the sucker king

Not on a 1980 model. On 80 and 81 and possibly 1982 as well, The fusible link is about 6 to eight inches down the wire from the possative terminal of the battery (it's more of an "in-line" variety). It is two insulated wires with a plastic connector on each end, about 4 inches long total.

by the way what bobdy style is youe 80. I have had 3 X 80 hatches and I think they are very cool in that they were the first of their kind. Take a look at this thread and tell me if you have the fuse kit pictured in the first post. It was a recall item specific to 80 and 81 and mine does not work, don't know if I have it hooked up right: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128864

It sounds like the voltage regulator, maybe the replacement one was bad. I have had them bad out of the box before. Where did you find the VR? I can't get them from the dealer anymore, it was an ebay crap brand that I had bad from the get go. Anyways use a multimeter to see what charge you are getting at the battery with the car running (if you can get it to run) and take it from there.

Welcome to the site, very nice car!

interesting. thanks for the link. I don't know if the skid plate was on it still.

Just saw at the junkyard a 94 legacy badged "Mi" never saw that before, anyone know anything about it?

thanks Tom! I know what a PITA it is to swap cores, I've done it twice before and I am hoping to avoid it in this instance.

how do you test a core to see if it's clogged? Can you disconnect hose in the engine bay, pour water in one hose and see if it comes out the other?

Hehe now that's funny. I grew up near you. New Lebanon. I remember when the thruway bridge over the scoharie creek collapsed. If you are 21, that would have been about 5 years before you were born. Did you just change your location? I thought it said scoharie, which I may have spelled wrong.

it was a new 195 degree t-stat from car quest. I know everyone says don't use anything but an oem t-stat, but I couldn't get one in this instance.

on this 77 wagon, temp guage shows low temp no matter how long the car runs, heater will kick out warm air for a minute then run cool. I replaced the thermostat, not with an oem one but with a 195 degree one from car quest, no difference at all. It seems like the engine is just not getting to temp. I will put a temp. gun on it when I can borrow one, but assuming the thermometer is showing correct on the guage (about 25% from the bottom), what gives? any ideas?

wow.

I have a pair in northern Colorado, send me your zip if you want me to quote shipping. i'll go cheap cheap, they are just taking up space.

Solved! they started using a different switch sometime after 83. It is on top of the lever and requires a smaller hose. So to access the old switch, you had to remove the stereo console, the newer switch can be accessed by dropping the heater control face plate.

Yeah, I just posted another! What book did you get the kickdown answer from? I have seen this relay in cars with both auto and manual transmissions. I know that doesn't rule it out, just sayin...

Let's see if somebody can help me with this- You know the fresh air intake on your ventilation system for ea81 cars? It draws in air above the blower fan. It works by manifold vacuum holding a trap door open (you have noticed the large metal vacuum thing kind of in front of the blower motor). When you move the lever to "CIRC-AC Max", the vacuum is cut off and the trap door slams shut. Here is what the switch/lever looks like from below: The black switch is what shuts the vacuum off when the lever is moved, you can see the plate that makes contact with it. This is what it looks like on all the ea81 cars i have dealt with, all 83 and older. Today I ran into a snag in trying to hook this up on my hatch, in which I have installed a dash that i pulled from a JY literally about 8 years ago. If i recall it was an 86 hatch it came from. The holes are there to mount the switch, but there is no plate on the lever to make contact with the switch. I suspect there was a different switch used on the later year gen 2 cars? I don't suppose anyone knows what i need to do to hook this up?

Title says it all.

Yes it is a brand new OEM cable. You mention an XT6 pressure plate, Is that different than the regular ea82 pressure plates? superior? I have driven this around a couple days now, I like it very much. It feels a little different from the stock set up and it definately grips real nice.

no you should either call the dealership and add it to your order or you can get a spring of the right length and stiffness at any hardware store.

according to Bently's, lug nuts should be 59 to 70 ft lbs and axel nut should be 144 ft lbs on ea81s

And if you have a little money to sink into this car, consider an aftermarket weber carb to replace what came in your car. Will eliminate a lot of trouble.

backfire plus missing are most likely related. You are not firing sending unburnt fuel into your exhaust. You did wires plugs cap and rotor. Did you give the distributer shaft a little wiggle? If you didn't, do it and if there is any play replace it (a little up and down play is normal, you are just looking for side to side slop). There are several cars in Denver junkyards that would have a distributer for you. If that checks out okay, check your timing. The carb should be adjusted properly at the same time as timing, you want your idle @ 800 to 1000 when you set timing. Set your mixture first, then the idle, recheck the mix, etc till it's right. Then timing. I think spec for timing is +8 degrees, you can certainly go a little higher (10 or so). Then set the idle again if need be. That's where I would start.

Got it all back together last night and took a quick drive this AM, clutch holds great. The cable however, i had to put several washers on just to get it in gear. That quick fix will work for now, and i think I will make a bracket to hold the cable an inch or two behind where it currently sits. Other than that, I'm good. I wonder if a different fork would have been the ticket for the cable issue? Thanks for the help, GD, after I work the kinks out of this we should put this on the USRM. It seems like a cool mod if the end result is a superior clutch for ea81s. I've got some pics to right it up proper style.

Another thing to note is that the timing marks are off by like 7 degrees on the ea82 flywheel, so it is important to paint on some new marks

I hope the 3 mm difference will not effect how the starter mates up!