
PA Grown
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Hey guys I'm trying to get a parts list for making my 94 legacy off-road worthy. So I'm pretty sure I can swap in a limited slip carrier correct? I Have 0 experience with awd. What am I gonna need for parts and how's it gonna be done? I just don't want to get into a d/r swap. But hell what's your guys opinion?
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So I've got a 94 awd leg wagon and was thinking about doing a good sized lift Im moving back to port Angeles Washington in the next few weeks and want to romp this thing. So I've heard all the problems wagon Ryan had with lifting his and was wondering how high of a lift I can put on without having too many issues to modify. Steering extension is easy. So is extending the shifter. So what size lift can I put on without having issues.
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So my 94 awd manual wouldn't start this morning because of the safety feature where the car won't start without the clutch pushed in. I turned the key twice with the clutch pushed in and all it did was click like it does when dead. I pumped the clutch a few times and it started right up... Any ideas? The clutch doesn't ever slip. Sometimes hard to get into gear but no grinding ever. Could someone also tell me how to remove that stupid safety feature so I don't get stranded from the car not starting lol.
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So engines needs 3 things to function. Fuel spark and compression, since you cleaned the intake system and cleaned the fuel system, I'd check the spark first, pull a plug and crank the car with the plug out to see if it's getting good spark, if so you're clear on one of the 3 necessity of an engine. Next I'd check your fuel, you said you cleaned the intake, so maybe hook your fuel line up to a psi gauge after the fuel filter and make sure you're getting an adequate gas supply, next comes the dreaded compression if all those other category's check out good. Time to do a compression test next on your engine and see where the head gasket is at for remaining life. After that I'm no good on newer subies. But it gives the garage monkey mechanics a place to start to try and see where the problem could lie.
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Lol you don't think technology has advanced since 95? Theres better brakes for less these days. I wouldn't keep a piece of metal that's almost 20 years old with 250xxx or whatever miles on it. Metal parts get replaced constantly because time weakens them. But you're right they are still well built parts, just old and weaker.
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I'd have to take off the forks of my motorcycles and the tires of bothand tail of my full size and it'll fit great. Thanks for the good new guys. I'm 19 uhaul wont rent to me. And the extra weight from the bikes will be worth it if the worst should occur. I'm planning on shipping everything else I own back to Washington. And I'm currently in Colorado.
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And while you're checking the brakes look at the abs sensor that's hooked onto the rotor (I believe) and is mounted on the strut like the brake line is. Clean it. Otherwise maybe a warped rotor tripping that abs sensor. That sensor also monitors wheel rotation which tells your computer when to activate the ABS.
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I just picked up a new subaru the other day with low rpms when and sounded like spoob once she warmed up, go through and check the airbox and air intake and the plugs is a good place to start, I found an inch of clay and dirt in my airbox and a clogged air filter. You live in the desert just like me, that dirt in the airbox with turn to clay and clog up everything seeing as your intake starts in the right wheel well. Poor placement picks up dirt like MAD! Especially in the desert!
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