jonathan909

Yup, it's the fat one, straight from the battery to the starter. The other one branches over to the fuse box and powers the rest of the car.

I constantly amaze myself by finding the simplest answers to the problems that seemed so complicated and bewildering.

Based on the description and comments, I'd say "MIL SPEC my @ss" (like Ford trucks and their "military grade aluminum" - humph). But they do look a little chunkier and more robust than the usual. But yeah, most of the above suggestions cover it. There's a very short high-current path between battery and starter and not that many parts to go wrong. If it isn't the battery, it may be the starter (or just the solenoid), or a bad termination/connection between. With a fully-charged new battery, do you see any voltage drop (at the battery) when you attempt cranking? And do you see +12 at the starter's control input (from the starter relay) when you try to crank?

Fwiw, I'm not picky about the oil I use in my '95-'01 cars, but have switched to Wix filters on GD's recommendation.

Isn't that the lake in Scotland with the most distilleries around it?

That doesn't scan. You're putting steel bolts into an aluminum hole. That means that it's the aluminum threads that stripped, and all the tapping in the world isn't going to replace the lost metal. So I assume you mean you put in helicoils.

Not correcting, just offering a data point. That seems awfully fussy to me. I've never had to replace a water pump in an EJ22 or 25, but it needs to be pulled in the course of removing the timing cover on the H6 3.0 . I just used whatever gasket was in the kit; I don't think either was metal, just fiber, and I always give those a coat of gasket goo (it's the only place I use that stuff routinely). The first of those two engines now has at least 5000 fresh km on it with no leaks. Much of that was in hot weather, and this morning we woke up to -30, so it's safe to say that it's getting stressed.

A little OT here, but I should add that I pressed these into service this summer while doing the two H6 HG jobs. In both cases at least a few of the 60+ timing cover bolts (small Allen cap screws) were messed up, and after trying and failing with an assortment of internal extractors, these were the ones that worked.

I'll vigorously second that! I have a set of the Craftsman version (red box). This is the "base set", which is five sizes in a case that holds ten. You get the other five in an "expansion set". I had the base set for years, and they were the only extractors that worked for me really consistently. Just this last summer I snagged the expansion set on ebay.

Please choose between not being able to see because dirt's falling in your eyes or not being able to see because the visor's fogged. Fun^2.

Lemme read you a list of my least favourite places to work, starting with "under dashboards".

I had one instance of severe corrosion in the connector behind the driver's kick panel in the '02 Forester. What made that particularly miserable to deal with was that it - as a US-market car (rather than Canadian) - it used a different connector housing than anything I could find up here. I've run into that "different connector between the US and Canada" thing a few times, and it's a real PITA.

Not enough info to speculate. It may have been the pump that was acting up - intermittent, a dead spot in the motor, etc. Behaviour like this is always difficult to debug (and unnerving for the drivers). If it were me, I'd install the new pump and see how it behaves. If it does the same thing again, it probably wasn't the pump.

We don't get those kind of cold+damp conditions here often (it's generally too dry), but I've occasionally had the problem with condensation and consistently solved it with a fresh coat. Also, do take the time to thoroughly clean wherever arcing has been noted, because it'll usually create carbon tracks that reinforce the problem.

Have you done your due diligence with dielectric grease?

No experience with US retailers; only observation is that they're one of the few things I don't buy from Rock because shipping that weight wipes out the price saving vs. local parts store (e.g. Auto Value). I do have consistently good luck with junkyard rotors, though.

For a seller, "fair pricing" is the highest price the market will bear. It's morally wrong to deny someone the right to overpay you for it.

Ed's version of that was "You could do it that way".

Buggah! Now I'm curious how it would work on something/anything older.

Well, if you're going to tip it up that far, you might as well just pour the oil out through the fill tube.

If Kelvin, I'd very impressed with the advertised flow rate.

Oooooo... I wike dat game!

File under: Nagware

As long as it's self-priming, I agree - for $17 it'd be stupid not to give it a try.

Sure, you're doing the best you can with what you have. But as long as the power control is "soft" i.e. there are still things in there powered when it's in the "off" state (vs. a "hard" power-off, which means a switch that actually disconnects the battery) and in some kind of low-power "sleep" state, it's quite capable of enabling the network interface periodically to transmit its location, etc. My point is that the OS - IOS or Android - is able to do things that you don't want it to do and you think it can't. And that behaviour tends to come and go. It'll be in there, quietly doing its dirty work without anyone noticing, then some security researcher will pick up on something odd, look into it, and blow the whistle, and then gapple (I just coined that - does it work?) will issue an update accompanied by a feigned apology, and it'll behave itself for a while, and then sometime later a new OS update will be broadcast, and...