NOMAD327

More likely a floor mat jammed under the pedal than anything involving the cable or linkage.

If the roads are slippery enough to consider having chains on, there's enough slip between the road and the back tires to not worry about damaging the center differential.

My 99 ran perfectly, but the drain was black like liquid coal at about 100,000 miles. It took three of the four quart drain and refills before the drain oil started to look remotely red after a days driving. I used everyday generic dexron the first couple refills, and then name brand dino oil the last couple. The drain plug is the same wrench size as the engine drain plug and I was able to do the drain without lifting the car off the ground. Takes about 15 min after the first time. I would get a new drain plug gasket for the last time at least. (same part as engine drain plug gasket) The fill tube is sort of hidden under the power brake booster, and I had to put a small funnel down in it, and then a larger plastic funnel above that drained into the first funnel. Measure the drain oil and replace a like amount, always about 4 quarts on level ground.

Just did my 99 front sensor yesterday, I had a special socket which isn't even close to being able to fit. I had a 22 mm box end combination wrench which I had sawed off in the middle in the past for another car. I guided the box end over the wire with the angle of the wrench head leaning toward the rear of the car. I already had the mass air sensor and air cleaner cover off to access the wire connector and the wire support so there was a lot of room to look down from above. The end of the wrench protruded up between the transmission and the fenderwell, and I lightly put a pair of vise grips on the sensor body so the wrench could not slip off the hex. I gave the wrench one light tap with a hammer and it broke loose with almost no effort. I did the rest of the threading out and the new one in from underneath, and the only other tricks were avoiding having the wire twist up while threading the new one in, and making sure the old washer came out with the old sensor (like a spark plug washer). The original sensor was a Bosch, and the replacement from Subaru was a Hitachi.

Knock sensors get blamed quite a bit for this problem on Subarus and don't seem to ever cause problems on other brands. I have a 99 with hesitation just on initial rolloff, but nearly all the time. I am going to replace front O2 sensor and plug wires just because it's time, and has helped some other people. My knock sensor failed about 6 months ago and set CEL, I replaced it with new Subaru part, and on mine at least, it didn't help hesitation. On my car it is a MAF sensor right after air cleaner and I did clean it, no help. If your K&N filter is too oily, or over time, it will put oil film on the sensor, but that is probably not your problem.

make sure heater is not in recirc mode

Another Volvo my wife's interested in if you have the time. YV1NC53D9YJ009983 edcamp@intergrafix.net thanks much.

I haven't had any Subaru's with hydraulic lifters, but lots of Chryslers with Mitsubishi 3.0 engine that had very small hydraulic lifters located in OHC rocker arms. Those engines all developed a tick after a few years and eventually the tick did not go away even when hot. I used to use CD2 additive, one half quart can for immediate relief. Marvel Mystery oil half quart will work just as well for about half the price. One treatment lasts until you change the oil. Then you have to put it in again, or the tick will come back. Using oils with less parafin seemed to help initially, used to be Havoline, or Mobil. I liked Mobil, but it suddenly changed color when Exxon and Mobil merged, I haven't had any Chryslers in years, and don't use Mobil anymore, but suspect you are not getting the old formula.

I didn't see anyone else suggest it, but the windows will fog up constantly if the vent system is operated in recirc mode?

You may get hit up for an extension housing replacement too if it has worn out, The design was changed for 98 or 99 with a steel bearing surface in one of the locations. on the earlier ones, the bearing surface was the aluminum housing itself.

NGK PFR5B-11 is the original spec NGK double platinum which was standard in the 99 2.5 DOHC engines at least. You can use plugs which are no platinum, or plugs which are double platinum. I would avoid the single platinum plugs because our ignition system will cause two plugs to wear faster than the other two. The plugs are moderately hard to change, and I did not want to do it any sooner than necessary, so I put in the double platinum. Whatever you use, they will normally not be in stock anywhere you go, (except Subaru dealer), So when they order them for you, they will check what plugs are correct for your engine.

I will repost a response I made at some time in the past to this question. I used PFR5B-11 NGK which I found at advanced auto for $10, best price I found, and yes those are the original equipment plugs for the car. List on those plugs most places is $15 each and a lot of the internet sources wanted $12 or more with shipping extra. My kid who is on a budget bought Autolite APP3924 for about $4 apiece. They are double platinum and made in America. Very high quality appearance and seemed to match the NGK's for dimensions very well. The car has been running like it should on them for more than 20,000 miles, so they may be OK to use. The plugs on this engine are real difficult to change, so I bought the NGK not wanting to have to redo the job if there were any problems Once you remove the windshield washer bottle and battery (can probably just slide it forward on it’s tray a bit) on the left and the air inlet tube and mass air sensor and air cleaner box on the passenger side, access is fair doing a 2.5 in an outback. I would do the front plug first on each side, as they are slightly easier to do. What makes it the most hard is that the plugs are really far down inside the wells in the heads. The rear plugs on each side are harder because the frame rails are closer in the back. My problem was that an extension was needed, but there isn’t room to get one in with the socket attached. You have to slide the socket into the hole first, then slide in and assemble the extension, and finally attach the ratchet to the end of the extension. I immediately removed the sponge rubber plug protector from my socket, the reason being it will be extremely difficult to get the socket off the end of the plug and out of the hole if the rubber is gripping the spark plug. I didn’t want it on for plug removal either, because there is a lot of trial and error with your socket set as to what gives just the right length for getting the socket stack down into the hole. As I recall, what worked best for me was to use a plug socket in the rear, and then use a ratchet with a standard socket on it to turn the hex on top of the plug socket instead of using an extension. On the front plugs, a 3" extension worked pretty well with the regular spark plug socket and a ratchet. There was at least one plug which worked slightly better with a standard deepwell socket instead of the spark plug socket, but that was not a critical must have item! I would recommend having a small hand mirror on a stick or a ladies compact to be able to glance down into the well to see what’s happening. I’ve done a few of these cars, and on each one, at one time or another, the spark plug socket became slightly jammed on some aluminum protrusions of the head that were down deep in the well. The impression is that the threads are pulling rather than the socket is cocked and dragging. If you experience this, Use the mirror to reconnoiter. If in doubt, reverse direction, and the condition should go away if it’s not the threads. This usually happens when it’s just starting to go real good to scare the heck out of you. Going back in with new spark plugs, make sure you check the gap first, then lube the threads with an anti-seize compound. Make sure there is a washer on the plug or you will wonder later on if it was in fact there. The big trick for installation, is to have a piece of rubber hose that’s about three or four inches long and a snug fit on the top of the spark plug. Stick it down over the top of the plug and use it to guide the plug into place. Twirl the hose between your fingers and you can probably get the new plug in half to three quarters of the way which ensures the threads are started straight. It's also much quicker and easier than a socket wrench as far as it will go. Putting all the stuff back on after the plugs are in, make sure the three quarter inch hose that connects to the bottom of the intake tract after the air flow sensor is reconnected, The car will not run without the hose connected, and sometimes it slips off unseen during disassembly, and you don’t even realize it needs reconnected.

There is a new consideration with this question. Thanks to Ford Explorers, a lot of brand new cars have tire pressure monitoring, (I don't know about Subaru's, check your owner's manual) they mostly work by using the ABS sensors to check that one tire isn't spinning a bit faster than the other three. I don't see how that makes any real change over what could mess up the braking part of the ABS system, but it's something that we're not used to considering. On the surface, at least, a set of four identical sized tires shouldn't make any difference in any way.

See if they go up and down better with the doors open. The glass against rubber seal surface needs to be lubricated from time to time or there gets to be a lot of drag between them.

if your car insurance is repairing the body work, it will also repair the engine if it is damaged. It sounds like your engine will be internally damaged by what has happened. The only problem is this may make the difference between repair vs. total loss from the insurance companies perspective.

Pennsylvania was the first state to have inspections. Twice a year starting in 1936. They went to annual inspections around the late 70's give or take, they've gotten easier over the years, partly because cars and tires especially hold up a lot better, but now with emissions mixed in, there's a whole new annoyance to deal with.

The viscous couplings that function as the center differential on manual transaxles are a lot more durable, but can also fail if abused badly enough, and it is not an inexpensive repair. If you search on viscous coupling, you should get some more specific info.

Once you remove the windshield washer bottle and battery (can probably just slide it forward on it’s tray a bit) on the left and the air inlet tube and mass air sensor and air cleaner box on the passenger side, access is fair doing a 2.5 in an outback. I would do the front plug first on each side, as they are slightly easier to do. What makes it the most hard is that the plugs are really far down inside the wells in the heads. The rear plugs on each side are harder because the frame rails are closer in the back. My problem was that an extension was needed, but there isn’t room to get one in with the socket attached. You have to slide the socket into the hole first, then slide in and assemble the extension, and finally attach the ratchet to the end of the extension. I immediately removed the sponge rubber plug protector from my socket, the reason being it will be extremely difficult to get the socket off the end of the plug and out of the hole if the rubber is gripping the spark plug. I didn’t want it on for plug removal either, because there is a lot of trial and error with your socket set as to what gives just the right length for getting the socket stack down into the hole. As I recall, what worked best for me was to use a plug socket in the rear, and then use a ratchet with a standard socket on it to turn the hex on top of the plug socket instead of using an extension. On the front plugs, a 3” extension worked pretty well with the regular spark plug socket and a ratchet. There was at least one plug which worked slightly better with a standard deepwell socket instead of the spark plug socket, but that was not a critical must have item! I would recommend having a small hand mirror on a stick or a ladies compact to be able to glance down into the well to see what’s happening. I’ve done a few of these cars, and on each one, at one time or another, the spark plug socket became slightly jammed on some aluminum protrusions of the head that were down deep in the well. The impression is that the threads are pulling rather than the socket is cocked and dragging. If you experience this, Use the mirror to reconnoiter. If in doubt, reverse direction, and the condition should go away if it’s not the threads. This usually happens when it’s just starting to go real good to scare the heck out of you. Going back in with new spark plugs, make sure you check the gap first, then lube the threads with an anti-seize compound. Make sure there is a washer on the plug or you will wonder later on if it was in fact there. The big trick to installation, is to have a piece of rubber hose that’s about three or four inches long and a snug fit on the top of the spark plug. Stick it down over the top of the plug and use it to guide the plug into place. Twirl the hose between your fingers and you can probably get the new plug in half to three quarters of the way which is time not spent with a socket wrench. This will also nearly eliminate the chance of starting the plug with the threads crossed. Putting all the stuff back on, make sure the three quarter inch hose that connects to the bottom of the intake tract after the air flow sensor is reconnected, The car will not run without the hose connected, and sometimes it slips off unseen during disassembly, and you don’t even realize it needs reconnected.

On my 99 Legacy Outback, it's a thin black nylon strap that is just off center, I'm almost certain it's slightly to the driver side of center. You slide your hand down between the cushion and the backrest, and should be able to feel it. A pull on the strap will then release the cushion latch.

Changing the front axle ratio requires changing the rear axle ratio

There are two speed sensors built into the transmission housing that tell the transmission computer what the front and rear axle speeds are. The computer favors the 90 front 10 rear arrangement normally. Should the front axle speed be higher, the clutch will be engaged more and more to shift power to the rear axle. 50/50 is the maximum split, which is essentially as though there was no center differential. As there is no limited slip rear end on most of these cars, you can still have one front and one rear wheel spin and not be able to move. In practice, I believe the 90/10 split gives a very good driving feel, and 50/50 will take you through anything you will likely ever encounter in highway driving.

Use only a Genuine Subaru Thermostat. These engines are odd in a few ways and the low mounted thermostat is one of them. There are numerous threads here on the job and most importantly the refill procedure. The engine will not forgive you if it's run dry, so you want to ensure the engine block itself contains coolant. One easy first step is after you're back together, take the top hose off the radiator and pour new coolant down the hose into the engine. That will fill both sides and really reduce the likelihood of a dry start. after the engine is full to the top of the hose more or less, connect it and then fill the radiator. It will still need a top off, but this technique works pretty well.

In america at least, the imprezzas and foresters got the SOHC heads in 99 and the legacy models got the SOHC heads in 2000. The engine blocks also got an upgrade, and that appears to be in 99 for all models regardless of head design

e-85 melts certain plastics and must not be put in vehicles not designed for it. I believe the computer will not do well with it either, and of course notably poorer economy, as the fuel has higher octane, but lower energy per gallon

I always use bridgestone/firestone mid level performance tires on all my vehicles. I have a great local dealer and they seem to work good in all conditions and have a wear out guarantee as well. I got almost 60,000 on the factory michelin tires on 99 OBW and he said his Subaru customers were not seeing that kind of wear on his tires, but not to worry, when they wore out prematurely, I could just come in for another pro-rated set. I decided to go with Michelins again, just on the Subaru, and got a set of the Hydroedge tires and they are wonderful for everything, and while expensive at $120 a tire, they make up for it by lasting twice as long in theory at least. They were 80,000 miles when I bought them, now rated at 90,000 miles. I actually paid $95 a tire, by waiting for a sale at sears.