TheWanderer

Its my understanding that anything in our EA82 cars that isn't factory will stick out, and require a mounting kit to make work right (factory or aftermarket). With exception to the digital media (mech-less) aftermarket head units. If you don't mind the lack of a cd player, you could try looking into one of these. You can find them on Ebay for $30 or less usually, brand new. They will still require a mounting kit and a wiring harness, as well as some wiring for the speakers but they are short enough to fit in our dashes. The only other option I can suggest is a dash swap (not very feasible for most people, nor is it really practical just for a radio)

Got the car back from the shop today, they finished up the timing belt and water pump. Its not quite perfect as far as the timing goes, and they didn't advance the distributor timing far enough at first. Fixed the advance and she runs much better (prior to that she had a bit of a lope in the idle and would fall flat and bog down until about 15mph and 3/4 throttle). Still has a bit of a lope in the idle but has full power back. I think the timing belt itself is about half a tooth off. I'll go back in and fix it later on, but for right now I can't really afford to be without the car (they've had it for a week and I've already lost my new job because of it ) But they knocked $20 off of the price for the issue with the timing. Total came to $200 even (including the tow to the shop), $150 for the labor and $50 for the towing. The discount pretty much covered the shop supply fee for antifreeze, etc. Next on the list will be the rear brakes, The shoes are shot, almost down to bare metal and there is a lot of slack in the pedal that takes about a pump or two to pick up. From there it'll be on to the digital media head unit and front speakers being installed and 2 more falken sincera's on the front. Gotta get some cash flowing first and pay the rent for next month before I can do much of anything though

Well, the verdict is in...Driver side timing belt is snapped as I suspected. Parts are about $150 for a Gates component kit and water pump, and labor is going to run me ~$225 with new coolant and shop supplies.

I should have clarified I know they are on with all the other lights with key on engine off. Part of the self diagnostic (POST) test for all the sensors/indicator lamps. Most of the non OBD cars I've worked on (if not every non OBD car) has/had this function. What I wasn't sure of is if this is common when the timing belt goes or not. I've read elsewhere that of the passenger side goes, the car will still run, albeit in limp mode on 2 cylinders. I've also read that when the timing belt on the drivers side goes, the car pretty much just dies and wont start again (like what I am experiencing now), due to the fact that it runs the oil pump as well as the distributor, correct? I'm no expert when it comes to timing belts (or these older subarus for that matter), hence why I asked (so far I am only speculating based on the limited info I've read here on the forum). I don't do my own timing belts, I'm not comfortable setting the timing (especially on interference engines, perhaps not so much on these cars since they are non interference). Looks like it may be time to learn and invest in a timing light and extra belt set to carry in the car for roadside repairs

Correct, and I suspect that is why the CEL came on. I've never seen the CEL in this car since I bought it in February, and once I replaced the CTS and pugs/wires, she ran like a top. When the car died yesterday, it just threw an oil light and a CEL, then nothing.

I know the connectors you are talking about John And I think I saw the thread you are talking about, I remember seeing something about the green connector has to be together when setting the timing, otherwise the ECU will advance it and it won't be set right. I used to have a link to a page that showed how to read codes on all the different non OBD subarus, as well as a list of what each code meant across the different platforms. But for the life of me I have no idea where it went or what page it is any more lol I think I have something worked out as far as getting new belts (hopefully) but if all else fails I'll definitely get in touch with ya. A good used belt is better than no belt/no car at all The shop has the car in the bay now looking it over, I have to call them back in a few hours so we'll see what the verdict is.

Checking codes on these older non OBDII subarus always drove me nuts. The details have never really been quite clear to me on how to do it. I know with this car I have to connect a couple different connectors and count the flashes, but I have no clue where the connectors are, or where the light is to count flashes. Any other non OBDII vehicle I've had to check codes on, one would count the flashes on the check engine light. Is it the same with these cars? Honestly, the only non OBDII subaru I've ever had any luck checking codes on was my 92 SVX...The connectors were under the driver side kick panel next to the fuse box. Think there was a green one and a black one, and to check codes I connected the 2 black ones together (its been about 3 years since though, so perhaps I'm wrong). Would it be the same with the EA82 cars as well?

Thanks John. Definitely not how I wanted to start out with my new job, especially as adamant as they are with attendance. And since I'm going thru a temp agency, it not only reflects badly on me but on them as well :-/ I've got to figure this out and have it fixed by Monday or I'm screwed and will have no job, and all of this will have been for naught

Well, its been one of those days. Was on my way to my first full day at my new job, and the 88 EA82 DL died. Was 2 minutes away, and the CEL and oil light came on, and the engine just died. No bucking, nothing, just straight dead. Now all it does is crank and crank, with no fire. Has had new plugs and wires within the last 2000 miles, current mileage is 94,600 and 9/10 (didnt even get to that last full mile over >_> ) I have fuel spraying from the injector while cranking, so I know its not a fuel delivery problem. My question is, does this sound like a thrown driver side timing belt? From what I've read on the forum, this is the likely culprit, since the driver side belt operates the oil pump, as well as the distributor, correct? This would explain the oil light coming on, as well as the no fire if that is the case. Its currently sitting at a shop waiting to be looked at tomorrow morning. If it is the timing belt though, it won't be fixed until at least monday when the parts get here, and even then I can't afford to fix it since everything I had $ wise is wrapped up in my recent move to start work last weekend. I am leaning towards the belt(s) definitely though, seeing as everything else on this car is all original I wouldn't be surprised if the timing belts are as well...but if thats the case, I'd say they've done their job well, given they are 27 years old and almost 100k miles on a 60k mile service part What a day....lol. When it rains it certainly pours

Scored a Dual brand mechless am/fm/digital media player today to pair up with the Kenwood speakers I got from Suprjohn XM4110 is the model number, should fit in perfect with a Metra dash kit. No idea if it works or not, and not sure if I'll use it honestly, since its missing the 12 pin wiring harness that plugs into the back and wires up to the vehicle 14 pin reverse harness, as well as the DIN cage. A replacement on on fleabay is $20 and the din cage runs $12. Since I can get this unit brand new on fleabay for $35 shipped, its not really worth it to pick up the missing pieces just to try this out and see if it works...The seller has a best offer listed though, so I may be able to get everything cheaper. Who knows though, I may end up using it for now until I can get my JVC system ordered and put in. Its still cheaper and better than the stock system currently is...

Same goes for Kearney Nebraska Look me up and I'll give ya'll a couch to crash on for a night and breakfast John, looking at the pics, that wiper switch I gave ya looks to be for this generation instead of our cars...

Trade ya you give me a place to work and we can swap mine out with your 5 speed in a weekend...I'd love to have the 5 speed in my car

Wonder if this is why I have a vibration in my gear shifter and it feels like the engine is pitching forward and back when I accelerate hard...it shakes at highway speeds around 55-65 mph... Damn Subaru and their self lubricating chassis

Awesome looking GL-10! I'd trade my low miles 88 3 door for even a DL wagon in half that condition Scooner, shoot me a PM if he decides to sell anything parts wise. I'm in the market for a rear disc setup ASAP and would almost trade my left (castle) nut for one Hell, you are close enough, I'd be willing to drive out one weekend and pull it myself and put it on right there... l75eya, I was wondering the same thing. Looks kind of like an old school trip computer?

I sell those seats IIRC that is the R100. Sparco does make a seat track that fits all of their seats that is adjustable. If you have the base, I can set you up with one for $75 plus the shipping. I also carry the bases too if need be. But I would need the info on the seat tag as to model, etc to make certain. We have a universal seat base that should work, but we are also a full service Sparco dealer and can get anything you may need/want. Shoot me a PM if you are interested and I'll see what we have in stock Tuesday morning at the shop (we are out of the office until then due to the holiday weekend) Edit: Here's a link to our page with the adjustable seat tracks: http://www.rallylights.com/all/seats/accessories/sp00493-seat-track-set.html

The first items I ordered that were damaged I was ok with. I was able to fix them (albeit counteractive to the reason I ordered them in the first place, seeing as they were in better shape than what I originally had). This time though, its not possible to fix the damaged item. Theres no way to straighten out the bend in the brass probe Shame too, since its a NOS part from Subaru thats going to now run me over $100 to get another one. So now I've got a NOS paperweight... I guess on a more positive note though, i got my insurance check today. Just too bad the bank is closed and I can't go until tomorrow to cash/deposit it

Didn't do anything today, other than get my parts in the mail that I ordered. Hoping to install them Thursday morning. On another note, I'm done ordering parts from forum members... last 2 boxes I've gotten have had damaged items and no insurance Proper packaging when shipping is key here people, bubble wrap and a proper box don't really cost much more...

I'm planning on doing this on my 88 DL as well, since I don't like the sealed beam design lamps. What I've come up with (along with my wiring guy) is a plug and play relayed harness that will basically replace the need to do any rewiring or swapping over of the old harness for the 4 lamp setup (my harness is also going to have plugs built in for Hella Micro DE fog lamps too). If you are interested in going the path of least resistance, I could probably have a harness made up and shipped to ya. Shoot me a PM and lets chat about it The main benefits to going with a relayed harness is better power running to the lights, as well as the option to use higher wattage bulbs (which I plan to do, using 85w/80w Osram Hyper bulbs instead of stock 55w/50w bulbs) . 25+ year old wiring thats been through hell and back, while probably being able to handle higher wattage (although not recommended and certainly not for long if you went that route) just isn't up to snuff for my tastes EDIT: By better power going to the lights, I mean cleaner (less resistance due to old wiring) power. Another option to consider if you can't get this setup to work is a set of 165mm H4 housings. Check out our shop website. www.rallylights.com (shameless self promotion lol)

Insurance company called yesterday. Claim was approved for the full amount of $1353.58 in damage. No fighting, no lowballing, nothing. Check is in the mail, and they aren't even trying to total loss the vehicle, so I still have a clean title and a big ole check to pay for other repairs I'll fix the dent in the quarter panel myself when I am ready to repaint the car Todays task is alignment and 2 new tires on the rear. Time to get my Falkens installed finally, with 2 more to come next week after I get moved out and into my new place in Kearney. After that its time to install the rest of the parts I'm picking up from other members (shift solenoid, EGT sender/sensor, NOS subaru O2 sensor, etc) and on to brake work and a new right front cv axle (I suspect the inner stub is causing problems, it clicks on low speed turns/take off, then stops as I start moving over 5 mph).

Just got back from the auto body shops. Car is a total loss most likely, due to the fact that repairs are going to cost more than 75% of the cars value. Grand total to repair the panel is $1353.58. 18+ hours for labor at $55 an hour plus cost of paint, etc.

Not much is done for me lately. Installed the new tail lights last Thursday, made a huge difference. As far as what I get to do today, I have to go to the different body shops around town and get estimates on what its going to take to fix the giant dent in the drivers quarter panel that my co worker put there last night and didnt tell me about (until after I filed a police report for a hit and run and they showed up at her door). Dent goes about 3.5" deep at its worst and creased the top of the panel right below the seam/rounded edge near the hatch. may have knocked my hatch alignment out too, its sitting about 1/8-3/16" below the panels when closed. I estimate about $600-$800 worth of damage, mostly labor and paint/blending. Its creased right at the tail light as well. But at least she didnt hit the new light I just installed

Understood If ya get a free moment and want to get away to blow off some steam between tests feel free to stop over I'll show ya the new tail lights I slapped in today. Much better than the old ones Best of luck with the testing, I'm sure you'll do great my friend

Right on I'll offer up that wiper switch in trade if you are interested. Would rather see someone use it than let it sit and collect dust lol. As far as the speakers go, anything has to be better than what I currently have I'll throw a 9v battery on the terminals to see if they crackle (if so, they should work). if not no worries. Nothing ventured, nothing gained Lets get together tomorrow afternoon if you are in town and I'll take a look at em to see what I can do. You can have a look at that wiper switch as well and see if you can use it. Give me a call or shoot me a text and we can make a plan

If ya want to get rid of those old Kenwood speakers, let me know I'm in need of something, anything right now just so I can hear my radio. The stock paper cone speakers are so static-y/crackly that I can't turn the volume up past 1/3 of the way. Fine for around town driving, but impossible for the highway. They'd basically be a fill in until I can get my JVC bluetooth head unit and CS-XM 620 speakers. Perhaps a trade is in order?

Hmm...your center plate is different than my car then. The extra opening on mine has a cubby hole below the radio... Looks good overall brother :-D Let me know if ya want some help with the wiring, I'd be glad to stop out and work with ya a bit. Would give me an idea of what I can expect when I replace my stereo in the near future. Are you updating the speakers too?