-
Posts
810 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
24
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by jonathan909
-
GD, thanks for that - very interesting and informative. Puts the lie to what we've been told all these years about the importance of friction-modifying additives in ATF. Fwiw, Walmart's house brand Dexron VI / Mercon LV specifically mentions compatibilty with Subaru ATF and ATF HP, so if one insists on playing by the rules it isn't that hard to find after all.
-
Oh. Trademark lawyers. That sheds a whole different light on it. Ask me sometime about why Intel switched to naming (rather than numbering) their chips when the 486 made way for the Pentium... Trivia: Yup, sperm whales, in fact. And it started out as a pretty high percentage, as I recall. They had to get smarter about it when it became obvious that the whales would become extinct if the fluids weren't reformulated.
-
Key Fob
jonathan909 replied to GSL's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Have to look at the '98 schematic. Something like that draws so little power that there's little sense (from a design standpoint) in dedicating a fuse to it alone. So it's likely that it's on a fused supply rail that also powers other stuff. Better to track down and disconnect the module itself. -
Key Fob
jonathan909 replied to GSL's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Ahem... My rather extensive diversion into the world of the Alpine system revealed that as the ignition switches get old, they get noisy and the counts become NFG - that's why you can't get an old car to program itself to a fob. So (assuming this is an Alpine) I wouldn't consider the three-cycles-to-turn-off-alarm to be reliable. -
Key Fob
jonathan909 replied to GSL's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Does the '98 use the Alpine remote? The '99 does - there's one module for the door locks and another for the security. I had a '98 but never bothered to look at it. So if yours does as well, you just have to unplug the security module. They moved it around from year to year, so it's either up underneath the dash or under the parking brake lever. -
Absolutely. Nobody here thinks any less of you for asking. For my part, I too first came here with a "stupid question" that I couldn't get a straight answer to elsewhere, and I stayed because this is where I found clarity. So forget the greasy kid stuff. Get over your nerves and do it the way they tell you to do it. If you start winging it, that's when you're going to be stepping outside of established parameters and getting into trouble.
-
Well, I'll be off to the wrecker - your best dietary source of just about every car part - to get a replacement, but since I don't have the original to compare to I just want to make sure I don't waste a trip if they come in more than one length. Might be worth a call to the dealer's parts dept. to check.
-
GD: I hope I'm remembering this right - that a handful of years ago you spoke on the subject and said that you used the ARP lube. When I asked them about it, they cautioned that it was only to be used with their bolts, otherwise the reduced friction risked exceeding the tensile rating on Subaru's bolts. So you're saying that the stock bolt+Amsoil combination is a good one. I'd like that a lot. Torquing to an actual torque value instead of the torque angles would be a whole lot less PITA. [edit] As long as we're here, may I ask a couple of other questions? First, do you apply those same torque specs to both the SO and DO engines? And would it be safe to assume that a good degreasing (e.g. Brakleen) of the block holes, bolts, washers, and head-washer mating surfaces, followed by a coat of the Amsoil lube on all of the above, is appropriate?
-
Now a different question without actually going OT: I'm doing this one in the car, and these 45 degree torque specs are rather harder than the 90s specified for the older engines. I've tried using my cheap little dial torque angle indicator, but it isn't a good fit. Has anyone tried this (relative) cheapie or anything like it? I've looked at a lot of indicators that attach to ratchets, breaker bars, etc., and nothing's impressing me much. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-professional-flex-head-digital-angle-torque-wrench-56683.html
-
We get the same ones you do - they have the "Made in Indiana" stickers in the windows - modulo the required metric speedo, etc. In this case, though, your automatically reaching for the docs filed under "USDM" would appear to be a mistake. That's the set that has the radically different procedure, and without understanding why (or which engine it's intended for), I don't think it should be trusted.