nipper
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Posts posted by nipper
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Thanks to all of you who responded to my query.
Fortunately, all I needed to do was to disconnect the battery for a few minutes and presto the CEL went away
This is despite the fact that the guy at the AutoZone checked the computer and said it was a code P0420 (Catalytic Convert Operating below Threshold).
P.S. I did make sure to add a quart of oil before any of this.
Dont be so cocky. :-p
It will come back, and the same code. It comes and goes untill it stays on. You most likely need a front O2 sensor (which should be from subaru).
Your car is at the right mileage for the O2 sensor to quit, or start getting lazy. They do wear out.
nipper
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I get great heat out of the floor board heater and good out of the defroster, could one of the slides be stuck or something?
I dont remember how this one works. I think its vacum motors move the doors in the hvac system to direct air. You may have a broken motor or linkage.
nipper
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???? your name is nipper, the world is round....he didn't mention anything about lights, only that the battery shows corrossion.
He said no indictaion from "instruments" which i am assuming is the dash gauges.
i can be wrong.
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Your overthinking it. If you have voltage at the motor connection (one side goes to the switch, the other is hot), then you need a replacement motor. You cant really rebuild them. I think a universal replacement fits.
nipper
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Altenator light only comes on for an undercharge. Whay hasnt anyone stated the obvious:-p
Take a 12.00 multimeter from radioshack and see what the battery voltage is while the car is running.
Overcharging in a modern car isnt a good thing. Depending upon how high the voltage is, some of the electronics and the bulbs wont be happy.
nipper
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At 270,000 miles, its just tired. If it is engaging the hydraulics are ok. The slow engagement is the clutch plates slipping, just like in an automatic tranny when it starts slipping.
I wouldnt recomend having the unit rebuilt at this mileage, I would look for a low mileage used tranny instead.
nipper
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Does the heat/defrost position work?
nipper
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i wonder the same thing about radio shack.
Radioshack has been having problems last few years, so nothing to wonder about. All i see is overpriced junk and affordable lightbulbs.
nipper
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On my way back from school just now I tried to turn on some heat so it would come out the top vents, slide was in the "Circ A/C-Max" position and all I could get was a mostly cool breeze. Two days ago it would burn you out of there and now all of a sudden it just quit. What the heck gives?
I'm confused here, you want heat in the max ac mode?
nipper
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Any shops that specialize in 4wd pickups or off road vehicals? They make custom driveshafts too.
nipper
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I've got a manual. I read on another forum that this may be tied into the radiator fan always blowing. Something along the lines of the sensor thinking that the car isn't moving, so the fan blows all the time.
What I'm wondering is what would be the advantage of getting this fixed right away?
Your fans are always on?
Normally the fans are governed by the engine temp, UNLESS the diagnostic plugs (green) under the dash are connected. Then the fans will run constantly, the cel will be on. I dont know about the VSS and spedo, since no one has really driven with this test connector connected.
Look under the dash, i think near the gas pedal. Are these connected?
(at least i think 05 still have them)
nipper
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Thanks.
I've not had any torque bind before this (tested it when i bought the car). But will test it again once I can. Nevertheless, sounds like I'm bound for a trip to the dealer anyway?
Any reason why not a transmission shop?
Thanks,
Dealers dont sell you transmissions, they sell you repairs.
Tranny shops sell you transmissions. They dont really care about reparing them. And of course they have to takth the entire things apart to diagnose it.
nipper
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Quick and dirty test of the worst case scenario.Go out and drive in a circle. The car should move in a smooth motion with very little or no gas. If you have to give it gas, or cant turn the wheel to lock, its a torque bind issues.
If it fails the test put in the fwd fuse and see if it goes away.
Thats one reason for the light, and one that costs the most money to fix.
If it fails the fuse test, just get it to the dealer.
DO NOT go to a tranny shop.
nipper
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I hate to complicate this any further, but I have to clarify Nipper's responce. NY, in all its wisdom, has 2 seperate emission programs. One for 'downstate' (NYC and surrounding counties), and another for the rest of the state. Nipper refers to the downstate tests, and Im sure he is more familier than I with that program. Up 'here' and anywhere else in the state outside the NYC metro area, we have a system that sounds just like NH's. No dyno for anything, AWD or not. Its simply plugged into the NYVIP computer which reads the codes and readiness monitors, and also 'knows' if the CEL should be on. Any codes which should light the CEL (if its actually ON or not, and more than one monitor not set (actually 2 can be open, 96-99) and it fails inspection. Its a aggravating thing for everyone, including myself as a NYS inspector, who has to try and explain the bulls**t to a lot of unhappy car owners.
Incidently, I have had no problems re-setting monitors on my 96 Outback, its WAY, WAY easier than any 96 or 97 Nissan. They are a royal pain in the a**, and since they passed NY inspection for years before this program started, it makes for a lot of bad feelings with their owners. I plan on keeping my '95 Nissan truck for as long as I can, just because it will never be plugged into that damn NYVIP machine! LOL!
Ah i thought we switched to one system. Maybe time to move upstate
. We also get plugged into the big 'puter.nipper
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I never thought I would recieve such an unbeleivably specific response. Thank you! Also, this doesn't matter really but I'm curious as to what are the "sniffers that other states use."
And good observation about the cheapness factor. I'm no liberatarian but I'm about as cheap as they come.
Thanks again to everyone for the interesting and helpful advice!
In NY there are two tests. there is the standard dyno test. All AWD vehicals (with the EPA's blessing on which ones) are exempt from dyno testing here, so we get the sniffer at idle and again at 2500 rpm. They do the saftey test first, then emissions. There is a special sticker if the car passes saftey, and fails emissions when 400.00 will not repair the car. But that requires three attempts to solve the problem and a visit to the DMV.
nipper
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Windsheild glass is wierd. Its multilayerd and under a lot of stress. Its also not really a solid. New windsheilds on occasion crack for no reason. My 1987 GL cracked one day for no reason. You may want to check for chassis rot just in case.
It happens.
nipper
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those of us that say to use OEM Subaru (or magnecor) are not saying that "every single aftermarket wire will fail immediately upon installation". it comes down to risks, percentages and how you view car maintenance. for those of us that have replaced hundreds of spark plug wires and have a large base of experiences and mileages to look at, we are conveying the highest level of reliability and least amount of risk that we see. and good point, i'm sure some aftermarkets are better than others, using the cheapest, chain stores sets or "single wires" is a very bad idea for EJ engines.
Lets face it, a lot of people are looking for cheaper wires then OE, and since chain stores tend not to carry high cost wires, they get poor wires.
For the most part the are of lesser quality, with a few exceptions, like I said before.
Wires may not fail immeditaly, but far enough down the raod where you can't get your money back. So in 1 year someone has purchased two sets of wires.
penny wise and dollar foolish
nipper
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If its an automatic you have also lost your AWD. You lost a Vehical speed sensor (but have the codes read anyway). If its a manual, then you mau have only the one. Good idea to get it fixed before it snows, or before you get a speeding ticket..
nipper
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OE wires are usually superior to aftermarket, with one or two exceptions. Considering that OE wires last over 100,000 miles, cost shouldnt be an issue. You can get them reasonably at on line OE supplier.
Plugs should be what subaru recomends. Either one (if you do some hunting you will see can cause missfires and CEL's if not OE. Then your out the cost of the "new" plugs and wires you just had to replace, making OE wires reasonable.
nipper
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This has come up a lot on other subaru sites. New subarus being out of alignment. I suspect its a dealership issue (poor prep) as a 4 wheel alignment takes time, and time is money.
nipper
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You can get a good idea by wrapping a rope around the belts (that has a close dia to the v-belt) and then tying or taping the ends together to hold length. Some of the better gear head mom and pop auto stores will still have a belt sizer. This is used to measure belts length (between two fixed 1/2 moon pullies).
nipper
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My bet is its that cam seals oil pump seal main seal. Its at the right mileage
nipper
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Yeah I've heard that, but I've emailed them a few times and never got a response. I do have a few other rigs I'd like to lift, too, but I need this one done before Christmas, and I don't think I can pool that much money together before then.
They are not tech friendly. The most techy they get is a cell phone. This is not part of thier main business, so you have to watch for a sale.
nipper
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If the CEL is on there should almost deffinately be a code in the computer. Did you try to read them? If so what was it?
Not necassarily. The O2 sensor on my car was alwyas activly setting a fault, so if you tried to clear it the data would get all confused, and no code was set. Now if i read the code fist thing in the morning then i can read it.
You need to use the code reader a few times a day, especially after a cold start, and you may be able to snag the code.
Also a differnt brand code reader may do it. Snag the code right after you disconnect the battery for an hour.
hopes that helps.
I wouldnt be surprised if its the front O2 sensor. That can be tested with a multimeter if we still cant get a code off the ECU.
nipper
Crazy Gas MPG rating
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Recomendation is three tanks of gas, but two will do (anything in engineering is done in at least a set of three).
nipper