rallyruss
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Posts posted by rallyruss
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I havent been able to find squat for front shocks on my RX, not even replacement shocks
OEM, maybe. It makes my decision to go 5 lug even more so now.
But the RX will be getting retired from its short RallyX career soon.
My Imp will be up and running in a few weeks:headbang:
Yeah I will most likely swap in some KYB GR2s for the regular EA82s to get thru the season.
Sucks. I may have to dump some money into custom struts. I have seen it done before on a stage rally car before.
My RX is strictly A Rally X vehicle. Its not street legal.
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I have a set of GAB rally struts on the front of my rally cross beast. Looking for any decent replacement or if someone knows where to get a couple GAB units. I know they are no longer produced.
any help would be appreciated.
The car is in the top three in Rally preped 4wd so far this season and I would like to keep it that way.
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there is an O ring and a seal.
you need to mark the location of the retainer and then spin it out(can be tricky) then replace and lube o ring and seal AFTER removing retainer. seals cannot be changed with out pulling the retainer out. axle has to be removed obviously.
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Its not going to leak!!!! I dont know why you guys keep saying this.................. i do know that I am going to get my stuff from BAP from now on... i just got a Bosch Fuel Filter and Header Gaskets!!!! and they had them come from there warehouse to the location next to me in less then 3hours..... Thats service!!!!!!!!!!
K&N oil filters are overpriced and did some one mention OVERKILL!!!! there stupid! and they should stick to making airfilters thats what there good at!
Chase relax man.
you did admit to using a fram so you should expect some flack from those of us that have been in the business since before you were born. they do leak from time to time. they also have been known to cause complete engine failures when they fall apart internally. these are not just "old mechanic" stories passed down but things I and other mechanics I know have seen personally over the years.
now dont take offence. I know that you are a sharp guy and are learning tons every day. just rember im just like you but with 15 more years of real world automotive experience. its what ive done since before I was your age. the old saying "when you get to be my age you will understand" applies here.
this is a forum and things posted need to be viewed carefully. some bits of info are excelent but they can be hard to distinguish from the BS at times. dont get all excited and try to set the record "straight". it just leads to little battles and makes you frustrated.
now go fix your car and tell us how it runs and what you did. thats the good stuff around here. have fun.
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Nah.. Collapsable filters save space
yeah and its got that grippy stuff so when the crimp starts leaking all over you can still get the filter off by hand.
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fram!!!!???
your asking for trouble.
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address the GIGANTIC exhaust leak first(check the up pipe gaskets. They blew out multiple times on me).
I doubt the WG is stuck open unless the actuator got damaged somehow. the exhaust just takes the path of least resistance.
also make sure you dont actually have a GIGANTIC Boost leak. what did you remove and reinstall when you did all that work on the car? I would look there as well. all that TD04 turbo and intercooler plumbing is far from factory quality. It was put together by some guy in his garage on a budjet(me). Therefore it does not have the fit and finish of a factory system so you need to be carefull with it and inspect it often.
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I dont have the cash flow to do anything about it right now... im going to let it self regulate for now... until i get a more reliable boost controller.... Preferebly with fuzzy logic.. and... GAUGES... i know that the Boost gauge in there is accurate... but its not fast enough... heres an example... im roll in to it and the fuel cuts way before the boost guage even reads .65... so its not responding fast enough... ill just buy a pyrometer and an air-fuel ratio lightshow and... and the thigy that piggybacks on the MAF throttle position thinggy mo bober or something like that... and then once i know how this thing reacts... ill reboost it... I know the pistons are not forged... im thinking of having someone make some for me.... because if my calculations (tee hee) are correct... then with good quality forged pistons... i could safely push the boost up to 14-18 lbs on pump gas!!! But thats down the road... for now i got my blueroo back and im happy that it runs good!!! since it did break... I dont want that to happon again.... or if Jonathan gives me his Rs engine... yeah right.............................................................................................
Oh yeah... i am waxing it today... YAY its my first time doing this... but so far its looking really good... and no.. its not in the sunlight baking on to it as i type this!!!
I had a quote on custom forged JE pistons and head studs a long time ago. it ran close to the 1800.00 mark if I rember correctly. thats not counting all the extras that go along with all that. I did not have the funds or the justification at that time. the heads are somewhat limited in creating big HP numbers as well and would ned work.
you think you are hitting fuel cut at .65 Bar? is that sustained full throttle? I never really had a problem running close to that boost level with that car. you may have some other problem. possibly an ignition misfire under hard load(weak coil or bad secondary system) or if its running lean/overadvanced and knock retarding.
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you can sell it for "parts use only" as far as I know.
so the light is on but you cannot pull a code? that makes no sense. but hey you have looked at it not me. its probably somthing simple like the egr sol.
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easy Chase. your going to dump a ton of cash into my baby then blow it up.:-\
leave the injectors alone. leave the fuel system alone. 9-10 psi boost is all you need. those pistons are NOT forged.
getting around the fuel cut is a pain in the rear and has its hazzards.
dont get all buck wild on it.
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sweet. looks like fun.
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Hi Guys.i want to intercool my ea82 as well.i don't see anyone mention about the small water hose(the one from top of the thermo housing) goes to the intake metal pipe?can i just cap it off?thanks.
no.
its not a coolant hose its part of the idle air control circit. you will need it unless you just want to crank up the idle. I would keep it if I were you.
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I have worked on three completely different intercooler set ups on EA82Ts. yeah you need to know how to do some fab work or pay someone to help you out if you cannot do it yourself.
I highly recomend intercooling espically when done right.
beataru has one of my intercooler instalations in his wagon(was mine). just as he stated I used some pcv pipe to set it up and then redid it with mandrel bent steel and silicone connections. I think I probably spent 500$ and a ton of time getting it all to work on that car. the other two set ups were more affordable mostly because the turbos were stock rather than a TD04.
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its possible. I have done quite a few alignment in my garage and usually get really close. I use tape measures and a specially calibrated eyeball.
oh yeah and I usually try to figure out why the car needs to be straightened out first unlike many alignment shops. that will get to the root of the problem.
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do NOT try this. I personally have seen what diesel does to gas motors. only one gallon is enough to make it run like crap or not at all. I have seen it at work mutiple time and accidentally added some contaminated(diesel) fuel to my truck once. they smoke and run like crap. pinging is actually worse than normal and performance (if it still runs) is terrible.
tell new guy to try it on his car first.
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Beataru I thought I told you about that? I already diagnosed it and yes it needs a resistor. the low speed coil is burnt out. yeah I made a feeble attempt to solder it. really pointless. dont bother. order a new one.
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http://www.superpro.com.au/home.html
you will need to measure the sway bar to get the corect ones.
shipping might hurt too unless you find a local source.
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the ones on the car are made by superpro if I rember correct. I belive they came from down under (AU). WJM was in the business of distributing some at one point. He may know where to find more. they were reasonably priced in conparison to stock bushings at the time.
you may just want to get the factory ones. they are probably simpler to find.
as for the shift bushings the oem ones are the only option that I know of.
good luck. glad it has a happy new home.
ah yes.. poly bushings are usually considered a performance upgrade as they handle better and last longer than most factory parts when made properly. they do tend to make the ride a little bit harsher though for those who care.
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this an interesting fix/mod.
I fully understand the theory and aplication but have a few concernes.
most turbos will pass some oil. so if you had the PCV system isolated you still will get some oil on the maf element over time. that of course leads to a lean condition.
lean bad. possible motor damage.
secondly the subaru maf Is a hot wire maf and uses the air charge temp to adjust mixture slightly. running after the turbo will cause it to assume its sucking down warm air all the time ( well big ol cone air filters do that too ) but its somthing to keep in mind as it will throw the system off slightly.
I fit in the bypass valve camp.
I have run multiple bypass setups with great sucess and no drawbacks. yeah the noise does not attract the attention of many bystanders but it is verry functional.
and really.. I draw enough attention just by driving strange cars. no need to ask for more.
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all three of the most common probelms have been mentioned in this thread.
if you dont know how to propery diagnose then you will end up "shotguning" parts at it untill its fixed. That can get rather costly.
A code P0420 is quite often a bad cat. the cat monitor is rather acurate.
It can also be triggered by strange driving conditions, one of the o2 sensors failing (usually the rear) or an exhaust leak.
In california the emissions waranty has to covers parts like the cat for 100K miles or 10 years. I dont know if other states are the same.
If the cat did fail It would be wise to determine why. does the car have a fuel/spark issue? or was the cat just damaged by a rock in the road?
I too have worked as a parts counterman in the past and I would like to think I helped a lot of customers fix cars. But I would trust an actual mechanic who knows how to diagnose a little bit better.
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Strange - all I've ever seen are the Hitachi units with the screw on caps. What's the "other" unit look like?
GD
there are the clip style as well. basically the same thing just using a differnt style cap. I do like Russ and bring my old part to match. the parts listings for distributor parts are worthless.
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I betcha you don't have the DP mounted to the tranny in the two spots, eh?
I did the same, and had the same result. Bolted it to the mounting points no problem since. 15k ago.
-Justin
this is true.
elimination of factory mounting points leads to things vibrating loose/breaking.
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Im not the best judge by pics alone but its hard to tell a ea81 wagon wheel (I have a bunch if you need) and ea82 apart in my opinion.
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diggin up an oldie here.
I have recieved a distributor in need or rebuilding finally thanks to a fellow board member. another Russ actually.
my camera is not workng well But I have a pic with all the parts torn down.
as you can see there is not a lot in there.
first thing- soak all the screws with penitrating oil before removing and use a GOOD screwdriver. no not the old worn out wall mart special.
to disassemble it you first remove the screws that hold the plate in place(top left on rag)
remove the plate and then there is the rotor mounting(top of the rag) the screw is in the middle. remove it.
next carefully rotate the sensor wheel untill it can be removed.
the alignment piece that is under the sensor wheel comes out next. please note that the flat edge aligns with the hole in the sensor wheel base(top right of the rag) if you get this wrong on reassembly it may be impossible to set the timing.
next remove the three longer screws holding the hall effect sensor in place along with the smaller screws holding the lower connector in the base of the distributor. disconect and remove hall effect sensor and wiring.
now you will see the bearing with two screws holding it in place. remove the screws and the washer that sits on top of the bearing.(dont forget to use good penitrating oil!!).
at this point you will need to drive the shaft out of the distributor and bearing. I like to install a spare fastener in the top of the shaft before driving it out to prevent damaging the top of the shaft.
drive out the shaft using a small hammer and driver or a small press.
they usually come off with little trouble.
flip the shaft around and test the fit in the lower bushing. it should be a fairly snug fit but not binding. this bushing is usually still ok and can be reused but check it just in case.
you now have it all torn down. clean it up and reassemble it in the reverse order. install a new bearing for sure. they really tend to wear out.
I will try to get more pics of this one going back together once the new parts get here.
Looking for rally struts EA82T RX
in Rally/Racing
Posted
None left huh? that sucks. I will check my local sources for any still on the shelf.
I would love to be set up with the 5 lug. Unfortunately the expensive rally tires I just purchased recently are for the 4 lug 13s. I also no longer have a house with shop space or my tools to do any major work. I can get it into my friends shop for minor stuff but thats about all.