xdeadeye1

specifically the joint by the rotor in the first picture. Just above the caliper.. Looks like it should move or slide left to right.. But that thing isn't going anywhere.

Regardless ng breaking power. I was rotating my wheels. I took some pics. Calipers look pretty rusted. Given its a 18 yr old car I figure I'll probably just get new rotors pads and calipers. I'm kinda concerned about the suspension parts and how they're rusted. Let me know your thoughts

ok, thanks. The noise I hear goes totally away when I let off the gas. It doesn't decelerate.

"always the front diff or cv axle inner joint that’s dry. " this is the same thing?

im afraid I don't understand. I know the cv axles and the boots seemed fine,, I can check them again. The Differential has fluid in it.

Rumble - I have yet to have a friend stand by the engine. It does it mainly on start up. for a second or so,, just when It turns over, then goes away. Yesterday I was on the highway and going about 72-74 using cruise control. As it went down the hill and the acceleration was off, I felt a rumbly bump by my feet. under the floor. You may be right about some mount or other. IDK. I had the engine out and the bottom engine mounts seemed ok. Knock/Tick - I definitely notice this on acceleration . If I let off I don't hear it. I was driving next to the jersey barrier with the window down and could hear it pretty plainly. I found knock sensors on ebay for like $8.25 shipped!! wow.

Well the Trans fluid is up to the right level, and I had just done a empty and fill / cheapo flush with 5 qt jug. I have no transmission issues while driving , no slippage. Ill be sure and bleed the brakes well, and check the movement of the calipers etc. I just wasn't sure if maybe there was a disfuctional valve that might be causing problems to the rear.

Had the engine out , did the heads and timing belt , et all. about 2 months ago. Runs fine, Has a tick to it when im going up a hill , acceleratinig,, then it dies down. Tick meaning I think its valve tick. BUt I had sent my heads to a shop for machining and I think he went over valves too. So Idk what that's about. 2. On start up, It has a rumble to it. About 25 % of the time I hear an actual thud. like something hitting the floorboard. But it starts and runs fine. 3. Especially if its been sitting, after I start it, and put it in reverse,, I back up. Then it takes about 5 secs before it actually engages in drive. I don't hit the gas during this time,, I just wait the weird lenth of time before I feel it engage after I shift into drive. 4. Breaking. It stops. But I feel like the front brakes are doing Everything. Just feels like I don't have enough braking power going on. Any suggestions of things I should look at or solutions to common issues ,, IS APPRECIATED! Thanks. John Marietta, OH

it also makes us really appreciate south and western used cars...

well I dug in to the side of the salvage car and found the butt connector, by the wheel well area took the hose from there along with the connector. After I hung the hatch I didn't want to dig into the side of my car, so I cut existing hose up near where it goes thru the grommet and into the upper hatch... I joined the two hoses with the connector I got. It should really be working,, I cant believe the holes could be plugged in my new hatch.... idk,, ill play with it.

lol,, well yes and no... Most works fine. The rear cargo light isn't coming on,, but I'm not sure the bulb isn't burnt out. I gotta figure out how to get that weird bulb out. The rear washer isn't coming out. I been laying on the button,, thinking maybe it just takes time,, but not sure why its not working lights and latch work fine. The wiper motor works,, but is a little noisier than the old one...

Update. I went to salvage yrd. I got the same exact color ,,and in nice shape. (whole hatch) for $85 plus tax. Guy took it out and I watched him. went home Put it on today took me about a half hour or so in total. there abouts.. The wire I was worried about was no worry at all. The hatch harness plugs in at the bottom of the rear interior pillar, accessible by a plastic plug door. The 1996 legacy was very different from this. 2000 model. Its wiring is much tighter.. that's why I was worried. Anyway, I have an extra hatch now.. with out a glass window. Salvage yrd wanted $50 for a new head light.. I passed, sounds high to me.

heartless, I hear ya. I can get the whole hatch for 85 but not sure the condition. I'm NERVOUS about that wiring harness and fishing it down thru the pillar etc. If the hatch is ok,, I can do it,, its the wiring that concerns me.. Can you put my mind at ease about that? its a 2000 outback

I called them.. I have liability,,and they said its not covered.. I asked, and homeowners didn't cover either.. I have one more glass company to call (local ) to see if they will do it.

I found a hatch in a yard . So it may even have same paint , not confirmed. Is the 2000 outback hatch fairly easy to swap out?

So if you followed my other threads,, you know I just put gaskets and timing belt on my 2000 Outback. Its back in the car and running like a top. BUT yesterday I start my mower and sent a small rock and hit my back hatch back glass. (outback Wagon) Its shattered. Called safelite, they want $460 to replace with new glass They don't mess with salvage yard stuff. I can go get a hatchback from another car........ but I'm not sure I want that . I woiuld rather get the hatchback,, pull the glass and replace mine. Any of you care to give suggestions? What wouild you do? I'm in S.E. Ohio. Thanks

manifold threads is what I meant.. I just was meaning I cant get the stud started up in the hole of the exhaust manifold/ head. and thank you very much

this is exactly where I had a problem, and wasn't sure if I put it back on correctly... Maybe just need to tighten the bolt more. What is the torque spec?

Update: So got it back together started and ran great. BUT when I shut it off I noticed a big leak from the top of the power steering banjo bolt thingy, I guess I need to just tighten it? The double copper washer clip is still on there. Am I missing an washer or something? Anyone know the torque number I should tighten to? Hanes book doesn't specify. ALSO. I think I buggered the starter threads in one of the exhaust manifold bolt holes. I'm thinking I need to run a tap up in there. I have a cheapo tap kit, but none of the metric taps or dies seem to fit my stud or nut. Anyone have the correct number for that? Suggestion on where I can get just ONE tap? Don't want to buy a whole kit.

thank you very much!!

putting engine back together after head gasket replacement, engine is out of car 2000 outback wagon 2.5 SOHC First I put the water pump back on. I forgot to put on this little skinny rubber insert on the side of the pump. It abuts the oil pump. It leaves a gap but I don't see it as a huge problem. Second: I just got the timing belt back on.. I notice two bolt holes above the crank shaft. This is for some little bracket that guards the top of the crank sprocket. I don't remember taking it off of there. AND I cant find it anywhere. I think maybe the guy before me who did this job, didn't put it back on. I have been driving it this way. Can I leave it off too? Or do I need to stop operations and order this part? I'm going to resume work tomorrow,, so I hope you guys know what I should do.

2) Tighten cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N·m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. Then tighten all bolts to 69 N·m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again. (4) Tighten bolts (a) and ( to 34 N·m (3.5 kgf-m, 25 ft-lb). (5) Tighten bolts ©, (d), (e) and (f) to 15 N·m (1.5 kgf-m, 11 ft-lb). (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence

Need some help here. I followed the torque sequence and got down to where I do the corner bolts at 11 FPs well,, that's about the lowest setting on this torque wrench. I started turning them and couldn't feel the torque wrench "CLICK" so I kept going and realized this isn't right. I thought I kept missing it,, so I kept doing the corner bolts in order. All with the same damn result. I have an inch lb wrench I should have switched to.. but I didn't. So what should I do next..? Back off all the bolts ALL OF THEM and start over? Back off the corner bolts a few turns and then turn them to 11 FPS with the inch lb torque wrench? (yes I can do the conversion to FPS) If I do this, is my head gasket ruined ? The center 2 bolts were done fine. no issues.. But I'm afraid my corner bolts are all over torque. Recommendations?