grimaceNMike

The "new" one died last night. Even more shortages and smoke then the last one!! I replaced it with an OEM from the dealership for $65. i hope this one lasts till 2035 at least as I am tired of that job

Good morning! I turned the key in my ignition to the "on" position a couple days ago and my car started up fine but after about 3 seconds smoke started coming out from behind my steering wheel, i quickly turned the car off and the smoke stopped coming out. I ripped all the plastics off and found that my ignition switch was the culprit. After removing the switch i saw a piece of solder that had fallen off the connection and bridged two connections causing the short. The short was hot enough to melt the wires around the switch and ruin it so I went out and bought a new one. Being a student i have very little money or time to wait for OEM parts to arrive from the stealership. I bought an aftermarket part for $23. My problem with the aftermarket part is that the rear connections didn't align with the ignition barrel as you can see from the photo, both of these switches were in the same "on" position but they have different alignments on the back.. So the screw mounting hole didn't line up with the the part. I had to use zip ties and JB weld to get the new part into its home. Very frustrating. I am posting this so people can learn something important about crap aftermarket parts. -Mike

A couple years ago my car-starting process began having problems, when I turn the key to start the pinion would enter the ring gear area and I would hear the "click" but the starter wouldn't spin the flywheel. I turned the key multiple times and eventually the car turned over. I tried a couple times getting a jump start thinking it was my battery, and ended up buying a new battery just in case but that never solved the problem. The starting problem continued sporadically for a few weeks till I decided to replace my starter, as hitting it with a rubber mallet seemed to solve my problem. I brought in my "dead" starter in for testing and they could not find any issues with it, but I bought a rebuilt one anyways, I had no issues for a couple weeks after installation but the problem did come back soon. Since the installation 2 years ago, around every 10th time I've gone to start my car I have had to get out and whack my starter with a rubber mallet. Annoying, yes but I have learned to live with it. Recently I have had the pinion remain against the ring gear after I release the key and the engine is running, I have to get out and whack the starter with the mallet to release the Pinion from the ring gear(terrible sound). Has anyone had a similar problem?? Is this an issue with my ring gear teeth? Or could it be as simple as torque specs on the starter bolts?? I feel hitting the starter with a rubber mallet might be jarring it from its optimal position, but what started the issue in the first place?? I have also tried jiggling the two starter wires each time in hopes that it is that, but that never helps. Thanks! Mike

My 93 legacy has a squeaky brake pedal every couple weeks as well. I don't understand why it happens or why the noise goes away, its almost like the temperature of the plastics or rubbers in the pedal varies and makes it squeak from time to time. I used to think it was gonna snap, but so far it has held.

This morning I got into a drag race with a Jeep, this race has been weeks in the making.. The jeep driver uses the bus lane to cut in front of the line. We never went over 40mph but it was more a 0-40 race from an intersection. I don't push my car hard and today I felt it necessary to beat this guy. I've not seen my tachometer reach 5000 rpms because I have an automatic and the car shifts when it wants to, but today it revved all the way up to 5500 rpms while in 2nd gear. As soon as I took my foot off the accelerator the engine stalled out at 40mph. All my dash lights came on and I pulled to the side of the road. Once pulled over I restarted the engine and it hiccupped and died. Tried again, it ran rough for a few moments and now is running fine again. My question is: what did I do to my car? Lol. why did it stall after being pushed hard? New fuel pump within the last 10 months and a full fuel tank. Thanks! Mike

How did you remove your maf? If you try to remove it buy taking the 4 small screw's out and pulling on it you can break something.

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/ Find the car you want. Find the wire color and trace it back I bought a separate cb for $5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PTBVL2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Zw-Bvb1Q1NRRD

The new seats added 51.8 lbs to my cars weight. The Drivers seat alone went from 42 lbs to 60lbs. But i am very happy with the comfort and the heated seats

I found a cream interior from my generation at the junkyard and got some accent pieces to spice things up a little.

a few photos from my adventure

I stuck some heated power seats in my 93 legacy from a 2001 outback. The fronts fit okay, the back seats i had to drill new mounting holes for the back rests. The Drivers seat sits about an inch further to the left than my stock seat did, so my seat belt has a hard time retracting on its own. But i have auto seat belts so that might not be an issue if you have normal seat belts. I did have to switch out the seat belt connector on the seats, but that was easy.

subaru nut- how is your transmission fluid level?? Have you checked it while the engine is running?

I put in the fuse and the binding while turning went away, my car seemed to use the engines power better and it felt normal through turns again. After about 40 miles of driving i took it on a freeway on-ramp and accelerated to 65mph at a delicate pace, but my car wouldn't shift from 3rd to 4th, the RPMS were around 5500 so I let off the accelerator and thought it would shift up, but it didn't. I pulled over and pulled the FWD fuse out and the car had no issues with shifting to 4th anymore. i have not put the fuse back in since. I read in one of my repair manuals that you shouldn't drive long distances or fast speeds with the FWD fuse in, for safety reasons. Are they talking "4wd safety" or transmission lockup crash safety??

My car has been binding on slow turns and getting worse then usual gas mileage, the power light flashed this morning so checked it and it came up bad duty c solenoid. I know I need to change it soon. But in the meantime can I drive the car without damaging it? Does putting the FWD fuse in make it okay to drive on the freeway? Thank you 93 legacy ej22 automatic 266,686 miles

That is so lame. I'm just gonna order an aftermarket one instead, At least I got some practice on how high I can lift the engine/transmission on a junk car. Those screw's are going to be a turd to get back in..

I am at the junkyard right now and there's four candidates here that I could use but one of them has a big dent in it and the other three have this extra plug.(see photo) I don't understand what the plug is for. Does anyone know what it is?

There are three candidates at the local pick n pull I'm going to check out this Thursday. I didn't luck out the last couple times I went though. Thanks for the replies!

My oil pan looks like it has endured a few rally races and needs to be replaced. I was planning to get one from the junkyard, but I have been twice and haven't found one in pristine condition. The stealership wants way too much for a new one, so I looked online... I figured it has no moving parts so what could be the risk of getting a non OEM pan? Anyone have any input on this matter?? Thanks!

I found this connector that i believe goes to the airbag suspension system in some the high end models, my car wasn't using it and it has ACC power only, so i used a splice connector to get my 20a fuse connected for my Heated seat power

The wire mess

The seats

I found some great power/heated leather seats at a junkyard that were in a 2002 outback. I removed all the wires that were hooked up to the seats and the heater switches. Fitting the rear bench seat into the back of my 93 legacy was challenging but I finally got them in. The front seats were a direct fit, bolt wise, but I do not have any power going to my original seat area. I was wondering what I can tie into to get power and what kind of fuse or wiring apparatus to use. I have the wiring diagrams for both cars but I was hoping experienced people could give me some input

My 93 had this issue with the rear hatch handle too. I sprayed silicon lubricant in it and it didn't help much.. a few weeks later My car was stolen, and they needed to pop the trunk to get the sound system out. I guess they know Subaru's pretty well cause they fixed it somehow! All my stuff was stolen, but my rear hatch handle works well now

A little mighty car mods motivation going on here!?

That's what I'm afraid of doing! I practiced at the junkyard and I couldn't get it out of the block without breaking it.. Can I just get a bottle brush and some seafoam and go to town on it? Then do an oil change immediately? Or would the chunks remain in the crankcase?