mcbrat
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Posts posted by mcbrat
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with eyesores Gen1, my 2, and another wagon I've seen around, there's at least 4 in Iowa that still run and are licensed.... but not pretty
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I saw one of those this weekend on a vehicle with a removeable top, but don't remember what is was.
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also forgot. has rear disc brakes as well.
it's the fastest off the line of any soob I have, including the turbo brat....
noticed that the front end is tweaked a bit
I can see the brushguard on the left side, but not the right side (while driving)unfortunately they don't make that size mud terrain anymore
got mine on an awesome eBay deal. $225 shipped for 4
I think the smallest BFG MT they have now is a 29x9.50x15 ...
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1982 Brat GL
93k on body, approximately same on non-original motor with new headgaskets.
gasket matched intake and adapter for Weber 32/36 from an Opel 1.9 litre
4/3 BYB Lift by PK Davis (slightly modified)
LSD Rear
27x8.50x14 BFG Mud Terrains
Stock High rollbar
Custom bumpers made from John Deere steel (from a combine)
Custom skidplate made from a Gen1 large skidplate. attached with a 1" spacer block to clear the custom exhaust)
Custom Exhaust is 1.75" at heads, and 2.25" from the Y back with a MagnaFlow muffler.
and the Heater even works!
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There's plenty of trails for stock rigs. ran into a few VW powered vehicles as well at the hill climbs, etc....
Here's the pics. only 30, as my camera gave out....
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the maroon brat for sale was the Leg-a-brat with the 2.2 engine in it..... don't know if it ever sold or not....
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I'm back. had a great time. unfortunately I found out that even though my camera can see all 528MB of the CF card, it cannot write to all of it...
went through some nasty stuff alright. the first hill climb we did, I couldn't make. not enough power, and the soil is like powder at this place....
made some other climbs though. had the motor die twice on me due to the angle
down and to the side. could reach out and touch the ground both places but no body damage lots of tree scratches the. narrow quad trails. not a real good place for full size rigs. I did lose one front turn signal when I was abruptly halted on a hill climb when my front end dropped intoa hole...will post some pics later. a few hill climb shots of some built jeeps, and some still shots of the different rigs.
41 vehicles showed up.
1 Sammy
1 Subaru
1 scout (originally
)many jeep flavors
many Chevy flavors
many Ford flavors
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will be heading out after work today. still got plenty of packing to do yet.... Brat looks awesome!!!!!! I'll be sure to get lots of pics....
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I actually got mine working again. kept playing with it since I didn't want to take the lock off, and it started working again!!!
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if you want it to be able to be on any time, you can use a DPDT (double pole, double throw) switch, and junk the stock relays and switch. here's the diagram to do it...
There is another way to use the stock switch with a DPDT Relay. Clantieri wrote up a piece on how to do this, but it hasn't nmade it inot the USRM yet....
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I'll be doing the same as my 82 Brat now has a gunked up lock as well....
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right, you'd have to pull the positive cable, then all the juice would come from the alt (which is what normally happens when it's running/charging properly....
question: when it's running, do you see a noticeable momentary drop in the voltage when your turn signal flashes? not the hazard cuircuit, but the actual turn signals.
if you have power windows, does it drop also when raising or lowering them?
these are the sysmptoms I had when I lost 3 alts in about 4 months. ended up being the accessories circuit from the ignition switch. all my connectors were good, but there was a problem in the wiring somewhere. to reduce the load on that circuit, I cut the wire going to the fuseblock section for the ACC circuit. I used a relay switched by the existing ACC circuit (which normally fed the panel), then had a direct 12V line from the battery feed the Relay, then into the normal ACC circuit. this way the load was all on the direct feed instead of the ACC feed from the ignition.
have never had another problem since, and no more jumping voltmeter....
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I went down through the rubber plug near the vacuum pumps, then down along the other wiring harness under the sill cover trim, then up underneath the side trim behind the seats, where there is a hole into the "cavity" between the bed and the external sheetmetal. then I came through the first acces panel. I took the acess panel off, and used a ball peen hammer with the panel sitting across 2 pieces of wood, and hammered out a bulge in the panel edge (after flattening the edge). panel now mounts back in perfectly, and there's just a little bump out where the wires come through.
I guess by "no holes" I should have said "no drilling"
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when I modified the rear of my front fender well, I made cuts perpendicular to the curve of the fender about 2-3 inches apart (as deep as you want to "roll" it back), then I used a hammer to gently
push the sections back. so at that point in the fender well, my "lip" is a few inches wide instead of .5" I also left enough space behind so it can be cleaned out of any mud or nasty salt in the winter....Note: This is on a 80-84 fender....
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got the Brat back last night with a nice set of new bumpers front/rear, a modified large Gen1 Skidplate, reinforced diff hanger (not installed)
had some trouble with the ignition switch, and accidently launched the car (I always park in Neutral, but welder guy had it in 1st) while I was kneeling on the pavement with my body in the drivers side floor area. nothing like a little skin loss from scraping your knee across the cement! really stinging today!
got my wiring runs in last night and fuse/relay panel made.
(found a nice way to get power to the bed area without drilling any holes, or going through a window....)
Still left to do before Friday:
install fuse panel
connect relays
install slant radio console with stock radio and lighted switches
install XT6 alt
install skid plate spacer
paint bumpers/skid plate
adjust off-road lights
install jump seat frame and jump seats
pack, pack, pack
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mine was the same way, and I ended up increasing the timing....
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do you have spring compressors on? if not, don't go any further, or you could get injured.
get some spring compressors (mcPherson type) and put them on. once the pressure is off then use a pry bar to hold the remaining mount bolt down while loosening the nut.
the last set of mounts I replaced, the tiny bearings were ground down to mush...... so if you get a used one, make sure the bearings are okay....
(the new ones I put on had teeny tiny little roller bearings between two big washers basically)
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for the US:
87 Brat
89 Hatchback
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the place is supposed to have trails for every type of wheeling... I've never been there though....
I will be sure to have a full report with lots of pictures....
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yes, they will fit. you can use the standard lug nuts as well. I've got over 30k on a set of pug steels with soobie lug nuts, and no problems yet....
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so who's still in?
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I got my fuse block from
works really well so far..
mines mounted on the firewall where the cruise vacuum unit would normally sit...
I'm gonna have 2 panels. one constant 12V, and the other switched off the ignition...
one inside would be nice, if you're doing the stereo and such....
Hitachi to Nippondenso Disty conversion.
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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whenever I've done them, it was a straight swap over....