brus brother

Swi66, Check your other post requesting schematics. I posted links that were provided by Moderator Legacy777. Remember, the USMB search function is your friend. Good luck.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/6_Electrical_Section/ http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/6_Electrical_Section/6-3_Wiring_Diagram/ All credit goes to Legacy777 (Moderator) who scanned these last year. Use the Search Function on this board and save yourself some time. The above links will take you down the internet road to a FSM for 1999 Legacy. Probably not much different from your 98. The last link is for the Electrical System and if you download the pdf 567 it will give you your schematic. Good luck.

Please clarify. If you identify year and model, another member may get you a schematic. Did you say were getting power to the motor but there was no indication (noise) that the motor was operating when hooked to the harness? I think Cookie's suggestion would be applicable if you could hear the motor running but no action (mechanical linkage fault) from the wipers. My 2000 Legacy has a nut on the wiper arm that releases and prevents the motor from burning out if the arm is frozen or blocked in any way. The good news is that apparently you haven't burned the motor out. Sorry but I can't get you any further but a schematic would be the roadmap to your solution. You might want to post a separate request for an electrical schematic for your model and year. Good luck.

Call the dealership. Advise them of your loss of use of car, have them flatbed the car to the dealership. You might ask that they provide you a loaner and have the flatbed drop it off and pick it up with the exchange of your car. Why should you be inconvenienced in the least. If this happened away from home, I believe their warranty coverage might provide you compensation for lodging. Take the missus via taxi to a nice local lodge, celebrate Christmas and send SOA a bill. Might as well enjoy the eggnog as long as you're taking a taxi!

Yeah it works if done properly. Turn the ignition key to on but DON'T start the engine. Buckle and unbuckle the driver's belt I think 10 or 15 times quickly then turn the ignition key to OFF without starting the car. The next time you start the car, the chime will sound 5 or 6 times and disregard anyhting about the passenger seat. It worked for my 05 OBi Ltd 6 months ago and has never returned. Good riddance to the nagging chime "reminding" me of what I already know, thank you very much!

"just weld the hood shut" LOL

Opinions welcome on the merit of a sealed battery vs. the kind with the caps. Even the sealed batteries have a little hose, possibly to allow for gas expansion and release, so as to prevent KABOOM. This outlet would seemingly allow for a gradual loss of fluid by evaporation, albeit small. It seems that the type of battery where you can add distilled water and even recharge the acid if needed makes more sense or is this an attitude left over from my days on the Old Gen USMB, where everything was expected to last forever??

Hey Scooby 6...... , I recently noticed an increase whining in the 30-50 mph range that came from the trany and SOA attributed to the planetary gears. They said it was normal, all Subies have this same sound. Few days later, clicking noise from the trany forced them to replace tranny (2nd time) on my 00 Legacy GT with extended warranty. Long story short, new trany does in fact have a whine but less than the older one! I had changed the fluid on the older trany before the replacement but it didn't seem to make any difference with regards the whining sound. A retired SOA mechanic told me that there is a variance and tolerance on how loud this sound gets before SOA would be swayed into a warranty repair. In your out of warranty case, I'd wait for insanity to set in then have it repaired while you are medicated and institutionalized... they won't let you drive anyway!

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4843&highlight=seatbelt+chime This site seems to indicate that you are due for a recalibration. Not sure of method (See SOA under warranty) as a reset for the standard operation but I was able to reprogram the system to only chime 5 or 6 times when you first get in and start the car and then stop with the nagging chimes! Instructions below. http://legacygt.com/forums/search.php?searchid=67078

I follow this same routine.

Hey Colorado, I think it was you who directed me to transport brokers for a car/boat move. You could get it hauled on a "hot shot" trailer for a few hundred. PM me if you need a name as the guy I did business with will deal directly with you. He's in NC and probably wouldn't mind a trip to sunny Fla. by way of CO., Pobably the safest on the drivetrain and tires. I bet by now though the 93 is skipping its way south....

Like 99OBW said, go to an auto supply store like Autozone and they will pull the code for free with their scanner and tell you what's defective. Otherwise, you can change every part that anyone else had a problem with and still not solve your problem.

The most common wind noise is from the gussets on the doors. These are the triangular shaped pieces where the mirrors attach to the doors. Try folding the mirror in when it occurs and see if the noise goes away. Alternatively you can try taping over the interface where the rubber gaskets meet the glass at the gusset area. The fix has been posted here before and I'll try and find it if you need. Is your car auto or manual? Whiring, whining noise in my car was from the transmission which, unrelated the revs of the engine, would stay fairly consistent at various speeds. My transmission was replaed under warranty as it subsequently developed a ticking sound and now the ticking and the whiring have gone. The techs ascribed the whirring noise to the planetary gears.

I hope someone with knowledge will add to or dismiss my mutterings. It seems that a "no maintenance" battery would still have to have some vent hole so as to prevent explosion under unusual charging circumstances from creation of gasses in the process. If that is the case, eventually, there would be a loss of fluid and subsequent degeneration of the internal plates and their ability to hold a charge. I like the option of opening the top and adding distilled water and even more acid to rejuvenate the old style batteries. What then would be the limiting factor in age of batteries unless the plates completely degenerate ?

MT is starting to sound like a nightmare issue of Playboy.

http://www.thecarconnection.com/index.asp?n=178&sid=178&article=7368 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=26182 I believe this is what you are looking for... the good, the bad and the UGLY. Apparently everyone rips off... er borrows each other's work. You say Murano I say Tribeca... This site was posted last week at USMB at second link by Photo2001 so let him go to jail (Please read my signature at bottom of page).

Like Frag said, they do need to be serviced. I checked mine after 6 years and it was WAY low so I added distilled water. I guess I could use a hygrometer (?) and add some acid and get it back in the pinkl

" looks a little like the Nissan Murano"... yeah... ugly ain't it and it's already been done!

http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/tsbsearch.cfm The above FREE site is the National Highway Safety site. In addition to Safety Recalls this site lets you access Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) which are heads ups from car manufactureres to their dealerships and mechanics related to common problems. While some of these problems are innocuous, others can be a pain or at least points of negotiations if you notice them on the car you are buying. New cars have problems that are usually discovered under warranty, yours will likely not be warrantied. Check the CV boots... the list goes on... You know, unless you are a good mechanic you should take the checklist to a reputable mechanic and let him do an inspection of the car and highlighting the issues presented here. When all else fails, I generally use my great mechanical prowess and buy the white car! Good luck.

Yo... "dangerous to everyone on the road".... how about your own vapor trail and air turbulence as you pass us at 100mph!

Check the search function on this site. I remember reading something about faulty knock sensors with cracks in the casings (?). Is your sensor code related to damp weather conditions?

Update on second remanufactured auto tranny installed under extended warranty, 2000 Legacy GT. First reman. went in at 41K for reasons of delayed engagement. 28K later developed clicking noise in P and N and a whining in the 40-50mph range and SOA installed another reman. yesterday. Picked up the car and after 5 minutes CEL. Tech replaces rear O2 sensor under warranty and says they have a lot of problems with O2 sensors, front and back. BTW, I had just refilled the gas tank after near empty following full tank with 11 oz. BG44K engine treatment. Any probable cause there or just coincidence? Car now also has an odd rattle in front of passenger compartment not related to road conditions. Tech at first thought noise more electrical than mechanical possibly related to faulty DRL relay as they seem to be a problem?? news to me but bookmark for further reference. Turned on driving lights to interupt DRL but sound continued. I left the car and am still driving the loaner (a rather spritely 04 Forrester... Note to self: never buy car that has been used as a loaner). They also somehow tore the vinyl on the driver's door (**** happens) but will be replacing it too. At this rate I'll soon have to schedule appointments for maintenance on the loaner car. Any thoughts about probable cause other than the old parking switch error or demonic possession?

It's all about the the Six Ps... prior preparation prevents piss poor performance!

Just had it done on my 2000GT cuz I didn't feel like getting down and dirty that day ($18 labor). I watched the guy remove the plugs in the sequence described above and use the Penzoil gear oil I supplied in quart squeeze bottles with tapered tops that he just squeezed in until excess ran out. Turns out the rear diff takes .8 Qt. and the front Automatic diff takes 1.3 Qt. so with what was left around the gears, it was an even 2 Qts.. Note: I was watching him fill the front diff through the fill tube when my eye caught a large piece of the aluminum/cardboard cap liner swirling down into the funnel and fortunately I was able to scoop it out! As the say... it ain't rocket surgery, ya know!

The wife didn't really appreaciate my "TADA" when demonstrating the fix... Doesn't she understand that items completed on the "To Do" list are immediately transferred to the "Ta Da" column?