suby2001
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Everything posted by suby2001
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I guess I'm just gonna junk it. Anyone needs a good tranny? -
Hi guys, I've got a 2001 Subaru legacy L sedan with automatic Tranny. Engine is gone, was driving on 1 quart of oil then the knock started and etc.. now the car starts, but dies if you'll drive more than 100 yards. I'm thinking to swop the engine. I found impreza 95' ls on craigslist, also automatic transmission. The problem is it's OBD1, is it going to matter? Is it doable or I should look for something newer? Thank you.
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Spider is an aluminium intake manifold that's on the top of your engine. So check if there any ground wires loose (outside of 1 or 2 cylinder I think)
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It's probably one of the connectors or grounds got loose, or something had happened with ECU. Even if it's ECU don't worry too much, I went on Ebay and found 2 ECU's for legacy just under 100$. You still would have to programmed it tho.
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yep, I had the same issues and I know how frustrating this is. I also went to talk to a dealership's mechanic but they have not heard anything about it. Five grounds: 1. Starter 2&3. Two ground wires right on the spider - intake manifold (I think those are grounds lol) when you facing the engine it's gonna be on you left ish side, and right side on the spider that faces you. They are going together, but two wires and two bolts. 4&5. Left and right chassis parts under the front quarter panels. The wire goes to underneath the valve covers from each side. I hope that's helpful!
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was standing in front of the engine and think what else does it needs.. and! Found two more ground connectors on the spider that were loose. Which means there's 5 ground connectors in total. Car runs great with no engine light or any other issues! Thank you guys for giving some advises
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Not sure what does the DLC means, also you guys think I should try to crank it from the starter?
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Tried to follow all the steps 3 times but nothing Er HC on and nothing else shows up. The battery is charged, key is ON and I can see all the dashboard lights, but when I plug in the scanner tool, nothing changes. When I turn the key off ( one click back) the scanner turns on but won't let me read the codes. ( link error ) feels like something blocking it from read the codes or start the engine..
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Can not check for codes, scanner is working with just a key in, but when switch is off it shuts off Just unplugged all the sensors, and cleaning them. Also, sprayed some brake cleaner on 3 ground places also for cleaning.. Now just waiting.
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battery is good, and all the fuses are good ( we checked last night ) Going to check for everything else and follow TSB, and I hope it will lead me somewhere. If there's a TSB on this problem, shouldn't the dealer fix it for free? Or I'm just mistaken?
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Subaru Legacy 2006 automatic Just did a lot of work on my Subaru, timing belt, water pump, head gaskets. Today put everything back, plugged everything back, all the wires and grounds too (rechecked). Tried to start the car but nope, On the odometer says "ER HC". (High Speed CAN communication error) Did a lot of research on it hoping to find something and so I wouldn't have to post in here, but literally nothing! No one fixed this issue yet except the dealers. Found some topics related to the ECU connectors and stuff like that, but no legit answer This is the best thing so far that I found and planning to try this tomorrow: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/n9320h/2010-07-16_222648_sub.pdf maybe somebody faced this issue before and knows how to solve it? I really hope so.. Thank you.
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thank you!
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Hi guys, got a little confused with the heater hoses after putting my engine back. Not 100% positive I put heater core hoses in the right order. 2004 Subaru legacy automatic Would like to know if there any diagrams or anything like that that shows the flow from water pump to heater core and from it to upper radiator hose. If you are facing windshield, one pipe on the driver's side and other on the passenger's side. I believe Driver's side in and passenger's side out? They connect in one spot and it looks like whatever way you'll put in it will look like it suppose to be there.. Thank you.
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I think they are all the same.. It's 1996. That's a great website you send, just not exactly sure what to look for? Also, found DIY from Autozone for SVX! http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Subaru-Coupes-Sedans-Wagons-1985-1996-Repair-Guide/STEERING/Power-Steering-Gear/_/P-0900c152800674da
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Thanks, but so far it was good. It ran great, with no knocking sound or anything like that.
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oh, I hope it's not.. and there's no way to check it, right? Maybe it's a simple thermostat or water pump failure?
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Wheew! Thank you! Not sure what to look for when you checking the rod bearings.. So you suggest to take it to the machine shop and let them do all the work on it?
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Hello everyone! Recently, got SVX to drive around for fun. So far so good, but would like to fix the power steering lines. Getting too muscular from just driving around Looked underneath and looks like one of the power steering lines is rusted and needs to be replaced, don't know which one tho, and if I will replace this one, wouldn't the other ones break also? My question is if anyone knows where to get this power steering lines? Thank you!
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Hello guys, got a vehicle with no history. Overheats after 20-25 min of driving on highway, or 10-15 in the city. Subaru Legacy Sedan 2006 Automatic Non turbo. Pulled the engine, took off the heads and found the crack in two heads in "unusual place for cracks". Was wondering what you guys think, if it's a big deal or not; repairable or fixable, can I get just the top parts? 1A: looks like a crack, don't know if it's deep or not. 1B: looks like a tiny hole, don't think it's deep, also not sure how important it is.. Also, first of all I want to do it right without spending much money (as we all are), but.. How important is it to take the heads to machine shop overall? (adjusting the valves, checking the pressure, cleaning) In my case do I have to do it, or I can just clean them up carefully, change the valve seals and good to go? I guess I would say if you can put yourself on my place, and ask other questions if there is Any suggestions would be really appreciated! Thank you!
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Finished the job, adjusted the valves, cleaned the heads at the machine shop. Runs a lot better now, but got a CEL for: P1507 No DTC Definition found P0507 Idle air Control system Revolutions Per Minute Higher than Expected Also, the gas pedal vibrating a lot pretty much all the time. RPM on parking around 1.2; on drive around 0.9 TPS sensor is good, just might need to be adjusted, and also we tried to adjust the gas pedal and cruise control cables. Any suggestions what should I do or how to properly adjust both of them? Thank you!
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Thank you for suggestions! Checking out right now, hopefully will find something. Subaru Legacy 2004 Automatic transmission
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Hi guys, just bought the driveshaft for my legacy, about to change the transmission and driveshaft. One thing is stopping me, I don't have the bolts for the driveshaft (4 at the end, and 2 supporting the middle). Tried to call autozone, but they can not look up the bolts. Any suggestions where I should look at or the sizes of the bolts? Thank you!
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Thank you, the most important thing for me was how to measure and adjust valves, but I think this will help! "Now, use your feeler gauge and measure or see what your intake and Exhaust are at. Do this by sliding the blades between the rocker and the valve stem!!"
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Oh sorry, it's auto transmission. The thing is that I was driving like this for a while just with adding some trans fluid, then my girlfriend took a car and forgot to put the fluid regulatory (every 100 miles or so) so the transmission got damaged and now it's not going higher than 2 gear, sometimes it won't go even to the 2
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Hi guys, After of numerous days spent to find the misfire I decided to open the heads and find out if the problem is coming from inside. (http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/145707-hello-subaru-lovers-question-for-you/) I took the heads to the machine shop, they are going to clean them up and check the compression. The heads overall don't look bad, valves are not bent. The head gasket on the left head was replaced, but the head looked old; the head gasket on the right was bad, but the head looked like new. Weird :/ The bad thing is that the heads were easy to take off, we are thinking they were not on the proper torque. Question is, what if they tried to mess with the valves and did not do a proper job with it, how can I adjust the valves myself? Any special tools needed? Thank you
