Junkie

In some states you aren't allowed to just take a car off the road and stop paying DMV without filing the right paperwork. If you don't file it, they assume you want to keep registering it so they charge you late fees and penalties. These follow the car, so it's possible to buy a car with more in late fees than it's worth. I know that's how it works here in CA but don't know about other states.

Wow, sounds like you're going all in on this thing. Didn't expect that on a cheap old car, not that it won't be plenty capable.

In addition, as the thread starter said the valves quieted down when he stopped the leak. That indicates to me that the oil pressure was lower with the leak than without, which can certainly accelerate wear.

One of my roommates teaches welding at the local Community College. I asked him if he would have any leftovers from a project he was working on that used a sheet of 16 gauge, he said no but he could grab some from school. I measured the bumper, and think I told him it was 44" x 4.5". I didn't specify thickness at all. I also asked if he could grab me a couple pieces of thicker material for where the kickers come down: if I just weld them straight to the bumper I'm afraid they'd just push through so I was going to add some plates to spread the load out. I asked for something on the order of 1/8" for them, and 3" squares. I got home today to find a couple 3" squares and a 5-6" x 49" piece. The squares looked perfect for an application like this, and appear to be 12 gauge (.1084"). However... the bigger piece is the same thickness. Sure, it'll work, and at 8lb it's at most 4lb heavier than what I would have used, but I'm not sure that I can dimple die it with the die that I can borrow. On the other hand, it seems like a pretty much perfect thickness for when I re-do the front bumper and have to make some new plates that bolt on where the OEM bumper does. spoob, I can't really complain about free material (I might pay him for it, but he's refused payment for similar things in the past) but I wish it was 14 or 16 gauge instead. If I do end up using the thick stuff for the top I guess I won't need a support in the middle, I guess that's an upside.

Wow, posts like those make me happy that I have a California car. My engine wasn't too hard to get out and I got it back in solo no problem.

I was also going to say oil pressure sensor, I have an EJ25D but it looks similar.

Has the timing belt ever been changed? I believe that's an interference engine, and it could be that one of the cams slipped.

I'm probably going to plate the top of it. Should I dimple die the plate or leave it solid? Or, should I use expanded steel rather than sheet? Also, should I use 2 or 3 kickers supporting it from below? It's already strong enough for me (190lb) to bounce up and down on, but I'd rather it not break. The ends are getting shortened a little, but I'd rather start too long and remove a little than have to weld extensions on.

Ok, that's what I hoped to hear. Sounds like the 04 Forester struts/springs that I should be picking up next weekend are the best easy option for lift on my 99 Outback.

Hmm, I hadn't heard that the earlier ones were taller before. It seems that on other forums I mostly see suggestions for 03-08 Forester stuff for lifting my 99 Legacy Outback. Is that true for both 98-02 and 03-08 Foresters? I'm hoping I don't go too soft when I swap suspension.

In order to be sure you don't run out of length I'd extend the cherry picker all the way. Your engine is pretty light, I know I can pick up an EJ25D solo and I imagine the single cam heads are a little lighter, so the 500lb spot will be more than adequate. Knocking out the roll pin is very easy, I recommend it.

Doesn't the 97 EJ22 lack EGR or something like that?

Yep, or even WRX struts depending on how low you want to go. You can likely sell your original struts to someone who wants to lift their Legacy, too. One thing to be aware of is that the Outback has about an inch of body lift (as in engine/tranny/diff are an inch lower, compared to the body, than they'd be in a Legacy). Therefore, your ground clearance will be a bit less. As for why, especially with the WRX struts it'll handle better on pavement. I seem to recall the Outback having bigger swaybars too, so it should handle better than a Legacy. Or, he just likes the look better. It's his car, he can do what he wants to it and I'll only call him on it if there's a safety issue.

I don't know much about the engine you have but I imagine at a minimum you're doing everything involved in a timing belt change.

Thanks. What's a reasonable price to pay for them? He says they're in good shape, no leaks. I'd be picking them up so no shipping.

I have my eye on a set of Forester XT struts, 04. One of the top hats is cut up as he had difficulty with a stud. My current top hats are all in good shape. Would I be able to re-use one of mine, or would I need to buy a new one? My car's a 99 Legacy Outback.

Everything I've heard is that the 4EAT is pretty bulletproof unless you're making big power. I very rarely hear of any issues with them. If you want it to last longer you could add another cooler.

The tires he has are 31x9.5/15 Super Swampers, but he says they measure closer to 32. I forgot to mention, it's a manual but he said he swapped in a JDM tranny with 4.44. Too bad it doesn't have low range, that would've been a worthy swap.

I'd seen this car a couple times before but never had a chance to talk to the guy or look close. I saw him and chased him down today. It started as a 99 Legacy GT. It has Outback struts/springs all around. The front has a 12" spacer on top, the rear 10" on top and about an inch of lift at the strut base. 2" wheel spacers all around. Body lift blocks are 7.5". He says he's had to replace 1 axle in the 3 years since he lifted it.

As far as power goes, forced induction is your best bet. Your geometry won't be too horrible with the Outback subframes and stock Legacy GT suspension, although I'm sure the right subframes will help.

It looks like I should be able to fit the tires I want without much lift, mostly just trimming and making sure I get spacing right. I might have 1/2-3/4" lift at most. I'd be interested in removing the blocks that go between the crossmembers and chassis so that I can get a bit more ground clearance. I understand that it isn't a ton, but if I want to drive over a certain size rock I'll have a lower center of gravity without the body lift than with. My impression from other forums is that there are spacers for the engine crossmember, for the tranny crossmember, and for the rear subframe. There's also a mount for the driveshaft that might need to be played with. Is this right? Has anyone here removed it? How long did it take you? I live in California so no real rust. Thanks for any help.

I wouldn't drive it unless absolutely necessary. Worst case scenario is the wheel falling off, you can imagine what that could lead to if it happens at the wrong time. My 99 Outback also needed a wheel bearing at one point, due to a bent hub. No clue how the bent hub happened, just know that it did. This was when it was my mom's car, she didn't drive it like I do - if there was one bent now I'd blame my driving.

Here's some of the stuff I did out there https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10202671637684882

None of the other 3 appeared to lose any air, and the one that went flat held the same pressure for the next 16 hours. I don't think I was playing for a full hour before it went flat, either.

I went and played around at the dunes yesterday and today. Car is a 99 Outback wagon, EJ25D, 4EAT. Original suspension, stock size (205/70-15) all seasons (Toyo Extensa A/S). Pretty much the only mods are tube front bumper/no rear bumper skin, and a WRX seat. I was running 15f/13r. There was a nice bulge, but not excessive. It was doing quite well, I was pretty surprised at how capable it was. After one landing the steering felt a little funny, so I stopped and found the front right tire was flat. It didn't appear to be off the bead, but had zero air in it. A little CO2 from a friend's tank and it filled back up no problem, I went to 15psi again. I didn't play around after that, just went back to camp and then home. Was I running excessively low pressures? I generally hear half of street pressure is about right, which was dead on up front. The rears were a little lower but you're less likely to pop a bead on them. What pressures do you run?