AKIRA

ok, I posted that before I read your pm, sorry.

Allright, I just got back from picking up my engine and transmission. another question, how hard is it to drill out the ea82 flywheel holes yourself? does it center itself?

another question, who makes the adaptor kits? i have messaged 88hatchmonster, and mudrat79 about their kits. i read that "aa" makes the kit as well, but there is no user listed that has that name.

ok, my brat has 2 fans on the radiator already. I will buy the ej radiator and fit it to my brat if it runs into problems with cooling.

thanks for the help. sorry, I can't afford the $200 for your harness. I will do it myself with kennedy engineerings paper. anyone else know about the radiator?

its going to get put into a brat I found a subaru dealership that is willing to give me what I want for a reasonable price, now i have to make a list of what I want from the legacy. i know I need the wiring harness, engine computer, y-pipe and engine, but thats where I run into a block, all I can think of saying engine and underhood parts-wise is "the engine with everything on it and everything nessiciary to make it run" is there a better way to say it? also: has anyone used the stock ea81 radiator? is it adaquate for the ej22 engine?

my dads car (a 98 subaru outback) started overheating, and after a few things I daignosed it as a bad headgasget. so in the process of replacing one (I am going to do the other too) I have messed up the cam positions. I believed I had it figured it out, there is a mark on the front pulley (the one on the gear it hooks to) lines up with the other mark so that it is pointing straight up, and the the single lines on the cam gears match the marks on the back of its cover, the doubble lines meet each other between the gears. the problem is when the mark on the pulley if pointing up the number one piston (front passenger side one) it not a top dead center, when I put the piston to tdc, the mark is about 90 degrees to the passenger side. what have I gotten wrong?

its a 1998 subaru outback, automatic. the problem is that it is hesitant to downshift into first gear, and sometimes when it does downshift it makes a loud, high pitched noise. can anyone tell me what might be wrong?

what are the symptoms of an intermittant open? other than blowing out alts?

nope, the one that has the high, fluctuating output is the one out of my loyale. the one that doesn't charge properly is the new one. I bought it the 25th and it failed already. the one in it, which is the one that works fine, is what I had in it when I started to have this problem this time. I had replaced the origonal one a year ago when I had this problem before. replacing it fixed the problem that time. I am going to try to take the new alt. back for a working one on monday. I didn't think I could have damaged them

I got it back together, I put the other other alternator in it and it works fine now, no fluctuation, output is at about 14.5 volts. so I have one alt. doesn't charge, one with a messed up regulator and one that works fine, the one that was origonally on it. so having those two on there damaged them somehow? the one was brand new, and the other worked fine before I put them on.

thanks again, I am going to start putting it back together now.

I put one of the alternators in, and it now works normally EXCEPT: the voltage fluctuates rapidly while it is running, and I can see the lights dim a small amount in tune. it goes from about 14.8 to 15.2 volts. nothing too bad, but I am not sure if it did it before this thanks for all of your help here

yes it was 11.2 or so before. ------------------------------- from your last post, here it is lots of stuff but the main things: L lead to ground: 7.03 Volts alt output : 13.83 Volts Crap, I just bought that alt. also, the voltage guage shows in the white (alittle over 12), but the charge light is still on. anyway here are the rest: alt output - 13.83V and the light is on with this reading diode is about .555V each way, but the actual test says "ol" one way and .491 the other (and I can isolate this diode by taking the charge light out) the drop from the fuse to L lead is 53.6 milivolts both the 10A fuse and L lead shows 7.03 V to ground all tests were done at ~2,000 rpm i am going to hoovers junk yard to pick up a guage cluster and an alt. I had two other alts in this thing, are they all bad now?

your right, it used to be lower when the enigne was running. I'll have to wait on the tests until my dad gets back, I can't work the meter and hold the gas down at the same time -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If the problem is in the alternator it may have happened when your dad was probing around and the alternator worked briefly. Possibly some of the exciter diodes failed. That would explain some of this but it wouldn't explain why you have the proper voltage now, if that is the case. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- yeah, on that, I was reading the meter and holding the common on the neg bat terminal, I told him to touch the probe on each of the fuses, so I could read the vdrop on it. he put it on the 20A fuse at the end and it suddenly worked for a few seconds, he said he looked up and the lights weren't lit up. like I said before, we were unable to reproduce this. also, very early on, he and I was able to make the "wrong" lights dim by shaking the wiring. but it quit doing that, now no amount of shaking will affect it. the output voltage on it changed later, because i remember it had went back to under 12V after that little fluke I am not sure if that happened on the current alternator though.

Engine running: 13.6 volts before the light 6.6 volts after the light engine on: 11.66 before 2.9 after the light is on while the engine is running. the light does go out when I remove the plug, but it can't be the alt. I replaced it with a new one after this problem occoured. we are going in circles here.

I think I found it, I read the voltage before the light, 11.6V. after, 3.2V. yet the resistance from the bw wire prong to the light side of the diode is only 10.4 ohms, with about 6 being from the light fillament. I switched the light and its backing plug with the fuel one, it made no difference, so its not the bulb or its plug. the place where it plugs in doesn't look any different from the others any ideas?

----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Your last statement says that the 15 amp fuse has a black wire tied to it. This wire is the side of the fuse that should should supply power to the fuse, correct? If so, you need to see why power is not getting to that wire. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- but power is, it has got the 12 volts all the way up to the end of the bw wire, I just haven't tested the vd past it because of the dificulty of reaching a probe back behind the cluster while it is plugged in, so it has to be from the end of the bw wire to the end of the brown wire I'll try to fit a probe back there and measure the vd of the other stuff in the line I attached a drawing of the part of my circut, with color labels

yeah, the regular diode test function says its ok. -------------------------------------------------------------------------- "If I remember correctly, the brown wire coming from the alternator ties to the 10 amp fuse, through the fuse the wire turns black and that then ties to the light and the diode. Is that correct? Also, what color wire ties to the anode of the diode? It is that wire that needs to be tracked for a problem of what is blocking the voltage." -------------------------------------------------------------------------- no, the wr wire goes from the alt to the 10A fuse, becomes brown and goes to the instrument cluster circut board. a path on the board the brown plugs into goes to the diode, then to the light, then to the other plugin which is where the bw wire plugs in and goes to the 15A fuse, which the black wire then hooks to there is no wire going to or from the diode, just a path on the circut board, and I checked both, they show a normal resistance - I traced the whole path, it seems good. and there is voltage getting to the wr wire, 2v with it on, 7v with it running and I forgot, is the andoe the positive or neg side?

ok I traced the circut through the instrument cluster board: the bw wire from the fuse to the the plug is good the line to diode is good the diode is good??? (more later) the line to charge light is good the light is good the line from the light to the other plug is good the brown wire from plug to the fuse is good from the test I did with my multimeter, it said the diode is good, but it has over 5.1 Mega-ohms of resistance, and measuring from the post the brown wire hooks onto to the post the bw wire hooks onto it reads a resistance that is almost the same (~5.1 Mega-ohms). If i measure it the other way it reads "OL" because of the diode.

I took the cluster out: the brown wire is good the circut board strip is good to the diode the diode is good the strip to the light is good the light is good thats as far as I got, its getting late here. but I tested the other diodes, one of them is bad, it gives about 32 milliamps eachway, but it is not the one in series with the alt wire path. do you think this is the problem? I will be tracing more tomorrow

"When you jumper the 10 amp fuse to a hot fuse does the light turn off as it should?" yes the charge light (and the other "wrong" ones) turn off. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- could it be the diode in series with the light? now this might be because I didn't test it directly on each end of the diode, but at the wires to it in the fuse box. my multimeter has a diode tester, the manual says it should have a .4v - .7v, and the oppisite way should have "OL" (shorted devices will indicate near 0v. shorted devices will indicate near 0v and an open device will indicate "OL" in both polarities.) - direct quote from manual. my diode shows .597v one way, and .352v the other way, when it should have a reading only one way any tips on taking the instrument cluster out?

the charging lamp is lit up, it is the one to the left of the voltmeter. it is working. the 10A fuse (#12) is getting 2 volts when the car is on, abut 7 when the car is running. you said this wire is being backfed from the alt., maybe that is why the light is on, its running off of the 2-7volts being backfed?

sorry about the slow moving here, I got back from mass. yesterday, hadn't slept in 26 hrs. I am not sure which one the 13 fuse is, the black wire hooks to four fuses, two of which are back\white, but going from the black wire at the fuses to the wr wire at the 10A fuse I get 1.642K ohms, the resistiance of the bulb so the connection between those should be good

I am back. what is the "L" lead on the alt. ? the White/Red wire? I meant the dash lights, sorry