brus brother

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1138&highlight=Ccr+engine CCR Engines Inc. has a good rep on this site for the dollar range you mentioned and you get a totally rebuilt engine for probably less than what you were quoted. You get a 36K/3 year warranty on the engine top to bottom. The above link has opinions on merit of rebuild or HG alone.

On my 90 Loyale, aside from the usual front end seal leaks, there were leaks from the valve cover gaskets and the little rubber grommets where the bolts atach the valve covers to the engines. It seems Subarus use leaking oil as somewhat crude anti-rust program. You can also earn some spare cash resealing asphalt driveways with your leaking car.

Thanks for the responses. If my reading is correct, the problem is related to either a bad knock sensor, a faulty or out of range IAT sensor or bad grammar.

SEARCH function is is the gray bar at the top of this site, next to "new posts" and "quick links". Click on Search and a window will open below. Put in your key word and it will display results. My understanding of the oil leak is that it is a rear engine seal and is unrelated to the front of the engine where timing belts would be replaced. Good luck

school parking lots... Subies.... hmmmm smart kids.

I think I made it clear that the car has behaved this way from day one, so the various treatments meant to eliminate carbon etc. wouldn't have come to play with a brand new engine. The car has new plugs and the recommended gas line additive/cleaner BG44K. It behaves well when it is very cold outside. It is noticeably worse with warmer weather and high humidity(low air pressure?). Tech feels it is something mechanical. All guesses accepted and I will report back with any findings. PS I had originally been running 91 octane but ran into other owners who had no problem with 87 octane and since I'm still under warranty, I figured that I'd let them try and figure why the runt of the litter is in my driveway.

From day one, my 2000GT pings with the approved 87 octane. It does this under mild acceleration. The tech tried hard acceleration without pinging. Now they want to pull the covers and check timing. The latest computer flash has been applied without any remedy. It doesn't seem to misbehave when very cold outside but with warming here in the northeast, it is coming back. It's still under warranty. Plugs and filter are new. Any ideas?

My 2000 has started to develop a variety of squeaks from under the dash and around the rear gate. It might be from a bushing holding something beneath the car?? I can't seem to get to the one under the dash but I think the rear gate might do with some lubricant on the rubber gasket. Any suggestions for a lubricant? Does silicone adversely affect the rubber gaskets and bushings over time?

Thanks for the suggestion but I was looking for a source that would be more specific i.e. the value of the car would be different in January than it would be the following December of the same year.

Due to a divorce settlement, I need to determine the value of a car as of a certain date, 3/01/2004 to be exact. I know that Kelley Blue Book or Edmonds will give me values based on current date but is there anywhere to research older dates?

I am told that for my 2000 and 2005, the AT filters are lifetime filters. I suppose they are not counting on the Old Gen guys carrying on with the newer models as in the past (some still driving 1978 models?) or more likely know that the cars would never last as long... it's the car's lifetime not the driver's.

I had a similar problem. I wonder if there is an auto glass industry reporting that could evaluate the incidence of Subaru replacement experiences. If you could determine the number of replacement pieces either SOA or aftermarket that were being installed yearly and compare it to other auto makers, you might find a pattern worth discussing other than "yup, me two". In the meanwhile, as I stated initially, "yup, me too."

http://www.cars101.com/subaru_legacy_archive95_97.html True enough. While there were very few front wheel drive subarus sold in 1996, it wasn't until 1997 when they went the way of the dinosaur.

So there's the rub. If you have a shop do it and a leak follows, you can take it back to them and make them fix it. But do you have the time to chase them down. At 138,000 miles I changed the fluid on my 90 Loyale by the drain plug method. I bought the car used at 68,000 miles and couldn't say if it had ever been done by the previous owner. As I recall, there was a crush washer as with the oil plug. Pretty simple job.

Ditto... check all hoses ... Now do it again.

Linda, Glad to see you're still in the game. If you click on Quailman's name in his post, you will have the option of sending him a Private Message (PM) or an e-mail. Sometimes we don't all stop by here regularly and you'll be able to more quickly determine if his notion of East of Pittsburgh is Belgium. Good luck.

There was a sizeable puddle of gas under the right rear tire. Haven't yet figured out if owner was overly "generous" in topping off the tank. Awaiting a thaw here in the northeast to get down and dirty with the bugger, the plan is to keep it about 3/4 full until then. I don't know if this early model had all them fancy codes of the newer cars. I think for the 1993, there was only code 001 - car good and 002 - car broken. Then there was the obvious Note: check for puddle oil, gas, water etc. or car on fire (refer to code 002).

2000 LegacyGT Mine were replaced at about 70,000 miles under warranty. I think they have to pull the valve covers to get to them.

Was the pipe crimped or rotted out? Where was the leak? Did you do the job yourself? What's the degree of difficulty and were there any tips to pass along?

It's been too cold to get a good look but on a 93 Legacy, there appears to be a leak coming down from the filler tube to the gas tank. The tank was filled this week and the leak proceeded for quite some time afterwards. The car may have taken a hit in its unknown past as the bracket is torn loose from the body. The leak is internal to some sort of protective shield (?) or mounting sleeve. Other than an old crimp now rusting through, does anyone have any idea about potential cause or a parts diagram of the tank and filler tube area?

I'm not sure there was an external filter on the 90 MY Loyale. I do remember that the drain plug was a bear to get out. If you don't have an impact wrench, just ooomph the sucker out of there. Use leverage (as in put a pipe over the wrench handle to get a longer lever arm). In extremely stubborn situations, I've even read where you can position the wrench with the pipe over the handle in such a way that you jack up the car, position the wrench against the ground and then lower the car. The weight of the car is used to "wrench" the item free. I've never tried this as I am concerned that if the force is transferred improperly to the ground, I might affect the earth's rotation. By the way, in replacing the plug, I believe there is a crush washer as with the oil drain plug.

Apparently you were affected by both conditions. Spray a full can of "Demon Away" into the engine compartment after changing the plug wires and the little suckers won't be around to loosen your plugs again! And no, there should not be any difference between the plugs at NAPA or SOA but next time, order your parts through one of the on-line parts departments from various Subaru dealerships who want to do volume at the same prices as they would charge a local shop.

I believe that plunger is part of the security system I asked you about earlier. The fob is the key fob (keyless entry doowidget), also related to the alarm system. It is the remote sender you should have gotten with the car. Don't worry, your "life is over" is a misstatement. Better said, your Hell has just begun.

plug wires or demonic possession or both

Is there an alarm or a security shut off for the ignition?