about it. Fast forward to monday july 1st, I am leaving my work, the car is running just as it has for the last 3 months, but this time when i pop into reverse from the parking space, i heard a small knock that seemed out of the ordinary. I couldn't tell you where i think it came from, but it was there. I shifted back into first, and drove to the parking lot exit. When i stopped there, i thought i heard another knock from somewhere, but i couldn't be sure, when i dropped the cloutch i heard some kind of grinding before it caught in first gear, but it did catch, when i went to shift to second however, i heard alot of griding and it didn't catch. I shifted back to first and i had very little contact with the clutch, but was able to get enough momentum to get into the parking lot again. Once i got in there, on a hunch, i tried turning on the 4 wheel drive. After that, i had full clutch contact and no issues slipping or driving. I managed to drive all the way home, and until thursday the fourth when the axel gave me trouble, i had absolutely no issues. Even the knocking and grinding from the passenger side front wheel was gone, no hard left turns, and the 4 wheel drive shifter knob doesn't appear to be pulled around when i break. So my conclusion from all this is that a cable or connecting bolt or something is loose in the transfer case. or something is out of alignment. Or the gears for the FWD and axel are shot. So what i would like to know now, is if you guys think it is related only to the transfer case and the 4wheel drive shifter, or if there is something bigger that might be going on with my whole front axel? On a side note, after fixing the front wheels, i tried putting the car back in FWD(2wheel drive mode) and i only get contact from the clutch in reverse, and at that the reverse seems loose and minimal. still no first, second, third, or fourth gear. But it still works like a charm in 4wheel drive mode for whatever reason. If i had to guess, it feels like all the power is coming from the rear end when the 4 wheel is on, which again leads me to believe it is something to do in the transfer case. 4wheel Hi and Lo both work fine. How can i check up on all this? how might i access the transfer case and take a look at it, and if i absolutely need to, how would i disconnect the front wheel drive axle from the driveline, and is that even something that should be done? Can the rear driveshaft handle being used on a consistent basis or do i need to really focus on fixing this issue so that my soob can go back to FWD unless the 4x4 is on. i know thats alot, and as always i greatly appreciate all the help and info up here on the forums! PS: Gloyale, i'm not an illogical person, my last 4x4 able car was a wrangler, and it had RWD under normal circumstances, so only having that to go off of, i had assumed the soobie was put together in a similar way. There is no need to be rude about it. Thanks for the information anyways.

Okay found the parts nearby where I had parked the subie. Cotter pin is still missing, the cone washer, axel washer, and axel nut are there. So just need a new cotter pin. I will have another concern regarding the transfer case here soon, but I still haven't gotten to my computer yet to fully describe that issue. Thanks again guys, best wishes and I hope I can get subaruth back up and in good shape here soon.

That's what I figured. Well I will jut have to find a way to tow it home. I don't know where the axel but went, it wasn't anywhere on my walk home along the rout I drove it. Is this an easy fix when I get the parts? Also, my subie is rear wheel drive I believe unless you drop it into 4x4. Either way, I gotta find this parts.... Thanks for the help guys

Okay so my Subaru passenger side wheel is the top picture. My driver side wheel is the bottom picture. How do I fix? What is that part that is missing? Is this a bigger problem? Could this be at all related to a recent problem where I am only getting front wheel drive power? (I can relay that story when I get to a computer, I'm on my phone right now.). Is this something I can Mac guyver just to drive it the mile I need to get it home? Thanks guys, hope the picture upload alright

Extra post to make sure I'm following the topic. Ignore this.

Edit: 99% sure it's the fans. Worked fine until I hit a little stop n go traffic. Question now is, anyone know where I can find the wiring diagram for this particular car? I can trace the cable up until the firewall. Gets lost after there, not sure if it splits from there, or where it is or where it's particular fuse if it has one Much appreciated fellas. My buddy should be coming out tomorrow to help me figure it out, but any extra info is greatly appreciated

Okay so, got a new cap, topped off the radiator. Still overheated, but it only happens when I'm idling, I haven't had a chance to check the fans, which the more I think about it, the more it leads me to believe that's the issue. It seems to drive fun so far unless I'm in traffic, or idle for too long.

thanks guys, that really puts me at ease. ill look into getting an overflow tank but for now this is great news, thought i really had a problem here :-)

ADDED: it looks like the hose relieves pressure from the radiator cap, but im not sure.

okay so, the internet has failed me so far regarding any information of this stupid little hose that has me worried. its located right at the radiator cap, its small, about a quarter inch, looks to be rubber/nylon. isn't connected to anything. What the hell is it for? why isn't it connected? should it be connected and to what? is it supposed to have a clamp? im asking this because when i stopped at the ATM today, i left the 82 GL wagon idling, which normally isn't an issue. Wheni sat back down in the car, radiator steam started flowing out everywhere. i shut the car off, and saw that the little hose i mentioned earlier had popped off. after waiting for the engine to cool down, i put the hose back on. It went back on without any effort, which leads me to believe that it can come back off without effort. I drove the subie back home, (about 2 miles), watching the temperature gauge because i had lost about a quarter of my coolant. Temp was a tick or two higher than normal, but stayed within a good range. Should i be worried about this little hose? please let me know ASAP guys, i have to get to work at 630 AM tomorrow, and its a 15 mile drive from MLT, WA to Redmond, WA. I know a few of you guys are from the area, i would really appreciate any help or advice if possible. thanks! PS: i know i generally just come on here for help and complain about problems, but im still learning about this old gal. Its the oldest car i have owned, and she is tough for sure, but subies are all new to me too. My last car was a 95 wrangler i had for 8 years (RIP), i knew that car really well, hope to learn about this one just as well.

Okay guys i got it figured out :-) I had to really work at the old clutch cable, but i ound that the cable itself wasn't the problem, it was the grommet right next to the clutch pedal that went out. So it wasn't staying in place and as a result the whole cable (including the sleeve) would move, but not give any resistance against the spring. So it all had to be replaced. I made sure to route it back the way it came in. Eveything is working fin, just needs some adjustment to get the free play a little better. On another note, the tumblers in my ignition totally broke on me today, so i had to take apart part of the ignition cylinder (the place where the keys go) and now i get to start the thing with a good old trusty flathead screwdriver. As of right now, i havent found anywhere that has a replacement cylinder. But like i said, it happened this morning, so i havent had much time to look Do you guys have any ideas were i might be able to find somethin like that? how much it might cost, and, in all honesty, is it even worth dealing with or should i look into just forgetting about it and installing a pushbutton start or something. Ill keep my eyes out for the part, im not in any rush at the moment. as always, thanks for all the suggestions and help guys I'm really glad my friend pointed me in the direction of this forum when i bought the GL.

hey guys, i have an 82 GL wagon with what i think is a clutch cable issue. So, without warning, i was diving home when i lost all sense of resistance fom the clutch cable. I checked out the lines and found out that it must be the cable running from the pedal to the shiter-thing on the transmission. when i move the clutch pedal the cable housing moves, but the shifter thing does not. I checked the other cable with a spring, and that has good tension and rebounds back into place. The shifter thing does not move by hand pressure. So im 99% sure it is the cable that runs directly fom the clutch pedal. My question now is, how hard is this to replace, what do i need (besides the cable), and how in the hell do i go abou doing this. what tools might i need? Im currently located in Redmond, WA, so if anyone near here has an idea of how its done, i would GREATLY appreciate it if i didn't have to tow the car all the way back up to Mountlake Terrace where i live. Anways, most important thing is how do i replace the cable, and wha do i need to do so. Thanks guys, i really appreciate any ino on this. I cannot survive (or even get to work for that matter) unless this car is working. -Scott

sweet, thanks! ill give it a try when i get some heli-coils.

Hey guys, im new to this forum, as well as fairly new to the subie cars. Im a college student, and a bought a 1982 GL wagon off of CL since my last car died. It was 625 bucks, 191k miles, some rust, and some minor maitenance needs to be done. I fixed some small issues but this one issue is really buggin me and i don't think i have the right tools, or i might be missing a step, or the problem may be worse than i thought. But it has to do with the drivers side exhaust header bolts. I've already checked another post out here that helped out in the beginning, gave me the bolt sizes, type of studs, and a way to tap them. Anyways, ill start from the beginning. The wagon sounds like a cross between a motocycle and a lawn mower. So, i was looking around underneath the engine and checking the exhaust line to see where the problem might lie. I found that one of the stud bolts on the drivers side exhause was missing, and the other stud bolt on that side was barely hangin on. Whomever worked on it before me has also added another bolt to a stud hole as kind of a "clamp" if you will for the exhaust pipe. After checking around here, i found out what i "should" be able to do to reseal the gasket and the stud bolts. There wasn't much room between the bolts and the exhaust pipe to getting my tools in there and trying to retap the thread was rather difficult, but the first time around, i managed to get a stud bolt in on on of the missing spots, and it held fairly well for about two weeks. The bolt that i had installed fell out again and now the car is back to its loud, exhaust-smelling state. So that's where i am now. I tried getting the bolt back in, but every time i tighten it up, it looses its grip and pops out. Which leads me to believe that it is stripped pretty bad. The other exhaust bolt i can't even to into to tap without removing the 'Y' pipes. and if i just stick the tap bit into that one it feels like its been shredded so bad that the tap doesn't even have anything to dig into. I fear that this is the case with BOTH stud holes now. So any suggestions on the tap? should i get slightly larger bolt and totally retap with a bigger pitch? Also, i haven't seen a thread yet, but if i need to remove the Y-pipes to get some more room, how would i go about doing so? i can see all the bolts, but i want to make sure im not missing something, and i also need to know if i have to remove the entire pipeline system, which may be a little out of my skill level. Thanks guys!