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Georg

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    Germany
  • Vehicles
    91' Legacy (Winter), 79' Audi 80 (Summer)

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  1. Replacing the bearings requires to split the case. I've never done it before but I guess if you replace only the roasted bearing it won't involve any rocket science. However if I'll decide to repair it in future to have a spare trans again I'll replace all bearings and balk rings which probably will require some shimming.
  2. Hmm in the end it was the transmission itself. Along it's last days there was an audible bearing noise coming up with the clutch engaged. Runs as good as new again now with a spare trans
  3. Hi guys, 91 Legacy 1.8 with 5spd Dual-Range MT (cable clutch) and 370.000km on the clock: Clutch was done 20.000km ago incl. throwout and pilot bearing (all parts OE). Yesterday within a 500km drive I noticed the gear shifts getting more difficult and suspected a problem with improper clutch disengagement. I had checked the cable adjustment and it was fine but to be sure I had tightened it up a little more to the point of maximum possible clutch fork movement (fork touching a metal bracket sitting behind). Gearshifts were still difficult. What is odd however is that putting it into reverse while the car is stationary is still going smooth. Only forward gears require to double clutch. Also with a gear engaged and the car standing still I can't notice the car crawling. It may be imagination but I also feel the trans (probably input shaft bearing) got noisier within the past time. Can a bad trans bearing cause shifting difficulties similar to bad clutch disengagement? I have a spare trans available in case. Any idea folks? Thank you Georg
  4. Welcome, on all season tires my best choice regarding mileage and performance so far is Vredestein Comtrac All Season in 195/80R14 Have 50000km on my current set and they're still in a reasonably good condition. If your car does see or has seen road salt in winter time it is very likely that it will suffer from rust on the body around the rear wheel wells and strut towers including rear subframe and fuel lines in this area. So please for a long term ownership do consider some kind of rust prevention. However apart from rust issues a 1st gen Legacy is the most reliable car I've ever worked on. All the best Georg
  5. Hi, Generally speaking, if a rod bearing (big end) is noisy it means there is metal contact between crank pin and the bearing. As the bearing was designed for operation under hydrodynamic lubrication (that prevents metal to metal contact) it will fail very soon once it emits noticable noise. If it really is a big end bearing failure there's no way to make a solid statement or even a guess on residual life as it massively depends on operating conditions, damage progress etc. Typically a bearing failure ends up in either an engine seizure or a conrod exiting through the crankcase with subsequent potential oil leakage and fire. However as you're calling it a rattling noise i have some doubts on this bearing theory. There are some nice rod knock examples on Youtube you can compare with:
  6. Good evening guys, there is a really odd phenomenon on my 91 EJ18 since I own the car and which I can't really explain to myself. As it happened to me again recently I thought may one of you ever witnessed something similar on a Suby engine? When I park the car for longer than a few days or up to couple of weeks and I then try to start the engine the following happens: The engine cranks but does not start. The cranking noise gives the impression as if there is a complete loss of compression on all cylinders as it revolutes in a perfectly even speed. Like with spark plugs removed. I then just have to crank the engine for reeeaaaaally long (usually I pull the fuel pump fuse to not flood my engine during that) and you then actually hear from the cranking noise how one cylinder after the other is coming back to life. After doing that for maybe 40sec and with the fuse in place again in runs completely fine. When driving the car as a daily it never happens. It then starts perfectly, hydraulic lash adjusters are also not noisy in any way or condition. Vehicle mileage is 340.000km, the issue is present since I own the car (200.000km). I guess for some reason the valves can not close whilst going through that. But why?? Any of you have a clue? THX in advance Reg from GER Georg
  7. @Husker We purchase it from a local dealer in Germany, but I doubt they are shipping to US Hope you can find a US dealer here: http://www.fluid-film.com/shop/ Here's a nice overview on the different FF types: http://fluidfilm.de/en/produkte/
  8. Absolutely great stuff FluidFilm. Especially for a car that already has some rusty spots as FF can actually stop further corrosion over many many years if re-applied regularly. There are different viscosities on the market going from liquid up to a very tough gel. I usually spray it once a year (NAS viscosity, slightly mixed with PermaFilm). For some spots I use the gel using a brush.
  9. Hey guys, I got a problem on my 91 Legacy Wagon: Haven't had any issues on this yet but since this morning I can't open my tailgate anymore. While pulling the lever it feels quite normal, nothing unusual however it just does'nt release the lock somehow. Any of you guys ran into something like this before? Thanks in advance Georg
  10. Hi, glad to see another enthusiast from around the world! I only have wiring diagrams for Legacy 1.8 and 2.2, guess what you need is a diagram for 2.5? All the best Regards from Germany Georg
  11. Hi there, On my 1990 legacy 1.8 it was the coolant temp sensor causing the gauge to do funny things years ago. Hope you will find the problem. Cheers Georg
  12. Maximum respect to you for raising such a project!! You are doing metalwork as Main job?
  13. Without further modifications I think you will get in trouble using anything bigger than 205/70R15. With the current setup including a 40 mm lift the front wheels clash at some locations inside the wheel wells while deflecting and cornering. BTW: I must admit that changing tire size here in Germany is a different story due to the fact that you have to get an official approval that the new size does not affect the safety of the car. To check tire clearance they usually lift the car, put some spacers under the wheels front left and rear right f.e. and let it down to simulate deflection whilest steering to the limits in both directions. Unfortunately my brother's car failed this test caused by the front tires touching this rectangular frame rail and the rear tires having not enough clearance to somewhere I don't remember (in the eye's of the official...). So all in all even if things work, you sometimes have to be a criminal to do them in this lovely country
  14. Only this one my brother sent me. He chose Conti AT tires as it is his daily driver.
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