nipper
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Posts posted by nipper
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the BIG question, did you squirt any oil in the cylinders before you stored the car. Did you cover the intake and exhaust?
When fuel hits the oil it can make an acid. When there is no mileage put on the car go by time, since the oil did see 300 miles on it, i would change it.
Besides there is nothing worng with 30.00 worth of insurance vs a engine wiped out.
nipper
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Last night I went out and pumped the brakes around five times they held fine, then I started the car and the pedal moved towards the floor. The car has brakes but they are not as good as the ones in my other postal wagon which is a 97, this one is the 98 that I paid 100.00 dollars for back in April. Its now close to 2.000.00 dollars that I have in it,but I would not sell it for that as the right hand drives are getting harder to get. I also noticed when I stepped on the brake pedal the park lights and dash lights came on.
Your the second with that light issue. Remove the bulbs one at a time in the brake lights til the problem goes away, then inspect that socket or replace it. Also make sure thy are working and the fliamint isnt shorting out the lights.
its quite possible that it is the master cylinder then. You may want to replavce the flex brake lines. People seem to over look those. I would replace those first (since they are old enough to warrent it anyway).
nipper
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I was just going to replace the oil pump because it would be easy...but you talked me out of it. Well thats -$100.
The seperator plate is exactly what nipper said. If mine is plastic then its getting changed.
What is the old style tensioner??
now if your car was closer to 200,000 miles i would recomend inspecting the oilpump and possibly changing it. At your low mileage, just replace the seals.
nipper
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Mud
Mud looks good on a sooby and will cover things like that
nipper
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1) I seriously doubt the oil pump needs REPLACING at 120k. A reseal would be a good idea, which would consist of nothing more than a front main seal, a small O-ring, and a small amount of RTV sealant. I know of 2.2's going 300k miles on their original oil pumps.
2) You SHOULD replace the tensioner, but I've seen cars go longer than that with their originals. I also am pretty sure the idler pulley is okay too. Likewise, I've seen 300k out of original idler pulleys too.
3) What is the 'separator plate' you speak of?
i agree, no need to replace the oilpump, just reseal it. On the older 1.8 You would replace them at the 3rd timing belt just because they were cheap.
Replace the tensioner
The seperator plate (i think) is that mystery plate in the bell housing. Some of them are plastic and leak like seives after a while. I still dont know thier purpose in life.
nipper
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Hi Frag,
Thanks for humoring me
. I agree that pressure will affect circumference. What I propose is that inflation pressure affects two quantities: (1) the actual circumference of the tire (stretching/deforming the tread shape) and (2) the rigidity of the tire's shape (affecting axle height). Portion (1) should result in a change of the axle's RPM, but not (2). What this means to me is that having two different tire sizes inflated to achieve equal axle heights does not guarantee equal RPM at the axles.
What do you think?
I will test this theory tonight by adjusting my tire pressures until the axels are of equal height, then checking the rotations/circumferences using the "parking lot" method suggested on these forums, and post back here. My tires are of different brand/treadwear.
Your right, but i think that we are all forgetting WHY not so much the how.
SUbaru AWD is unique in the fact that the clutch pack is always engaged (unless the fuse is installed). It splits power from 10/90 to 50/50. The clutch pack is designed to accept some slippage, max being 20% speed differnetial between the front and rear axles for realtivley short periods of time. Most the time its no more the n a few percent (roads arent straight).
a differntial takes the speed of the driveshaft and splits it mechancially by 2. We will assume a simple ratio. Straight both wheels are turning 1:1. Make a turn it may be 1.5 on the left, .5 on the right. The speed of the driveshaft has not changed. . Now have mismatched tires on one axle, you are stressing the differntial (especially on a manual).
The front and rear axles do not turn at the same speed. This is because the front wheels turn, where as the rear wheels do not. The front axle actually turns a bit faster speed. (im assuming a normally RWD car only because ive gone to far to rewrite this).
By compensating for circumfrence with tire inflation, you are adding saftey issues. An overinflated/underinflated tire can hydroplane easier. It can cause odd braking and emergency handling. the difference in inflation is magnified by load.You are adding more drag on the differnentials.
Human nayure being human nature, somone is going to forget one tire is supposed to be 5psi less then the other tire to balance the rotational speed. A shop may check your tires while the car is in for service and you nor know it.
There are too many things that can go wrong and the price can be too high.
The tire chalk mark is an acceptable method of checking circumfrence. ALso once its measured make a hard turn and see how the tires end up in all differnt positions.
:cool: i hope i explained things well, as i do this better in person then on line. SInce your tires are of differnt sizes, the chalk marks should get out of synch, which is very bad for the clutch pack.
nipper
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Do you have an email addy for jamie or should I call and ask for her?
Jamie Thomas
Internet Parts Manager
toll free: 800.962.0822
**************
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would have been a cool 2 door extended cab type pickup (so you can properly adjust the seats. Then i would have bought one myself.
nipper
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Nipper: Isn't it possible that the front O2 sensor being out of whack could also cause a catalyst efficiency code??
That is, if the ECU is comparing front vs rear O2 readings, and the front is off, but the rear is working normally, it would provide a confusing set of data, triggering the fault..
It is still possible that just the front O2 sensor is faulty, in my estimation, but it wouldn't hurt to change both unless the cost of the second sensor would break your budget.
Matt
in all honesty i'm not sure, it can go either way. My logic is that the cat can handle a wide varity of a/f irregularities and compensate for them without going out of acceptable limits. i should have re worded one of my replies. i think the second is only measuring the cat output, not comparing itself to the first one (i goofed). ild still say replace both, since he isnt geting an o2 sensor failure light, but has all the symptons, but he is getting a failed cat output code.
If i could see the scanner reading the sensor outputs in real time, i would say for sure either way, but i cant.
nipper
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If you are tight for cash, replace front one (the more exp) and cross your fingers, but you have two seperate problems. the running issues (the front o2 sensor) and the cat effeciency code (the rear o2 sensor). It ran fine after you reset the computer cause it took a few days for things to happen again. i bet your sensors arent failed yet, but they are slow/lazy or on the edge.
nipper
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Don't know about the struts, but I done took care of that "dancing bannana" for you.
But we like the banana
:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: 
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Thanks for the tips, I will bleed them one more time and check and make sure no wheel cyclinders are leaking, if that dont take care of it I will replace the master cyclinder.
STOP! (hehe thats right you cant)
There is the master cylinder and the power brake booster. both give the same symptons. You also have brake lines that do age internally and you cant really tell.
Test the PB. with the car off press the brake pedal untill all boost is exhausted (5-10 times). Put your foot on the brake pedal, then start the car, the pedal should move towards the floor. If it doesnt you have a bad booster.
Did you re use the brake fluid from bleeding. you can not do that as the fluid is airated.
What do you mean by "their is not as much pedal " exactly.
There are claipers on the front, and calipers or wheel cylinders on the rear.
How did you bleed the brakes.
nipper
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Hey Nippster, where did i put my keys?!?! argg......
they are right where you left them
*slowly backs away with shiney key like objects*
nipper
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i put the fuse in for FWD and the grumbling went away.......ill change out the tranny fluid and see if it helps......how much is the fix for this if fluid doesnt work
Thats a very good sign. that means that nothing is frozen together and elecrically everything works. Change the fluid, drive the car in a full lock circle and that should ungum everything. Still a 5% chance of it not fixing it, but it sounds good
nipper
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did you take a straight edge to all the mounting srufaces, both lengthwise and cross wise to make sure its flat and parallel. Hate to have you spend big bucks on a new pan (if its even available, wasnt on the parts site).nipper
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I have a problem with the heater control in recirc mode that I cannot seem to find a solution to. Noone on here seems to know either. It makes a clicking noise under the dash when I put it in recirc mode. I just leave this off.
The recirculate door motor is bad. It is a motor with a gear and it cant tell that it has reached its full travel. Since it cant find itself, it keeps overrunning the cam. Its either that or the door is broken, but i do belevie you need a new recirculate motor.
nipper
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except you dont just get "fuel" from the injectors. you also get fuel from the evap system. When you first start the car, the stored fumes are released into the manifold. Maybe this is where the problem is. Your not running the car long enopugh to burn all the fumes or the evap valve is getting lazy. BUt it sure does sound like flooding. NExt time let the car run a little longer and see if the same thing happens.
nipper
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way cool. i guess im used to the older style,
nipper
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Both mechs also believe that my inefficient-cat code/light could not be caused by sickly O2 sensor(s), despite that scenario making sense to me. Anyway, that light has remained off after 3 days and 100+ miles. Would that make sense if my cat were really on it's way out?
?
You hit the nail on the head. The second o2 sensor is checking the effeciency of the cat, by comapring to the first one. The first one talks to the ECU. o2 sensors have a life of about 100k miles. Besides even if it is the cats, i still would recomend replaceing the o2 sensors aand the cat at the same time (unless you know they have been replaced once already). So replace the o2 senors. i think the second one can be generic, the first must be OE. Most the time this will fix it, and its much cheaper to replace o2 sensors and have it fix it, then replace the cats and have the problem still be there.
nipper
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i vote for an o2 sensor. First off we need to know what codes are apparent. Not all codes will turn on the cel if they are of a short duration. They may stay in memory. I dont beleive it is a cat, as they tend to last a very long time. There is a test for the cat. Bang it with your hand. If it rattles its bad (the breakdown of the internal materials will rattle around). Cats are the least likely choice.
When the car is cold it is in an open loop. This means it is running off preprogramed paramiters. Once the car warms up it goes into closed loop, this is where its reading alll the sensors. One of the sensors that are locked out of open loop is the o2 sensor.
K & N filter not a great thing to do. research air filters here, you will see they allow more flow by letting more dirt to go by.
Right now i would drive the car untill the cel goes back on, then pull the codes. If the mechanics never scaned for codes shame on them. If you bought it to them after you cleared the codes they are forgiven.
Also a scanner will read things in real time. you can see exaclty what the o2 sensor, tps and several other sensors are doing in real time. The TPA will have the same sympton at the same point in the throttle, as it is a very simple rheostat.
The o2 sensor tells the car how to adjust the A/F mixture for optimal performance and emissons. Since it is on its way out, it is acting weird. This throws off the AF ratio so you get hesitation, surging and everything else you complained about.
nipper
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There are little plastic tabs that hold the female balde terminals in. If they broke those tabs, you will never get them to stay in. Best bet is to get a new pigtail and wire it in. ALso some terminsal snap in from the front of the connector (makes perfect sense on the assembly line). These are never meant to be serviceable.
nipper
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Damn, I just totaled up how much my repairs would cost. I'm pretty bumed out about it. Here's the deal; I need a new clutch, and oil seals. Since the engine is going to be out for the clutch and front seals, I should replace oil and water pump, timing belt, seperator plate, and vc gaskets.
Total ~ $739.37 (no labor - I cant do clutches)
Question...Should I also do the timing tensioner and idler? Its a 2.2~120k
Total w/ timing tensioner and idler ~ $846.29
Now the labor....I am assuming 10hrs on the high side (?)
10 x $68 = $680
Total with all above parts and labor ~ $1526.29
This sucks.
Actually that does not suck. It may ba a shock at first, but once you do this you should be good to go till 200,000 miles. Also buy the parts yourself, I bet you can bring down the cost.
nipper
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If its a hollow knock it can be the center bearing or drive shaft universals. If it is the dealer is going to come back with a shocking number. Let us know what the dealer finds then we can advise from there.
nipper
Justy forum back up and running!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
yes i just got my aproval today
nipper