TheWanderer

Glad to hear she's coming along Hopefully I'll spot ya tooling around town in it soon, that way I'm not the only old school Soob getting funny looks lol

Bump. Someone please help me out with this? I;ve searched but havent found anything other than a bunch of threads on how to separate the lamps to get water out...

I got a set about 2 years back when I bought my SVX (my first Subaru ). Couldn't bring myself to put something this tacky on such a nice vehicle. Ended up giving them to a friend of mine for his family hauler (96 Impreza Outback sport wagon). Fast forward and here I am on my 4th Subaru. Still can't bring myself to get these and put them on, even driving this roached out 88 DL.

YGPM

bump. anyone? Bueller...Bueller...?

Eww, Jersey LOL, I hate going into Jersey...Then again, its still better than Reading PA, so I guess I can't complain I'd gladly trade ya, but would need a parts list to know what to pull from my car and send ya I've got another deal in the works now to buy a set of housings, but no marker lights to pair with it. However I could probably use a second set if you want to send me your setup in exchange for mine (just in case I decide to get crafty or break something during install) I'll cover shipping on my end if you cover it on yours Shoot me a PM and lets put some sort of idea together

Hey guys, looking to axe my 4 lamp setup on the 88 DL 3 door. I know I've read somewhere on the forum here that its possible to install the 2 lamp setup (H4?) from the Loyale, and I've seen photos of 3rd gen 3 door coupe/4 door sedans that have them. What I need though is a parts list. Planning to pick everything up to get this done since I don't like the 4 lamp setup (and even with my discount the E codes are $$$), just not sure what is needed outside of the lights and the new plugs to splice in. Are the marker lights the same between the 4 lamp setup and the 2 lamp setup? Are the rad grills the same? What other parts do I need from the donor car to make this happen?

YMMV of course. My info comes directly from Bridgestone/Firestone and their engineers, as well as other sources. Fact of the matter is, rubber drys out with age and the compound loses integrity. Coupled with the heat generated by friction while driving,.. Personally I won't run tires older than 6 years max, and try to buy as new as I possibly can (even when buying used tires, I go with this and its never failed me yet). And considering most tires are rated for 50k miles or more, and the fact that average people drive 10k to 15k miles a year, 5-6 years per set of tires (under optimum conditions) isn't really a big deal to me.

Yikes. Viva's used to be good, til they started selling them at Wal Mart (not unlike a lot of things...) As far as tires and age go, if you want to know the date, look on the sidewall for 2 boxes. One will have a 4 digit number in it (something like 1-52 for the first 2 numbers, followed by 2 digits), and the other one will be a string of numbers and/or letters. The box with 4 digits is the date code of manufacter. I.E., if its say, 3505, the tires were manufactured the 35th week of 2005. The other box next to it is the tire's serial number. When I was working in the shop, they told us that as far as tires go, anything dated more than 5 years old was considered to be a bad tire and we could not sell them. Shelf life for tires is 5 years (some resources say 6 years) If the date code is within 5 years and this happened, depending on how much tread is left you may be able to contact Goodyear and get a replacement for free or reduced cost (again, depending on the tread wear when this happened, they will most likely prorate the price of a new tire for you,) if you were the one that purchased these tires and had them installed by a shop, go back to the shop that put them on and ask them to look at the warranty paperwork for that tire. By law they must record the serial number of the tires they install on the invoice, for situations such as this (warranty claims), and to keep track in case there is a recall for faulty tires (think Firestone and the Ford Explorer recalls a number of years back).

I've been wondering this as well, however more specifically I would like to know...Has anyone done an SVX seat swap into a Gen3 car? Eventually I plan to redo the entire interior on my car and would like to go all leather, and I loved the seats in my SVX when I had it. Seeing as its built on the Legacy platform (per se) they should work, correct?

Thats exactly the same thing that is happening to me Quinny. Once I let the car sit til morning, it works fine again. But we've had negative temps (-7 and lower) recently out here and thats when I noticed it started happening.

Not to thread jack (sorry), but what options are there for trans swap? Particularly for the auto crowd with a 3at...will the 4.44 4AT swap in with stock mounts, or does it require some fab work to build new mounts/relocate existing mounts? Seems this would be a more viable option, doing an entire driveline swap rather than just an engine swap, given the limited options available...

I'm honestly not looking for competition quality, blow your eardrums, concert sound. I just want something better than the stock setup that only gets 2 radio stations and has speakers that crackle more than tin foil in a microwave. My buddy has a regular old off the shelf Pioneer cd unit that I am picking up for cheap (hopefully), and as far as speakers go I plan to use the same JVC CS-XM620 speakers that I've used in the past 3 cars (quite fond of them and they sound good enough for me, plus being old tech they are cheap per pair). If I can't get the Pioneer unit, I may just go with a 4 speaker JVC kit that includes said speakers with a head unit, and get a bluetooth adapter for my phone. I'm in no rush, but just want to make sure 6" rounds will fit in both the rear and the door. As far as running new wires, I suspect I probably will have to for the rears anyway since my car never came with them from the factory. Only thing I am really worried now is if 6" will fit in the doors, and if the mounting depth is going to be too shallow. This is one of my last projects on the list anyhow, seeing as I'd like to Dynamat the whole car to cut down on the road noise/engine noise in the cabin, and doing that will cost me a pretty penny... Again, just trying to get all my ducks in a row now so i can get parts on order

Bump, anyone have any ideas? Really don't feel like pulling the column apart any time soon just to put some white lithium grease on the pivot lol

So apparently I'm either blind or a dumbarse...Looks like I found the answer to my own question, seems there are speaker grills above the rear strut towers that I didn't know where there Although that does lead me to one more final question about this, does anyone know the mounting depth and size of the speakers I can put in there? Would I be able to get some 6" rounds or do I have to go with plate (4x6/4x10) speakers?

I suspect the wiring won't be there. Most base model cars from the 80s that I've dealt with that only came factory with 2 speakers never installed the wiring for 2 more. One more stupid noob question, where are the cutouts hidden in the 3 door coupe?

This has happened a couple times to me, both within the past week. Its been mighty cold here at night/in the mornings, and I've given coworkers rides home. So heres the problem. When I start the car, and while the car is cold I can use my turn signals once. From there it seems to freeze up or get really loose in the column and not want to stay center. The quick fix is to center it by hand and wedge a small piece of paper in the hole to keep it there. Each time its happened, shortly after i started driving again I'd get this horrible loud buzzing noise coming from what sounds like the top of the dash on the drivers side that gets louder and faster as the speed of the car goes up. If anyone remembers the game Operation as a kid, the buzzing noise sounds very similar to when you touched the edge, but much louder and obnoxious. Each time its happened, I've driven about a mile this way and stopped for a few moments, then the sound has gone away while the car is at idle (but the turn signal stalk is still "frozen" and won't hold center without a crutch) Could this be the combination switch going bad? Or perhaps the flasher module? If it were the passenger side, I'd suspect blower motor going bad, but not sure with the driver side. I do know my speedometer doesn't work properly (won't start registering speed until est. ~35 mph), could this perhaps be related to that?

Just getting all my ducks in a row here, but I have a question regarding the EA82 stereo install, specifically the addition of rear speakers in a 3rd gen DL. I found THIS write up here, which basically is what I expected as far as install goes (I've done enough stereo installs in the past in my vehicles, and they are all pretty straightforward). The stereo install isn't the biggest problem, its the speaker wiring that has me wondering. My question is this: In the writeup it says about how the GL, GL-10, RX all had rear speakers. There is no mention of the DL (in my case the 3 door coupe) having them. But, does the body have the cutouts for rear speakers somewhere hidden behind a trim panel? Mainly wondering if I will have to build boxes for them...

Double post, sorry. Please delete this thread

Good question It looked full when I checked it, but could very well be low since it was sitting so long. I also found a small puddle of coolant under the car the other morning after I had trouble getting her to idle and sat with my foot on the gas. I need to get a pressure tester and see if the heads may be leaking a bit (no coolant in the oil that I can see though, so I'm on the fence about that)

I talked to the previous owner this morning (been in contact with her since I bought the car actually), and she said they've replaced the MAF with one from a junkyard car. Doesn't rule it out necessarily, but it seems they were on the hunt for the fix to this problem well before I started. She (the car) seems like an ornery lil pain in my rump roast lol. Wouldn't ya know it, I went out this morning in 5 degree weather and had nothing but trouble getting her to run right (started up, high idled, and died as soon as the idle dropped). Drove her to work and when it came time to come home, I went out and started her up to let her warm up. Close to 20 below out, and she fires right up, idles a bit high (to be expected), then drops down and purrs like a kitten. I am so #$@!'n stumped with this its not even funny O.o

Not out of gas, still 3/4 tank in her She does high idle when I first start her, but not a terribly high idle (mostly depends on the temps, and if they are low enough I have to feather the gas pedal). The second day I got her home she didnt do it, fired right up and idled normal, then when the thermostat opened she dropped down. This was after I ran fresh gas in her and seafoam'd the engine thru the brake booster vac line. But with the past couple days the temps have dipped down something fierce (negative numbers) and I haven't been driving her (have been starting her every morning and running til she warms up) I really am suspecting the IAC is bad,

Another item to check that is often overlooked is your wheel bearings. Every Subaru I've owned seemed to lunch wheel bearings in short order (I swear they eat em for breakfast), and they all tended to shimmy shake a bit. My Legacy had wheel bearings with 1.5" of play in em on the front, and my gawd was that awful to drive above 30 mpg lol

So I got into investigating my cold idle issue a bit today. The past week she's run ok and hasn't given me any issues until the other morning when I fired her up in -10 degree weather. The info given to me prior to this lead me to believe the CTS was the cause, however I'm not so certain that is the case. Here's what happened: Went out and she fired right up, idled fine for a bit (2-3 min) then died. When she fires up she idles high then starts to hunt right before dying. I unplugged the CTS while running, the idle shot way up, then she died. upon plugging the CTS back in and starting her up, she went back to what she was doing (fire up perfect, idle for 2-3 min, start hunting for it, then die). So, I am wondering (and speculating) about the IAC valve being borked. It seems as if the CTS is functioning properly, and the plug/contacts are clean. Any ideas?

The 40 led light bars go for $450 plus shipping.