xdeadeye1

Is there a body panel to cut out and weld in? Or is this a total re fabrication out of whatever metal?

I replaced my emergency brake shoes in the rear, along with all the hardware, but I still don't have e brake, the cable is adjusted all the way out at the handle. I guess my cables are stretched. There is one short cable from the handle, that quickly changes to 2 cables. Any fix for this? Or is this a full on cable replacement?

Saw an ad for a 2001 forester with an issue. I don't know if this is a common thing. Hard fix? it says it's automatic, drive train is all good. Driver side Rear strut tower is bad. Rear tire is leaning. Is this common? Is there a kit? I'm guessing it's rusted bad. Salt on roads. Any help is appreciated. Yes I know you could tell me more with a picture, I haven't seen it first hand myself yet. I'm just gauging whether its worth it. 133k miles, Asking $700

well it was doing this noise/ feel,, while I was on the gas.. then I let off and it doesn't do it. concrete spacers ,, I mean when you go over a concrete road that has expansion joints, you can feel them / hear it. its a small thump and its not consistent. I can go miles and it doesn't happen. Most of the time its when I accelerate,, and moreso when on an uphill grade. "I don't have a slow down or deceleration" meaning when it happens the car doesn't slow down. or speed up. I don't hear a transmission spinning with no movement. Its just a "wump" in the rear of the car that feels like someone took a fist and banged on my rear quarter.

Hi guys. 96 legacy wagon 2.2 automatic. Recently noticed what sounds like a noise from the rear end or the drive shaft. Accelerating,, going up an incline usually,, but not always. I hear/feel what feels like going over concrete spacers,... a fump... if you will sometimes in succession. / not like a machine gun,, spaced out feels like something slips and then catches.. I don't have a slow down or deceleration,, and I'm 90 % sure its not a tranny slipping. Idk what it is. to me it feels like its coming from the rear.

i mi messaged the guy and told him i was quite a ways away but would like to see the car. I asked if he would get the codes at auto zone and let me know what they are, before i drove down there.. (its 6 hrs away) He said " thats why its cheap, not messing with it no more" idk for 1350 or a lil less,, the car is probably worth it right? I dont have inspections here so if light is on no biggie.

Rough running when cold could be a lot of things, fuel temp sensor is not one of them. Anything from a minor MAF leak to old spark plugs to a bad head gasket. But this should throw another code shouldnt it? I agree with everything you said.

pics at bottom of page 2 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/149417-harmonic-balancer-quit-spinning/page-2 i think i used a 7mm tap. Bolts that work are hard to find at 7mm though. seriously this was on 96 legacy 2.2

I spoke with the seller. He said there is a CEL on . He said he cant get it inspected with that light on. He hasnt been able to clear it. He didnt tell me the p code, he said it was a fuel temperature code. After reading a bit i found some others who had this code, but im not sure what exactly it entails. The Seller said he replaced the fuel pump (i believe this is where the fuel temp sensor resides). But it didnt clear the code. This could be a cause of the poor running at start up, but im thinking its probably a combination of that and the coolant temp sensor. After reading around these forums i thought maybe the computer was replaced and it didnt have the same computer as the original. (thus causing this fuel temp sensor problem. I asked if the engine was ever out of the car, he said he didnt know. Anyway its a nice rust free vehicle. I was thinking of getting it. 150k miles on it. Im listening to your advice.

I know you know better than me gary... but I only see one harness that plugs into the main down by the passenger rear tail light.. so I could fish those plugs up through the rear pillar and disconnect the thing.

i found this diagram online, if im reading it right there is no plug near the hinges.. i would have to unplug all connectors and then fish it up through the hole in the top,, then fish them back down inside the new lift gate. if im reading this correctly http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1996_Legacy22L-AT-4WDBase-Wagon/_52016_6023053/CORD-REAR/B11-815-02.html

I should have taken the blue pill.

I have a hanes manual,, but I found nothing in there.

infinite sadness

I saw the ribbed rubber shroud, I pulled each end of the rubber thing off,, but didn't see a plug. I didn't PULL on the wires. I just wasn't sure if it was up in there,, at the top..,, or if there was a plug somewhere else like down at the tail lights that I would then have to pull up through the rear posts. It would make sense to put a plug at the top at the rubber shroud,, I just didn't see any.

Hi guys, 1996 legacy wagon 2.2 EAT I have a parts car and I want to swap the lift gates. The hinges etc seem self explanatory. My question is on the electrical system. I need to disconnect the wiring from the body to the lift gate. Is there a plug somewhere that I can get to and just disconnect the plug and remove it and then plug it into my regular ride?

sounds like it didn't matter! Great

This^^^^

I understand. It's in an ad and its not near my house. I have a OBD2 scanner, but I would have to drive 6 hrs to check it.

Looking at a 96 legacy wagon, 2.2 automatic. Seller says, it runs fine after 10 minutes. and that the check engine light is on. Any ideas? Cost to fix it?

yeah , He said the paraffin in the crude would help seal it,, Don't know if its fact. maybe ill just google it. lol

HI, Just wondering if you guys do anything special as far as preventing rust. I dont think anyone undercoats their cars anymore. The salt tears up the vehicles underneath and the fenders and rockers. My dad would put crude oil in a pump garden sprayer and spray the underside of his work vehicles and he claimed success. Anyone else do this? Have another remedy you use?

Thank you! I did just what you said.. I had a neighbor help me with the crossover drivers side,, but I ran the lines just like you said and everything is working fine. I used compressions fittings under the seat. then a union on the line to connect two pieces to get over to the drivers side brakes. I fished the line up over the rear end cross member. I bled each line , didn't see bubbles anymore. I only bled the back two brakes (didn't do the right front left rear left front right rear method) as I don't think I ran the system dry. The brakes are working.

Thanks. When I drop the tank, anything I should be careful of? I know there are some with issues of the filler neck or something.. I'm at 204k miles and I don't want to break everything while I'm doing this..

Hi guys , digging up this old thread looking for advice . 1996 legacy wagon, 2.2, AWD Automatic. Brake pedal went to the floor today all of a sudden. Nursed it home. Found the region of the leak. Its on a hardline,, from the right passenger side rear wheel. The fluid flows down the side of the gas tank, I cant see where the heck the lines go. Any advice is appreciated. I never did brake lines before. My neighbor has, and he will adivse me... but I gotta get on the ground and work underneath. My plan is either 1. drop the tank and try to tie in to the other line in an accessible area with a union or something.. or 2. Run an all new line under the car somewhere and try to tie it in ,, again in an accessible area with a union. I can read my hanes manual, but again I never did this before. Thanks for any help or advice in advance. John Marietta OH