brus brother

Park car in iffy part of town after dark. Wait a few hours and you will see how fast others can remove your hub caps, radio, battery etc.. Really, just wedge a larger screwdriver between the rim and the hubcap and pry out a lttle, move around the wheel and gradually pry a little at a time and you are done.

Gives new meaning to the Mel Gibson movie "The Road Worrier".

Hey CTGal, Did you simply add it to the gas or did you actually introduce it to the throttle body?

Possible the idle speed is set too high. BTW what was the "valve problem" that was recently fixed?

I read recently on this site that the recommended position for the donut spare is on the rear. I haven't had the time to check this information out. Probably just a fine detail but worth a look.

There is a computer flash (reprogram) for the sport shift aspect of automatic transmissions.

It should work for the passenger (er dog) side as well once you've performed the steps as descibed above. There is actually a TSB from SOA for this but it doesn't give the details on the NHTSA site. Anyway, it should work for you since I was successful and my wife says I am barely smarter than dirt.

Worked for me. Turn key to ON position. DO NOT start engine. Quickly buckle and unbuckle driver's side seatbelt 15-20 times rapidly then turn key to OFF position and remove key. The next time you start the car the chime will chime 5 times and then stop. The chime will still chime 5 times each time you start the car.

Here's a better stupid question... when you're searching frantically for something you've misplaced, someone comes up with the very helpful "Where did you see it last?" Get my gun...

Sailing a kite throught the tilting sunroof with the key attached to catch the lightning and energize the windshield wiper motor during a North American thunderstorm while sitting in uncomfortable seats all the while confident in the AWD system but envious of the Germans' Atilla the Hun ability to cross the Alps atop elephants without AWD?

Would've thought you'd bought a Kia by now.

I am as lazy if not as unskilled as the rest but would it be so difficult to incorporate a dash or console mounted switch to achieve the same thing as inserting a fuse. It would seem more user friendly than telling the average Joe or Jane that they have to start playing with fuses with images of sparks flying from 'neath the hood. Hey Commuter, maybe you could add this to your letter to the suggestion box at SOA.

OK don't get too "Sqirrelly" on the lads. As far as posting etiquette, I've never had to cover my ears from the "volume" of typing in all caps. In fact we have many a visitor here from other countries where English is a second language and so the issue should stay on topic... grease and gears if you will. Sorry I can't help you with your current request but lurk around here and you'll find that some of the gents you are sneering at right now will be of great value to your quest Subaru. Good luck with your project.

Hey Commuter, That is a damn good idea about the notice attached to the donut spare. Perhaps an idea that SOA would take under consideration. I didn't know the deal about donut preferably on rear only. Thanks for the heads up.

Grease the bumper/alignment pads where the hatch lays against the body. Make sure the small springs haven't broken. If the noise is within the door itself, loosen the interior panel (remove a few of the lower snap off clips) and feel around for anything you can "rattle" by hand. Take off the entire panel if you are sure it's coming from this area and use bits of foam to quiet the bugger wherever a piece may be jangling your nerves. If all else fails, turn up the radio.

Hey CTgal, Now that you did the Seafoam treatment, what octane are you using without getting ping?

My 2000 Legacy GT AT was replaced at 36K for delayed engagement as you describe. In fact, the tech drove it and gave the wink and nod to the service manager who ordered a reman tran on the spot. Thank you very much for 100K extended warranty, they just replaced the reman trany at 76K when it started making noises. This delayed engagment is a KNOWN ISSUE from what techs have told me. Something about a seal not holding pressure. Check the TSB with NHTSA. There may be a listing.... I think I found it. Make : SUBARU Model : LEGACY Year : 2000 Manufacturer : SUBARU OF AMERICA, INC. Service Bulletin Num : 166602 Date of Bulletin: MAR 15, 2003 NHTSA Item Number: 10001352 Component: POWER TRAIN Summary: TRANSMISSION CONTROL UNIT (TCU) CODE 45 AND ALL-WHEEL DRIVE HARSH ENGAGEMENT. *TT If this is not the same, identify your problem as "delayed engagement" and ask that they accomodate you. Unfortunately, yours failed out of warranty. See if SOA will share the cost with you the "loyal owner".

Had same problem from day 1 on my 00 Legacy GT. Supposed to run on 87 octane but gradually ran higher and higher grade to reduce ping. In my case, the pinging was under light load or uphill. Change your spark plugs if you haven't done so recently. That helped a little for me but after continued complaint to dealer (extended warranty) they pulled the timing cover at 76K miles and found that the timing was off by one tooth. The pinging is reduced but not completely absent. The dealer now suggests fuel induction cleaning. I have been using gas line cleaners regularly so I don't think this will help much. They could just as well suggest new tires! Let's see if this thread has any life or if it is just you and I who have been so "blessed".

I believe the "rock solid" 2.5 model referred to is now an interference engine which on the off chance that your timing belt or tensioner goes unexpectedly, you can basically use your engine as a lawn ornament. The old 2.2 was bulletproof and the old timing chain was flawless.

"I'm taking the trans to the transmission shop to have them give it a shot." Sometimes it takes a fresh look to see what was there all along, like the guy who complained that "I cut that board three times and it is still too short". Hope you find salvation at the tranny shop. I've been following your dilemna and dogged persistence. Let us know the outcome.

Check local junk yards for cheap solution or check out Crutchfield for upgrade.

As I recall the handle mechanism is about $15 from one of the Sube dealer discount parts houses. Two bolts and a snap on arm and you are done. Brandy new and ready to start rusting again.

Agreed. Grab the boot as close as you can get and give it a wiggle and a twist/pull and "pop" it's out. The money you save on those pliers can be better spent on one of those pine smelling things to hang from the mirror. Good luck Sparky.

Did you buy from a dealer? This model is notorious for head gasket leaks. Apparently there is a hydrocarbon sniff test that can be performed on the coolant which may be more diagnostic than looking for oil in the reservoir. The burping issue is mentioned many times on this site. Use the USMB search function in the bars at the top of the page. I hope it turns out to be as innocuous as trapped air or a blocked radiator.

My 2000GT had the transmission replaced at 35000 miles due to a delayed engagement. Seems like it was a known probelm with an inadequacy in a valve internal to the transmission. Call your local Sube dealer and ask them about delayed engagement. They are well aware of the problem. I guess you're out of the 5 year / 60K drive train warranty?!