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Everything posted by jonathan909
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That's helpful. Can you offer a seat-of-the-pants estimate of the mileage on an engine that would begin to qualify it for the heavier oil? Aside from my just being a stingy and sloppy sumbitch who's fine with whatever 5W30 or 10W30 is cheapest on any given day, I'd be concerned about the heavier oil making very cold weather (-30C and below) starting a lot harder. One of the terrific features of these engines is that they're easy to start consistently at low temperatures without plugging in, a far cry from the Detroit iron 8s of my misspent yout.
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Based on the description and comments, I'd say "MIL SPEC my @ss" (like Ford trucks and their "military grade aluminum" - humph). But they do look a little chunkier and more robust than the usual. But yeah, most of the above suggestions cover it. There's a very short high-current path between battery and starter and not that many parts to go wrong. If it isn't the battery, it may be the starter (or just the solenoid), or a bad termination/connection between. With a fully-charged new battery, do you see any voltage drop (at the battery) when you attempt cranking? And do you see +12 at the starter's control input (from the starter relay) when you try to crank?
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Not correcting, just offering a data point. That seems awfully fussy to me. I've never had to replace a water pump in an EJ22 or 25, but it needs to be pulled in the course of removing the timing cover on the H6 3.0 . I just used whatever gasket was in the kit; I don't think either was metal, just fiber, and I always give those a coat of gasket goo (it's the only place I use that stuff routinely). The first of those two engines now has at least 5000 fresh km on it with no leaks. Much of that was in hot weather, and this morning we woke up to -30, so it's safe to say that it's getting stressed.
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A little OT here, but I should add that I pressed these into service this summer while doing the two H6 HG jobs. In both cases at least a few of the 60+ timing cover bolts (small Allen cap screws) were messed up, and after trying and failing with an assortment of internal extractors, these were the ones that worked.
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I'll vigorously second that! I have a set of the Craftsman version (red box). This is the "base set", which is five sizes in a case that holds ten. You get the other five in an "expansion set". I had the base set for years, and they were the only extractors that worked for me really consistently. Just this last summer I snagged the expansion set on ebay.
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I had one instance of severe corrosion in the connector behind the driver's kick panel in the '02 Forester. What made that particularly miserable to deal with was that it - as a US-market car (rather than Canadian) - it used a different connector housing than anything I could find up here. I've run into that "different connector between the US and Canada" thing a few times, and it's a real PITA.
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Not enough info to speculate. It may have been the pump that was acting up - intermittent, a dead spot in the motor, etc. Behaviour like this is always difficult to debug (and unnerving for the drivers). If it were me, I'd install the new pump and see how it behaves. If it does the same thing again, it probably wasn't the pump.
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We don't get those kind of cold+damp conditions here often (it's generally too dry), but I've occasionally had the problem with condensation and consistently solved it with a fresh coat. Also, do take the time to thoroughly clean wherever arcing has been noted, because it'll usually create carbon tracks that reinforce the problem.