scotteverett

Bump for Seattle mechanic recommendations, thanks!

Well, before I can worry about winter, I first have to address the fact that the Loyale has decided to stall every block for the first 15-20 minutes of driving now after startup. It idles anywhere from 500-1500 RPM, but is bouncing up and down and stalling within about 15 seconds after startup. I'll make it into 1st and will go about 50-100 feet, with lots of jerking of the car as though the gear hasn't been engaged fully or the acceleration is cutting off intermittently. Then as I slow to a rolling stop at a stop sign and the RPMs decrease to 500 or so it just keeps on going strait to a stall. BTW, I got a fresh tank of gas to be sure it wasn't bad gas. Does anyone have a good Subaru mechanic in Seattle they would recommend I take it to? BTW, the previous owner advised the following: "My first suspicion is the spark plug wires. They're not very old but I had an intermittent stalling problem over the winter. Removing & reinstalling the main wire (from the coil to the center of the distributor) fixed it, but the connection might be flaky. A new set of spark plug wires should be about $50 and you could do it yourself. Just replace them one at a time so the order doesn't get mixed up. The other possible cause would be the coolant temperature sensor, but I replaced that just before selling the car. I replaced the fuel injector last winter which didn't fix the problem. The fuel filter is 3 years old, and I think the fuel pump is original."

So the engine stalled this AM after I started it and drove to the end of the street, while in 1st gear, turning a corner. I started it up again and got to second, and again, turning a corner, stalled. Then came to a light, idled for maybe 15 seconds in neutral, stalled. Drove another 2 minutes then parked and had a meeting for an hour. Came out, drove about 1 mile without issue, but did notice that in 3rd gear, unless I was actively accelerating, the clutch was really jumpy, almost like a sound signal coming in and out. Got back to my house, and just to see what was up sat there in neutral for about 40 second watching the RPMs, mostly hovered around 1k, and then stalled again. Do I need to clean the fuel lines? Really not that familiar with engines, but feel like this is a good first opportunity for me to fix something.

Seattle. Would love to grab a beer anywhere in Subaru driving distance, oh wait....

Thanks Grossgary for clarifying on the pulleys, will look into this coming weekend! Loyill, thats encouraging to hear how well it worked out for you in those conditions. Also, great advice on the rubber sticking, thats actually been happening to me on the hear hatch already in warm conditions, maybe the humidity, so I'll have to look into what I can coat them with to prevent the sticking. The keyhole stuff as well,, good advice.

Thanks for the input guys. Starting to research the LSD option. Regarding repairs, the belts were replaced 20K miles ago, so I think I'm good on that front. Specifically, have had these pieces address: New hatch struts 2007 New left halfshaft 4/2009, 177,500 New right halfshaft 10/2010, 208,000 New front brake calipers, rotors, & pads 5/2011, 220,400 New exhaust (complete) 7/2012, 241,500 New wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints 11/2012 246,000 New timing belts, valve cover gaskets, pcv valve & hoses, spark plugs & wires 12/2012 248,000 New fuel injector 3/2013 252,000 New rear brake pads 12/2013 261,400 Sounds system is good also, so the loud radio option will be utilized.

Great thread, like reading about the incremental steps you are taking.

Thnx Scoobie, I'll look into the 3.9 differential. With any of these mods, I'll be looking to work with a local mechanic, simply not knowledgeable enough to try any of this myself without a mentor of some kind. I also have zero tools. DJellum, thnx for the practical advice on winterizing. I do have chains, and a new set of non-studded snow tires. The fluids are pretty fresh, aside from the transmission fluid, which I will have looked at in the next few weeks. Regarding road noise, it had new stiffer KYB struts & shocks installed in 2013, along with spring helpers in the rear, and urethane rear suspension bushings. I'll do some research on sound deadening. ALthough I know nothing about engines, perhaps I could be successfull at un-installing the seats and removing the carpeting (at least that sounds more realistic, maybe naive of me). The undercoat I'll look into also. Thanks again guys. Also, below is a list of all work done on the car, for reference: Upgrades & Modifications Rear disk brake swap (came with drums). Manual steering (removed power steering pump), feels great, still easy to park, and it frees up power. This increased the gas mileage by 2mpg. Removed mechanical radiator fan, added second electric fan (more power & higher mileage) LED Dome Lights and rear hatch light Cupholders Stereo (Aux, CD, MP3), 6x9 speakers, iphone mount Fog lights Vacuum gauge Stiffer KYB struts & shocks (2013) Spring helpers in the rear, rides great with 4 people + overnight gear Urethane rear suspension bushings Repairs & Maintenance Prior owner - new clutch at 130,000 miles, 2006. New hatch struts 2007, the first of many fixes! Synthetic transmission oil 11/2008 170,000 (might be time for a change) New left halfshaft 4/2009, 177,500 New right halfshaft 10/2010, 208,000 New alternator 6/2010, 200,500 New rear differential oil, synthetic, 211,000 New front brake calipers, rotors, & pads 5/2011, 220,400 (might be time for new front brake pads) New radiator & hoses 6/2011, 222,222 New windshield 8/2011 New starter contacts 11/2011, 228,600 New water pump & thermostat 1/2012, 232,000 New exhaust (complete) 7/2012, 241,500 New wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints 11/2012 246,000 New timing belts, valve cover gaskets, pcv valve & hoses, spark plugs & wires 12/2012 248,000 New fuel injector 3/2013 252,000 New battery 7/2013, 257,400 New rear brake pads 12/2013 261,400 Oil change 3/2014 265,400 miles. Burns 1 quart every 3000 miles. New coolant temperature sensor 5/2014 265,400 Extra parts not installed Dual-range transmission ($150 extra), bought it for when I replaced the clutch, never had to. Hatch-mount 3-bike rack ($150 extra) Power steering pump Hubcaps Second set of wheels with 25% remaining snow tires Manuals - factory (partial 1990 set) Ski/Snowboard rack with key on factory roof rack Block heater Little problems Power door locks haven't worked since I owned it, but they work just fine manually. Intermittent wipers work intermittently - probably corrosion at connector. New heater blower motor clicks (old one squeaked). Easy to replace. Heater controls worn but still work. Windshield is growing a crack from the bottom up. The body is in decent shape, with very little rust, and only one dent where a small piece of the Viaduct fell on it.

Hey all, I am the proud owner of a 94 Loyale, previously taken care of by another USMB forum member. He was an engineer, I am not, but he did a lot of work to optimize gas mileage, so the engine is in better shape than I would imagine most Loyale's at 260K mileage would be. See all details of previous work here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146480-1994-subaru-loyale-wagon-maroon-first-subie/ So now I have the summer to get used to her and begin restoring some interior components that need a little love. But I also am planning ahead to next winter, where I intend to take her to Mt. Baker 3 out of 4 weekends a month. So thats about 3 hours driving, mostly highway, but then sitting in a cold parking lot with often 1 foot of new snow when you return. As I am not a mechanic or car tech, for all I know this vehicle may be perfectly fine for all of the above conditions, but I wanted to see if there were certain upgrades worth pursuing. Specifically what I am thinking about is having the engine run reliably when it's super cold (although it never really gets east coast cold in WA). Being able to reliably heat up the car and defrost the windows (do people upgrade defrost components?). Wipers, making sure they are top notch, and the engine runs fine (is this a simple upgrade beyond quality wiper blades?). The car already has a new set of snow tires and a 1 inch lift, so I'm thinking ground clearance is decent. Lastly, and this is a long shot, but has anyone ever made an effort to decrease highway noise on a loyale? I saw the Safariwagon thread where the car was completely stripped to its metal frame and some sort of sound insulation added. Wondering if this is likely the only way to achieve this. I also had hopes of even working with a mechanic to swap in an EJ22, but given all the work the previous owner put into her, I feel I should roll with the EA82 for a while. Thanks in advance for any tips and experiences from you other snow and mountain lovers out there. -Scott

Even though the fabric is in decent shape, I've always wanted to own a car with VW plaid interior. So considering looking into having the seats re-done with something like this: http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=3777&category_id=165&category_parent_id= If I did go to the effort of re-upholstering, then I'd probably look into firming up the driver's seat a tad. Not sure how that works or if its possible.

A few other shots of her: Rear seats are in almost perfect shape: Front seats pretty good, just s little more worn, and a little depressed and not very firm (guessing this is just the springs).

Thnx! Here are the things I'm going to start looking at addressing: Interior: Door panels are decaying at the corners by the windows on both front doors. Not sure how to address this other than finding a new door panels or painting over the areas where the filling is crumbling away: Heating panel buttons worn off: Exterior Does anyone know where I can get a high quality or NOS version of the 4wd sticker? The paint is actually in prettty good shape, no peeling. Bt the front has seen some rocks over the years. What would I be looking to spend to get some fresh paint done professionally? And can you addressing one section without needing to paint the whole thing? Engine: Fix Power door locks Swap in new wipers and wiper mechanics heater blower motor clicks, so will replace Windshield is growing a crack from the bottom up, not sure how soon I'll need to address There is also a very feint squeal sound when the car is just getting going, and an occasional liquid sound, like water being flushed. Trying to diagnose.

Well, after months of research, and failing to get a 93 or 94 Legacy wagon in decent condition, a fellow USMB member contacted me about his 94 Loyale and I couldn't pass up the opportunity given all the work he had put into it. I actually prefer the look of the Loyale to the Legacy wagon, but the Legacy wagon I test drove felt quite a bit smoother than the Loyale. Maybe road noise, maybe the transmission, or the 2.2 vs the 1.8. Here's a list of all the stuff the previous owner did in an attempt to optimize gas mileage and ensure the car would always start up no matter where he was: Upgrades & Modifications Rear disk brake swap (came with drums). Manual steering (removed power steering pump), feels great, still easy to park, and it frees up power. This increased the gas mileage by 2mpg. Removed mechanical radiator fan, added second electric fan (more power & higher mileage) LED Dome Lights and rear hatch light Cupholders Stereo (Aux, CD, MP3), 6x9 speakers, iphone mount Fog lights Vacuum gauge Stiffer KYB struts & shocks (2013) Spring helpers in the rear, rides great with 4 people + overnight gear Urethane rear suspension bushings Repairs & Maintenance Prior owner - new clutch at 130,000 miles, 2006. New hatch struts 2007, the first of many fixes! Synthetic transmission oil 11/2008 170,000 (might be time for a change) New left halfshaft 4/2009, 177,500 New right halfshaft 10/2010, 208,000 New alternator 6/2010, 200,500 New rear differential oil, synthetic, 211,000 New front brake calipers, rotors, & pads 5/2011, 220,400 (might be time for new front brake pads) New radiator & hoses 6/2011, 222,222 New windshield 8/2011 New starter contacts 11/2011, 228,600 New water pump & thermostat 1/2012, 232,000 New exhaust (complete) 7/2012, 241,500 New wheel bearings, tie rods, ball joints 11/2012 246,000 New timing belts, valve cover gaskets, pcv valve & hoses, spark plugs & wires 12/2012 248,000 New fuel injector 3/2013 252,000 New battery 7/2013, 257,400 New rear brake pads 12/2013 261,400 Oil change 3/2014 265,400 miles. Burns 1 quart every 3000 miles. New coolant temperature sensor 5/2014 265,400 Extra parts not installed Dual-range transmission ($150 extra), bought it for when I replaced the clutch, never had to. Hatch-mount 3-bike rack ($150 extra) Power steering pump Hubcaps Second set of wheels with 25% remaining snow tires Manuals - factory (partial 1990 set) Ski/Snowboard rack with key on factory roof rack Block heater Little problems Power door locks haven't worked since I owned it, but they work just fine manually. Intermittent wipers work intermittently - probably corrosion at connector. New heater blower motor clicks (old one squeaked). Easy to replace. Heater controls worn but still work. Windshield is growing a crack from the bottom up. The body is in decent shape, with very little rust, and only one dent where a small piece of the Viaduct fell on it. More pics and questions to follow in next post...

Ah, yes, I see it now. Sorry guys, that website isn;t the easiest to browse through. I doubt I'll ever find one of these for sale anyways, but wanted to know what was what.

Hey there Td, I went through those pages and don't see any mention of this model. Not sure what part of the page you are referring to. I had gone through Cars-101 before posting and wasn;t successfull at finding any details on this design; A search in these forums brings up a tfew threads where the model is referenced but no details on what it is.

Has anyone ever seen these paint styles before: http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/94_legacy_brochure.htm Are these models different in any way? I'm hunting down the 90-94 legacy wagon to buy and digging around online to learn about the changes each year. I looked at a 93 white wagon last week and it had a maroon strip above the standard (black) stripe that goes from front to back. SO am wondering how many custom pain styles (and custom features) were offered for this model era (90-94). Thanks!

Well, in the end it wasn't the engine that dissuaded me from buying. The guy had abused the interior to all hell. Stains everywhere, smelled funky. I thought about just sending the $2000 and then investing another 1-2K to re-upholster and re-carpet, but decided I'd rather just find a later era leather outback for example, and invest that same 1-2K in an EJ22 swap. I've now driven 2 EJ22's in the last week when test driving cars on Craigslist. The first was a Automatic 93 Legacy wagon, second was the manual 96 OBS. The legacy had a nice low rumble sound, really sort of inspired confidence in me, and the overall pickup and gearshifting felt really healthy. I walked away sort of dreaming I could find a low miles legacy wagon automatic. The OBS on the other hand, while sounding fine (if not a little less manly), just didn't quite feel the same. The transmission seemed fine, if not a little jumpy. I'm guessing the differences I was noticing are less to do with the engine though. Either way, I'm going to be hunting for a 90-94 Legacy Wagon Automatic now, really loved driving it, just felt right.

That's pretty awesome. When you say faster than you can believe, how does it compare with the OEM engine?

Leaving in 2 hours to go meet the guy, who apparently has a mechanic for a dad who will be there also. We'll see how that goes. Let me know if you think there are any red flags I should raise when it comes to the above work or related issues, thanks!

Correction, 186,000 miles, not 1,806.

Hey all, Headed out to look at a 96 OBS, Manual trans, later tonight. 1806K miles, owner has driven it for the last 50k. Claims the 2 main issues that may need to be addressed soon are a right side cracked boot, and then a rack and pinion replacement. He wants $2,000, so I want to go in without blinders on, understanding the csts for the types of issues he highlighted, and any related part failures I should be mindful of. He was saying on the phone the boot is a "non-factor" and may not even need to be addressed. Unsure of wht he thinks that. Thoughts? Here's the original ad: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4432124984.html

Has anyone dealt with them before? They have 2 cars I want, both mid 90s 2.2ls, see here: http://www.seattleautowerx.com/used-cars.php?priceRange=1000-5000&make=Subaru Both at under 2K, so the price is right for my budget and mileage looks reasonable. They have bad Yelp reviews, but Yelp can be hit or miss...

Thats kind of what I was curious about, good to know the reality!

Well, I was thinking of the range of cars that I enjoy looking at, or that have solid interior and utility (space/shape), but which are known for having less than stellar engines. I sort of like the Mitsubishi Outlander, for example...

It seems the most common destination vehicles receiving the 2.2l are Legacy Outbacks. Also there are the VW Vanagons where they seem to be popular. But I began wondering what other cars would potentially be a candidate for the 2.2l swap. I realize this is a total noob question, as I have no knowledge of how engine really work, and the parts that would need to fit/connect/etc, but are there any non Subaru vehicles capable of receiving the 2.2l other than the Vanagons? And I realize with a lot of money many things can be done, so I'm just talking about swaps that wouldn't be an order of magnitude more difficult or costly than the common scenarios I mentioned above.