brus brother

Looking for a good mechanic in the Charlotte N.C. area. Helpful if also good with Volvo brakes etc..

http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=476 I think this is at least part of what you are looking for. Seek and ye shall find... use the SEARCH function!

I have a 2000 Legacy an seem to remember a recall on the PS system. Sorry but I can't remember which aspect. Check SOA or NHTSA here in USA.

I agre on the sensitivity of the later model remotes. My 2000 is fine but the 05 seems to have a configuration that seems to go off by just looking at it hard.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#code%20alarm If this link doesn't help with the remote chirping, I think I found the solution in the owner's manual. The seatbelt solution is to turn the key to the on position without starting the engine then quickly buckle and unbuckle the driver's seatbelt about 10 or 15 times within a minute and finally unbuckle. Turn key off and remove. Can't remember if I got out of the car and off of the seat sensor but give it a shot if it doesn't work the first time. Reinsert key and you should now hear only 5 or 6 beeps each time and then it stops after this initial warning. I haven't seen anything yet to indicate that this in any way interferes with any other safety mechanism on the car.

I didn't think the issue was whether to drive with or without a seatbelt. Personally, I'm not much for kissing a windshield. However, as I've said when the nagging beeping begins, "I heard you twice the first time". The original post "Up here in alaska we occasionally start up and let warm up, so as soon as I get in I get the damn beeper" caught my attention and I missed the part where he wanted to "drive to the corner store" unbelted, creating th potential to one day find himself lap dancing with a telephone pole. Correct me if I am wrong but I was lead to believe that the safety system remains intact but the warning ends after the 5 or 6 beeps once the reprogram described above is effected.

The best part of the override is that if your passenger or even a heavy package was sitting in the passenger seat without the seatbelt buckled, you'd get the beeping even if the driver was buckled in. This way no more nagging.

Yep. Turn key to on position without starting car and then buckle and unbuckle the driver side seatbelt about 15 times quickly within a minute or less. Just do it as quickly as possible. Now turn the key to the off position and remove key. Next time and each time thereafter, the chime should sound 5 times and then stop. It worked first time for me but others had touble initially. If you have problems, use the search function on this site on the topic.

Nip and Tune are on the mark. The defroster running in the rain will deposit water on the passenger floor, as would the AC, if the drain is clogged. But first, look carefully at the corner of the cowling in front of the windshield. There is a small drain hole in the recess that gets clogged. Pour some water in and see if it drains out under the car. If not, it's likely the defroster/AC drain that is plugged.

Been there, done that, bought the T-shirt. Soup is already on. Fear not Tunered et al, SOA will be fixin' it on their ticket. The dealer has sent the pressure readings and the info downloaded from the CEL and blinkin' cruise control light along with the 'puter's freeze frame data from the moment of mishap to SOA. They now await word of whether to fix it in house or await the replacement. Meanwhile the dealer tossed us the keys to a 06 Legacy loaner... (Note to self: 1. Try all those radical driving maneuvers on loaner car. 2. NEVER buy a used Timex from Nipper)

I am dubious of Tunered's scientific explanation of atmospheric conditions as being causative. I am leaning more towards Nipper's suggestion of the supernatural. Where would I be without such a wealth of wisdom to turn to in my hour of need?

2005 OB Auto tranny died today with 16,000 miles. Wife's ride just suddenly revved up and wouldn't engage 2-3rd gear. Flatbed to dealer and now await a replacement (likely remanufacture). Anyone else have a "death" in their family? Is there a trend?? (BTW I am on my THIRD tranny, all warranty but separate issues, with my 2000 Legacy GT Auto 80,000 miles)

I used Whaley Glass in New (or West) Haven. Covered under insurance, they originally did the work at Dan Perkins Subaru in Milford. When after 2 years it developed a wind noise like playing a reed instrument, I took it up to the glass shop where they resealed and all is well. They said they usually want to let the car sit for 5 or so hours after replacement to give the sealant time to mature as the air bags rely on deploying in a manner that is defelected off the glass?? and therefore need the assurance that the glass will stay in place. Don't flame me if incorrect, it's just what I was told.

Mine jumped the track and I was able to "snap" it back into the track. What happened to yours that you need to replace it?

I wonder if this would be covered under the "lifetime" warranty that applies to seatbelts and their mechanisms??

What I've done in the past when I wanted to figure out how these beasts are put together is go to your local dealership parts department and ask them to copy their schematic page for the part your interested in. Generally their is an exploded view of the area showing all the various parts and their locations. Good luck finding the noise (perhaps it has a part number and is standard on your model).

I replaced one on a 91 Legacy wagon. The part was about $15 from 1stSubaru parts.com. though I got a used one from a local board member. Pretty simple repair. Pop off the botom of the inside panel (I might have taken it off entirely), disconnect arm attached to handle. Remove two rusted bolts barely holding the handle and replace new handle and follow above in reverse order.

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html This link should help you. I have read here before where the button is difficult to find at times but it's there.

My 2000 dash was apart recently to work on the instrument cluster and I rode with the tech with the dash open and couldn't recreate the "squeaking" that had developed over time. It certainly sounded like the wirewrap was the culprit but couldn't recereate even while driving and wiggling everything in sight. Now that the dash is closed again, the sound is back. The only other thought I have is that it may be the connection where the extensions for the air ductwork that lead to the louvered vents on the dash meet the main ducts. When the dash was apart, I could see there is one on either side of center behind the radio console and with the dash apart, they were not making contact with each other. When the dash is assembled, they simply wedge together like a collar fit. I haven't investigated this yet as I am trying to determine which yoga position will allow my 6'4" frame to get under far enough to see.

Kaptain, I think the discussion was whether or not the reverse or backup lights should/must/were/could be separate from the other light cluster on the rear. I understand the confusion though for Subaruites who likely never think of going backward, just pushing onward, upward and forward! My wife has the 05 with this newer design (losing that earlier red reflector bandaid across the back) and I prefer the entire styling of the newest OB generation (except the hoodscoop on turbos), almost Lexusian but not as bulky (or pricey).

The leaking hose from the AC will also be the culprit if the same happens when the defroster is running. Run either and look for a puddle under your car in the area below the glovebox. If that's not happening then the hose is disconnected and the puddle is inside your car. The other possibility is the drain holes located at the outside corner just under the hood. Open the hood and look at the small wells at the corners just below the windshield. They get plugged with leaves and crud. If there is debris there, clean it away and pour a small amount of water into the well. It should drain out below the car. I'm not sure if this line Tees up with the line from the A/C-defroster line. After you found the leak, dry out the car, remove the floor mats and spray everything with Lysol before the mold takes over.

Was the same condition present before you changed the struts??

If you still want to use the tape deck, open it up and check inasmuch as most of them have a single rubber band belt that make them run. It will be broken and dried out. Check around for a replacement, replace and voila, outdated technology brought back to life... long live the 8 track!

OK, back to my first suggestion. Can you separate the power from the CD and the radio? It seems that would eliminate a variable. I don't have this type setup (underseat) but apparently under normal conditions, you turn on the radio and it also powers up the cd player. I don't know where the power goes first though. Unlikely they both died at the same time. It appears that the radio/cd is losing power completely when you turn the car off, akin to disconnecting the battery. Has anything been done recently to the electrical system of the car? Just musing but perhaps a transistor head on the board can say if there is a component of the audio system that retains a small current to maintain the presets and the instant on function of the radio/cd.

Is there a way of separating power from the cd and the radio? Can you power the radio independent of the cd unit?